Has anyone else had a problem starting your truck when it is cold. My truck when the tempature is below 25 degrees will not even turn over. When I hit the starter the truck makes a whinning noise, and then on the next try the truck will usually fire right off. If the truck is pulged up I never have this problem. But now I am at college and cannot plug the truck up when it gets cold. I know there is an air intake sensor on the truck, could this be bad?? Any help would be greatly appricated. Thank you
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Cold Weather Starting Problem?
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Caleb, Please fill us in by what you mean by a whinning sound so we can help. Is the engine turning over or is it just the starter turning over? The starter by itself turning over will make a loud high speed, no load on it,whine. This would be caused by the starter solenoid not engaging into your engine's flywheel. Good luck! Herb
Caleg besides Herb's questions, basically the clarification of noise.
Your starter is not turning your engine the first time you crank it but does turn over the second time and cranks up right away.
1. Nothing to do with engine turning over but it would seem your intake heaters are working. What does your exhaust look like when it starts?
I believe your problem is one electrical, second mechanical.
1. Either your batteries are low on power or not enough power is getting to starter.
2. My question is what weight of oil are you using in engine? 15w-40 is great for warm weather operation, but I would think that at 25 degrees this weight will make the starter work very hard to turn engine, if your using 10w-30 its not because of thick oil.
The second time you try battery output mite be a little more which gives the starter more power to turn over the engine. If you have allowed air intake heaters to cycle one more time this mite help thin oil, but more important I think it would help warm batteries up(energy=heat) increasing power flow to starter.
By plugging in coolant heater not only do you warm coolant but warm up oil,engine and engine bay.
I used to run 20w-50 in Ford van at low 30's it would crank real slow.
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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)
Your starter is not turning your engine the first time you crank it but does turn over the second time and cranks up right away.
1. Nothing to do with engine turning over but it would seem your intake heaters are working. What does your exhaust look like when it starts?
I believe your problem is one electrical, second mechanical.
1. Either your batteries are low on power or not enough power is getting to starter.
2. My question is what weight of oil are you using in engine? 15w-40 is great for warm weather operation, but I would think that at 25 degrees this weight will make the starter work very hard to turn engine, if your using 10w-30 its not because of thick oil.
The second time you try battery output mite be a little more which gives the starter more power to turn over the engine. If you have allowed air intake heaters to cycle one more time this mite help thin oil, but more important I think it would help warm batteries up(energy=heat) increasing power flow to starter.
By plugging in coolant heater not only do you warm coolant but warm up oil,engine and engine bay.
I used to run 20w-50 in Ford van at low 30's it would crank real slow.
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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)
Mule, When the truck is first started it will smoke about the first minute or so, and it will take it a while to get up to full power just where it is cold. I have been running 15W-40 XD3 heavy duty diesel engine oil made by Exxon and at my next oil change I will try the 10W-30. I appricate your input.
Caleb, According to my Dodge manual, It says that if the starter motor spins but no engine cranking, then the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter will need to be replaced. Before you do that, I would make sure all connections are clean and that the starter isn't loose from the bellhousing. Diesel starters aren't cheap. If you need a new one, post on this Web site and get some advice on the cheapest place to buy one. The sensor you asked about turns on your heater grid to warm the air in the intake manifold to ease the starting process. I'm not sure why very cold air would affect your starter except the metal contracts when it is cold and expands when warmer which could cause connection problems. This whinning left too long could damage your gears on your flywheel from not fully engaging so be careful! Maybe a starter pro will answer your inquiry soon. Good Luck! I hope I helped. Herb
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'96 4x4 Dodge Cummins Truck,Smitty built running boards,AT,CD plr,Gemtop steel canopy basically stock and Polar white in color. Only 50 k miles and I'm spaying my cat soon and adding gauges, plates and other money grabbers!!
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'96 4x4 Dodge Cummins Truck,Smitty built running boards,AT,CD plr,Gemtop steel canopy basically stock and Polar white in color. Only 50 k miles and I'm spaying my cat soon and adding gauges, plates and other money grabbers!!
Caleb, The oil you are using has nothing to do with how the starter works except that it will crank slower as it get colder. I've had no problem starting at 12 degrees using 15w40 Rotella. Yes, it cranks a little slow and runs a little rough for a minute at 12 degrees but you don't need to run different oil unless you're at these temps all winter!
You don't show a signature so we don't know how old your batteries are, but your problem it most likely electrical. Check your batteries, check and clean all connections (even those that look clean and don't forget the battery and selonoid connections on the starter), and if that doesn't work it's likely the starter.
Another unlikely possibility is the key switch. There is a recall out on a wiring problem that could cause the switch to overheat and this could cause intermittent poor contact.
If you buy a starter, shop around. Rebuilt Nippondenso starters run between $150 and $350 for the same unit. (I bought one a O'Reilly's with a lifetime guarantee)
Hope this helps... ...
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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
108,000 miles and counting.
You don't show a signature so we don't know how old your batteries are, but your problem it most likely electrical. Check your batteries, check and clean all connections (even those that look clean and don't forget the battery and selonoid connections on the starter), and if that doesn't work it's likely the starter.
Another unlikely possibility is the key switch. There is a recall out on a wiring problem that could cause the switch to overheat and this could cause intermittent poor contact.
If you buy a starter, shop around. Rebuilt Nippondenso starters run between $150 and $350 for the same unit. (I bought one a O'Reilly's with a lifetime guarantee)
Hope this helps... ...
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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
108,000 miles and counting.
Caleb
Sounds like it's defenetly electrical. Go back to step one.
1. Starter spins but doesn't engage engine.
This is caused by your solinoid not engaging the bendix into the flywheel. About the only things that can cause this are;
A. Low Power. Batteries good?? Connections good? cables good? you get the idea... .
B. Sticking Solinoid. Due to rust, dirt or just being worn out. The grease (or lack of) on the pivot point (pin) can also have a effect on the movement of the solinoid/bendix.
C. External Damage. Caused by something hitting the housing (very unlikly), or
if you've been doing some off roading and the
starter and solinoid have been submerged in muddy water. Muddy water and starters dont mix.
If the truck were mine, I'd remove the starter and disassemble completely, clean,
check for anything abby-normal, lube and reassemble. Good luck.
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97 2500, extcab, 4x4. BFG 285/85/16 AT, "warmed over" pump, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, BD gov. spring seats only, 370 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil & transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)
Sounds like it's defenetly electrical. Go back to step one.
1. Starter spins but doesn't engage engine.
This is caused by your solinoid not engaging the bendix into the flywheel. About the only things that can cause this are;
A. Low Power. Batteries good?? Connections good? cables good? you get the idea... .
B. Sticking Solinoid. Due to rust, dirt or just being worn out. The grease (or lack of) on the pivot point (pin) can also have a effect on the movement of the solinoid/bendix.
C. External Damage. Caused by something hitting the housing (very unlikly), or
if you've been doing some off roading and the
starter and solinoid have been submerged in muddy water. Muddy water and starters dont mix.
If the truck were mine, I'd remove the starter and disassemble completely, clean,
check for anything abby-normal, lube and reassemble. Good luck.
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97 2500, extcab, 4x4. BFG 285/85/16 AT, "warmed over" pump, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, BD gov. spring seats only, 370 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil & transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)
The Starter was put on new about October of 1999. It was bought new from Napa. When the batteries were replaced could the wrong batteries have been put in, and this not give the truck enough power to turn over. What size are your all's batteries? How much power do they register before the truck is started. Mine shows about 8-10 before the truck is started and then will go to about 12-16. Thanks
STOP THE MADNESS!!!
Sorry, had to say that.
#ad
bigkavr wins the prize!
The batteries start the truck on the second try so they aren't too discharged to do the job. (But you should periodically top off level with distilled water and then drive it enough to fully charge them back up to keep from freezing if it gets that cold. ) If the batteries didn't have enough oomph (oomph?)
#ad
to engage the drive the first time, they will have less the second time. There are isolated possibilities where there is the coincidence of dieing batteries AND a sticky drive but since this appears to be repeatable, it is very doubtful that it is the case here.
I suspect the drive is, as bigkavr (what does that mean anyway?
#ad
) suggested, dirty or sticky.
Disconnect the grounds for both batteries, disconnect the wires, remove the starter, and inspect the drive area. Sometimes things aren't lubed properly from parts houses (although NAPA is my #1 choice for quality parts). If you can discern the problem (dirt, corrosion, ice) and correct it, stick it back on and try it. If all looks OK, take it to a rebuilder in your area and have the problem fixed insted of buying a whole new starter. Much cheaper.
Oh yea, welcome to TDR.
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'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 11-23-2000). ]
Sorry, had to say that.
#adbigkavr wins the prize!
The batteries start the truck on the second try so they aren't too discharged to do the job. (But you should periodically top off level with distilled water and then drive it enough to fully charge them back up to keep from freezing if it gets that cold. ) If the batteries didn't have enough oomph (oomph?)
#adto engage the drive the first time, they will have less the second time. There are isolated possibilities where there is the coincidence of dieing batteries AND a sticky drive but since this appears to be repeatable, it is very doubtful that it is the case here.
I suspect the drive is, as bigkavr (what does that mean anyway?
#ad) suggested, dirty or sticky.
Disconnect the grounds for both batteries, disconnect the wires, remove the starter, and inspect the drive area. Sometimes things aren't lubed properly from parts houses (although NAPA is my #1 choice for quality parts). If you can discern the problem (dirt, corrosion, ice) and correct it, stick it back on and try it. If all looks OK, take it to a rebuilder in your area and have the problem fixed insted of buying a whole new starter. Much cheaper.
Oh yea, welcome to TDR.
------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 204,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 11-23-2000). ]
Caleb if your air intake hearters are not on. Your voltage meter should show 12 to 12 1/2 volts. Now if heaters kick on, the meter would drop to 8 volts. Your after start figure looks OK.
How much smoke? A whole lot(like having your own fog machine) or a little(you can see whats behind you in right side mirror)?
I have had vehicles that the battey didn't crank starter first time but the second time it turn the starter and engine over, usually in cold weather. I also have left lights on inside or out. Ran the battery down to the point the starter would grunt a little. Would leave it alone for hour or two come back and it crank right up.
If the starer motor is turning then the solenoid is working. That leaves why is it not engaging first time. Low power(great idea to check/clean all connections/wires from battery to starter, power and grounds) or mechanical.
How much smoke? A whole lot(like having your own fog machine) or a little(you can see whats behind you in right side mirror)?
I have had vehicles that the battey didn't crank starter first time but the second time it turn the starter and engine over, usually in cold weather. I also have left lights on inside or out. Ran the battery down to the point the starter would grunt a little. Would leave it alone for hour or two come back and it crank right up.
If the starer motor is turning then the solenoid is working. That leaves why is it not engaging first time. Low power(great idea to check/clean all connections/wires from battery to starter, power and grounds) or mechanical.
extreme1 is right it is most likely the starter drive. If it only clicked or turned over slowly it would most likely be a battery or conection problem. sometimes the solenoid will do this but most I have seen has been the starter drive.
[This message has been edited by Tman (edited 11-23-2000). ]
[This message has been edited by Tman (edited 11-23-2000). ]
Could it be your not waiting long enough for the prestart heater to kick off? If this is the case the heater has pulled the amperage down as indicated to around 8 amps so the starter would be starved for power. Three ways to check (1)wait to start engine light on dash is out(2) volt meter returns to 12 volts(3) a clicking sound can be heard when (1) and(2) occur. Hope this is all that it is. The preheater pulls a lot of juice.
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Stephen's 1995 Dodge Cumming Automatic 3500 in Sanger CA. Pulling 35 Foot 9600 lbs 5th wheel. BD fuel plate 230HP,Air Filter Boot Removed, Vibrating Mirrors, Screaming Tubro
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Stephen's 1995 Dodge Cumming Automatic 3500 in Sanger CA. Pulling 35 Foot 9600 lbs 5th wheel. BD fuel plate 230HP,Air Filter Boot Removed, Vibrating Mirrors, Screaming Tubro
Caleb
White smoke during cold weather is normal,its water in exhaust system being blown out. The reason I asked some where I read if your air intake heaters are not working a big cloud of white smoke will come out and hang around until air(in cylinder) is warm enough to burn fuel efficiently.
What you stated in post seems normal.
Battery I would say 500 to 600 amps OK, but you can go higher 720 amps. The Optima batteries start at 800 amps. The Optima Red top is what I'm using(800 amps), if you buy from Interstate Batteries excellent warranty.
White smoke during cold weather is normal,its water in exhaust system being blown out. The reason I asked some where I read if your air intake heaters are not working a big cloud of white smoke will come out and hang around until air(in cylinder) is warm enough to burn fuel efficiently.
What you stated in post seems normal.
Battery I would say 500 to 600 amps OK, but you can go higher 720 amps. The Optima batteries start at 800 amps. The Optima Red top is what I'm using(800 amps), if you buy from Interstate Batteries excellent warranty.
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