Codes??

[Wheezy]

Oil and Codes??

1) How much oil should it take to complete a Filter/Oil change?? I changed mine today, and it took 3 full gallons of Rotella to get it in the "safe" range. I usually take it to the dealership, but since I have more time on my hands these days, thought I would just do it myself. Does it usually take this much?



After changing the oil, I started it up, let it run for a 30-45 seconds to make sure no leaks, I go back to turn it off, and the yellow engine light on the left hand side of the cluster is on. I checked the codes, and it is throwing 0107 and 0073, can anyone tell me what these are?

Thank you in advance



John

 

[CumminsBu]

3 gallons is right

P0073 Ambient Temperature Sensor High

P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Low



Here you go.

 

[RWarr]

OneBucsFan

Three gallons is one quart too much on mine. 10 in the pan and 1 in filter. The guys at the lube place can't seem to leave the last quart in the gallon jug even when I tell them to. It overfills mine and I'll have to go home and drain about a quart!



Codes - Did you happen to unplug the air flow sensor on your air intake box? Those codes and the check engine lamp and I'd be looking to see if I forgot to plug the wire back on at the air box.

 

[Wheezy]

I did start it up without the sensor plugged in, realized what I had done, put it back in, but now the light will not turn off. Will it go off after 7-10 starts, or do I need to use a code scanner?



Thanks,



John

 

[Bertram65]

You need 12 quarts when you change the oil and filter, the manual says 11 in the engine 1 in the filter. Check your manual it actually has pretty decent oil changing instructions.

 

[rbattelle]

I use a full 3 gallons and that takes me exactly to the "full" mark.



When you start the truck with the IAT sensor disconnected, you do set a code (as you know). People seem to do this a lot. The computer stores the code and it will continue to persist until you complete 40 consecutive warmup cycles (coolant temperature must start below 140 and move above 160, iirc) without the problem re-appearing. Then the light will go out and the code will disappear.

 

[RWarr]

John,

I should have been more specific about the oil capacity so I didn't confuse you the first time. The other posts are correct - the book calls for 3 gallons including one in filter. I don't know why mine has to be odd but that puts mine over the safe level! I checked the dipstick at the dealer lot with another dipstick they had and they read oil level the same. It is supposed to take twelve quarts but that will put me over the safe line and I quit worrying about it after the 3rd oil change - oh well.



Codes - I had the MIL (Check Engine) light come on for a turbo overboost code. I corrected the problem and the "light" went out after 3-5 duty cycles so I suspect yours will be out soon. ( I can't remember for sure how many because I was surprised it went off so fast. ) The codes themselves will still be stored for the 40 duty cycles I think. I'm having a terrible time with eliminating codes but the story is way to long for this post. I tried everything I knew possible to eliminate two codes. Handheld scanner, Laptop with Alex Peper software, and disconnect all batteries and turn ignition on for hours and the codes still showed up with the ignition cycle sequence. Dealer claims to only see one code (overboost). Dealer claims to have "cleared" code. Overboost code is STILL there with ignition sequence but I've only got one duty cycle which was drive home from dealer. The other code did vanish with the dealer visit but it was a cooling fan relay code. I'm hoping the other code goes away with enough duty cycles and I'm guessing that will be 40.



Hope your light is out by the time you read this!



Roger

 

[Wheezy]

Thanks for all the help guys. .



The reason I had a question on my oil, was because the Oil Pressure Guage was acting very funny after the change. Before I changed the oil, at idle, the guage was sitting about an 8th inch under the halfway mark, and when driving, it would be a little over an 8th inch, about the width of a pencil eraser-over the halfway mark- AFTER the change, at idle, it is sitting over the halfway mark, and then when driving, it goes up well past the next thick marker. (does any of this make sense???)



As for the Check Engine Light, it went out after about 5 startups-



Thanks again,





John Oo.

 

[rbattelle]

Your code is still in the computer, but the light is off. Eventually, the computer will erase the code.



As for the oil pressure gauge, it's not real, so any change in it that you're experiencing must be imagined. The oil pressure gauge on these trucks is a switch that is on for pressures between 6psi and 75 psi. The ECM makes the gauge needle dance "according to customer expectations". If you want to know what it really is, install an aftermarket gauge.