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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) cold starting questions

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Erratic Engine Temp

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This is my first winter season with a diesel and I find I need some basic questions answered. First of all it is a 1995 with no mods. Is it normal for it to require more than 1 staring sequence at arround -5c (20f). We are in New Brunswick and the weather is going to get much colder. When the wait to start light goes out if I continue to wait is the heater still heating. It sometimes take s 3-4 cycles of the heater, wait to start light, to get it to fire. When it does fire it starts quick and runs well. I am giving it some gas to start. Just cranking it and giving it gas does not seem to do anything. If it is going to start it will quickly. In warmer weather, even after sitting for 2 days, it starts immediately. I am running Amsoil 15-40 and find oil presure comes up very quickly. Batteries were checked an seem to be OK.

Appreciate your comments Ron
 
The heaters are only on when the wait to start light is on until the engine starts, then they may cycle off and on without the light. If it doesn't start you need to turn the key off and cycle again right away. They go off entirely if you go over some crazy number like 17 mph. If I don't plug in it takes 2-3 cycles of the heaters below 20 F, you've got no problem there. Most I've ever had to cycle was six times, 15 F below zero, truck not plugged in. Truck ran horrible for quite some time and the smoke about stopped traffic on a main highway, I couldn't even see though it to back up. Better to plug in below 10F if you can, saves on your batteries and grid heater system.
 
Fast idle helps

Ron:



Not sure is you have an auto or 5sp, but either way, I find my truck starts much quicker (immediately) when I keep my idle set at or above 850. I do not have to even wait for the heaters at 20 degrees. If starts fine just more white smoke. Heaters just clean up white smoke down to zero but are really needed below zero to aid starting. You might also consider using a winter fuel additive (stanadyne Performance formula, Power Service, or Howes). Many of these have additives that will help (slightly) winter starting as well as keep you from have to use #1 or even blend. If idle is at 800 or more already, something else (fuel shutoff soliniod, no load fuel screw adjustment, timing) could be off alittle delaying the start.



If you have access to straight #2 (big truck stop) instead of winterized, blended or straight #1, I would run it with additive below about 5F. I have had no troubles for 150K miles and 5 winters now down to -30F temps. #2 starts better, better mileage, just need to treat it below 5F. Once running you will not gell, it is only when it has sat in the cold as our trucks have a inline fuel heater. Once running warm fuel is returning to the tank to keep the fuel from cooling off (gelling). It will NOT ungell thick fuel... . that is what the additive is for.



When the engine is really cold, slight foot throttle presure will help as the idle is somewhat lower with a very cold engine. Also, you will have to have very good batteries to cycle the grids more then 2 or 3 times when temps are below -10. They take allot of juiece to run and leave little for the starter. That is why I make sure the idle is set to provide a quick start.



I also use Synthetic oil and because of it (quick oil presure) I do not idle. I start the truck wait for oil presure to stabilize and drive. No matter if it is 20F or -20F. If you have to idle (wife will not ride in a cold truck), carry a stick to jamb in between the seat and the foot throttle to keep your idle at 1200 - 1500. It will warm up quicker and keep things warm if you already have a warm engine.



Bottom line is to drive this like you would a gasser. The coolant runs very cool relative to a gasser but you should get plenty of cab heat. When running around town and never getting to highway speeds don' t expect coolant temps to get to or stay in the Normal range. Not a problem.



jjw

ND
 
:) Thanks for the good info. Really appreciate your reply. I was worried that cycling the heater more than once was indication of a more serious problem.

Do you try to start between cycles or automatically cycle it a few times in colder weather?
 
I automatically cycle it a few times in colder weather without trying to start in-between. After awhile you'll learn how many cycles your particular rig needs at different temps.
 
went in to cummins hq here in columbus when i bought my first diesel last year. they checked the grid heater. wasn't heating all the way across. checked the bolts on wheel well under the driver's battery and sure enough, they were loose. you need to tighten all of these bolts and plug in your beast at night.
 
Much appreciate your replys. Will be happy to cycle it a few times in colder weather and not worry further. Spends nights in garage, real pampered this year, but no plug ins at work. May have to figure something out for when it gets realy cold -20 etc. . Sneak a cord in the back door or something.

Been really happy with the truck. Looking to install gauges this winter to prepare for towing season and maybe look into TST upgrade in the summer.

Ron
 
Starting problems

My truck starts very hard in the cold, Then smokes like a mosquito abatement truck.

I think its the relay. I have power in the red wire in front but I can't get any at the preheater. Does this sound like a relay?

After I get this fixed, Does turning the key off and then back on make it hotter?

I park outside all day without a plug in. Can you recommend anything else to make it easier to start?

What are the pluses and minuses of either assist starting?

Thanks
 
Ether or any starting fluid for that matter is a huge no no for our trucks. If you're lucky enough to be around after it goes up you'd still have a huge pile of scrap on your hands. I think it has to do with the heating elements being outside the engine. The starting fluid lights and blows back though the intercooler making for a bad bad day. Hope this helps.

Dan
 
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