Codes: P0483, P1757, & P0868 - Help or guidance appreciated

[dlg449]

Hi All,

I'm hoping someone one here has some experience with these codes.
This is for a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500. Miles a little over 172,000.

Starting on 1/28/25 the check engine light came on in the evening on the drive home.
The truck came with a tuner already installed; I don't use it for anything outside reading the codes.
Codes: P0483- Cooling Fan Clutch & P1757- Governor Pressure Sensor/Solenoid
Checked some tips on YouTube, noticed the coolant was a little low from recently adding some earlier in December. Topped it off and cleared the codes.

Next morning the only code that came back was the P1757.
Scheduled a diagnostic with a recommended mechanic.
The replaced the Governor pressure sensor and solenoid. Changed the transmission fluid as it showed signs of being burnt and put in a new filter.

Next day code: Only after getting it on the highway and accelerating, the check engine light came back on.
Checked, and had a new code- P0868- Governor harness. The truck had some lag in initial movement but once it started going the acceleration was fine.

Called mechanic/scheduled to get it back in for another diagnostic. They replaced the harness solenoid.
Picked it up, drove to the nearest exit to the highway. Picked up speed and the check engine light came on.
Code-P0868.

Took back to the mechanic who ran multiple diagnostics on it without any success. Until they plugged in the tuner and then the check engine light came on. They had me dive it without it plugged in to see how it did.
As soon as I get on the highway and start accelerating, check engine light.

Took back to the mechanic who read the code and it's P0868.
He had some thoughts that initially they were seeing signs of pressure being too high. And now it's reading as pressure too low. He seemed to think that the tuner was trying to assist by raising pressure and mentioned that now he thinks the pump may need to be replaced and recommended me to a Transmission Shop as they don't do pumps.

In the meantime, I watch the acceleration & rpms and slowly gain speed. I've noticed that there seems to be more effort to get up to 40. Once there it seems easier, but that seems to be the initial hurdle.

I have an appointment for next week but did not like the initial conversation with the guy. I have another that I'm planning to call on Monday.

Is it the pump like my mechanic thinks or have you seen something similar before with a different solution?

Help is much appreciated.

 

[Ozymandias]

Well with the burnt fluid it's probably gone. This transmission don't burn the fluid if they are in proper working order.

Did you check the proper fluid level yourself? Engine running, shifter on N.

 

[dlg449]

Well with the burnt fluid it's probably gone. This transmission don't burn the fluid if they are in proper working order.

Did you check the proper fluid level yourself? Engine running, shifter on N.

I checked it after they changed it. Once cool and once warmed up and in neutral. It was fine.
The transmission shop mentioned that it was burnt as well. So, the new fluid has been burnt.
However, they also said that the front band is at its max adjustment and the lining of the band is gone, which could cause the fluid to burn. I asked on the other thread, your thoughts appreciated. Can a band be changed as the other gears and bands are fine? Or is it worth it to do an overhaul or look into a rebuilt transmission?

Thanks much.

 

[Ozymandias]

You can put in a slip in band by yourself which works without dropping the Trans. That can extend the life of the transmission. Was the band ever adjusted during the time you owned the vehicle, milage?

 

[Ozymandias]

The point for the overhaul is clear, shops do not use slip-in bands. And if you drop the transmission and disassemble it, which you have to do for the normal band, then you overhaul it completely.
With all the work that has to be done to change the band you don't stop there, you make it right.

 

[dlg449]

The point for the overhaul is clear, shops do not use slip-in bands. And if you drop the transmission and disassemble it, which you have to do for the normal band, then you overhaul it completely.
With all the work that has to be done to change the band you don't stop there, you make it right.

The band was not adjusted in the time that I've owned it. However, they have been replaced on preventative maintenance in the past. It makes sense that with all the work they need to do to get to that point to just overhaul. I was hoping to avoid getting into my savings at the moment.

 

[Ozymandias]

Do a slip in Band can be done in the drive way, all you need to do is drop the pan and drop the valve body for that. Pretty basic job.

You shouldn't drive anymore like it is now or it will leave you stranded at the side of the road with a nice tow bill.

 

[dlg449]

Do a slip in Band can be done in the drive way, all you need to do is drop the pan and drop the valve body for that. Pretty basic job.

You shouldn't drive anymore like it is now or it will leave you stranded at the side of the road with a nice tow bill.

Absolutely agree. It's not getting driven at the moment, I have no desire breaking down and getting towed.

 

[sag2]

It depends what your long term goal for the truck is. If you have it professionally rebuilt they are going to replace everything and it is going to be $5k+. You can make a temporary repair and slip in the band for $100. Or you can pull the transmission and replace just the band and possibly the drum for a few hundred. Or if you are handy you can replace clutches and seals and a reman converter for less than $1,000. The only thing you need to watch carefully on an RE is clutch clearances if you replace the frictions. Not adjusting properly will result in a clutch burning up in short order.

 

[dlg449]

It depends what your long term goal for the truck is. If you have it professionally rebuilt they are going to replace everything and it is going to be $5k+. You can make a temporary repair and slip in the band for $100. Or you can pull the transmission and replace just the band and possibly the drum for a few hundred. Or if you are handy you can replace clutches and seals and a reman converter for less than $1,000. The only thing you need to watch carefully on an RE is clutch clearances if you replace the frictions. Not adjusting properly will result in a clutch burning up in short order.

It's probably something I could research and figure out, but being in an RV park for work at this time is a little limiting from lack of tools and equipment.
I don't have a plan to buy another vehicle anytime soon, so I may as well take care of it now and ensure it runs great for daily use and eventually pulling my 5th wheel.

 

[sag2]

If the truck is clean, they are like gold. So investing $5k is probably well worth it.

 

[bigceltic]

It's probably something I could research and figure out, but being in an RV park for work at this time is a little limiting from lack of tools and equipment.
I don't have a plan to buy another vehicle anytime soon, so I may as well take care of it now and ensure it runs great for daily use and eventually pulling my 5th wheel.

You could also look at an already built unit and just swap them - there is a balance between parts and labour - when I looked to replace mine, I ended up going with a complete factory built (BD) unit as it was not much more than the cost I was quoted to rebuild my own unit and I was able to upgrade to full control with the Tapshifter.