Coming over from the "Dark Side"....

[Jfoster]

For those of you that follow Ford-Diesel.com, you may reconize the subject of the post. I am a current convert to the Cummins, from the PSD. Although I know quite a bit about the PSD, my knowledge is limited on the Cummins. I've been "lurking and Searching" TDR for a few weeks now so I've already learned a lot. For my first round of stupid questions: My Ram has about 300 miles on it, any hints for break it? Do you guys use additive like Stanadyne Performance formula? How about cool down times in daily drives? (I don't have my Pyro yet)Well, I don't want to wear out my welcome on my first post, so that's it for now. Thanks for the info, and I'm hoping My shiny new RAM provides me with a long life! #ad
#ad


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2001. 5 4X4 HO Quad Cab 6 spd LWB, all the normal toys

 

[Runaway]

Welcome.

Break in -- put a load on her and go.

Cool down just driving in town -- minute or so to be safe. Don't think it is necessary just in town.

Additives -- don't use any, no help from me on the subject.

Others will chime in though!

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"01" Forest Green QC/LB ETH/DEE,4x4, 3. 54LSD, VDO (boost, pyro) Westin SS Nerf Bars and Grill Gaurd, Delta tool box, K&N.
00 28' Jayco 5th Wheel, 86 "Classic 16" Alumacraft, 00 Honda Rancher

 

[Joe G.]

A BIG welcome to a convert! The best way to break in a Cummins is to work it! Don't baby the beast or the rings and other stuff just won't seat right. I took mine on a 10K trip when it had 1000 miles on it with a 10' camper. It's got a 160K on it now and runs better than it did when it was new. It still starts right up the first thing in the morning, no messing around. Cool down depends on what you were doing. If you just pulled Donner with a 10K trailer and stopped at the rest stop on top, cool for at least five minutes. If you just cruised down the street let the turbo spin down (five seconds) and turn it off. Just use your best judgement until you get a pyro.

Glad to have you!

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Big K]

Howdy! I was taught that if you want it to run hard, break it in hard, within reason, of course. Avoid extended periods at same rpm. That shouldn't be hard with the local traffic these days. Good to put a load on it. Enjoy!

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'99 2500 QC 4x4 Auto 4:10
'01 Durango SLT+
Eric

 

[BCFAST]

The boys are right about the break-in... . I use Stanadyne every-other tank.

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, Green, #12 plate slid all the way forward, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!

 

[willyslover]

Jfoster. . Welcome to TDR. . there is a great group up there ... don't have a link but one of them will pop up very soon... join up with one of their BOMBing days and get to know more than you would ever need to know and then some #ad
#ad
. . they will welcome you !!!

 

[Lordsman]

JFoster,
Look up fuel additives in TDR issue#30,
page 12. Your injector pump is the heart of your truck. Make sure you keep it clean, and dry(no water). Recommend treatment of fuel at each fill up. Stanadyne rates real well on detergent,pour point(low temp flow and cold filter plugging),lubrication( raised sulfer), and cetane(power). Also, the fuel filter rating should be 2 microns, no higher. I change mine between 7,500-10,000
miles. Fill up at reputable station, that sell a lot of diesel(fresh fuel is clean fuel). Enjoy you truck!


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99 2500SLT,QC,4x4,6-spd,3. 5 lsd,LB,Camper group ,Rhino liner,Airlift 5000 airbags,Redline hitch,Tekonsha brake control,Diamomd plate bed rails,Dodge grill & splash guards.

 

[Jfoster]

Thanks for all the "welcomes". Guess I better go drive... DANG! I plan on getting about 2000 varied miles on it and then hook up the trailer (7500 loaded) and take a trip across a couple mountain passes. "load em up and run em hard"
Great truck, Great Engine. Thanks Guys, bear with me for a few weeks until I work my way up the learning curve. These are quite a bit "different" #ad
than the PSD.

 

[John_P]

jfoster:

Welcome to the TDR Website!

I have used the "Stanadyne Diesel
Performance Formula" for a long time
now. I have had very good luck with
it and feel that it helps the engine
due to the "sub-standard" fuel that is
out there right now.

I wish you well on the ownership of your
new Dodge. I hope you have the same
reliability that I have had with mine.

Take care.

--------
John_P

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Major Pump Mods(By "Scheid Diesel") 370 Diamond B Injectors, Gov. Spring kit, AFC Spring kit, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit,Psychotty Air Filter, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, BD Pressure Loc, Isspro Gauges, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

[Whitmore]

jfoster,welcome my friend,all coments are right on so far,the only other thing I may add is to get your oil changed at 1500 to 2000,on a new engine you will get high iorn from all the moving parts seating in and you will also get high silicon(dust or dirt) this comes from the inside of the engine as it cant be dust free,also comes from peoples fingers and hands at the factory,my first readings were ok other than iorn72 and silicon87, my big mistake is I didnt change the oil until 5,000 miles. also buy you a MAG PLUG to installe on your first oil change,you will be surprised as to how much filings will be on there each iol change,my 02 worth Kevin,happy rammin #ad


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2001 eth dee,qc,lwb,3. 55,camper and tow pkg,driftwood,cummins e-brake,jardine 4" exhaust,dz alum checker run boards,bed rail,tailgate protector,better built alum checker toolbox with home made fuel tank under box,"CUMN" licence plates and captain vol fire dept plate too

 

[Pete Peterson]

Okay, okay, if everybody else is doing it then me too, WELCOME!! #ad


Pete

 

[SA Law]

I have a question for you guys. everyone is saying that the best way to break in the engine is to haul something heavy. What if you have nothing to haul? Will this make the engine not last as long or affect my gas mileage? thx

P. S. Welcome aboard JFoster!
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Brian
2001. 5 2500 4x4 lwb, forest green, camper group, trailer tow group,travel convenience group, cass/cd/equal, 5spd,slt,LSD,3. 54,Shift-on-the-fly, Line-x bedliner, nerf bars

[This message has been edited by SA Law (edited 03-10-2001). ]

 

[mopars1]

S A, I am no expert on break-in on the Cummins, but, I don't haul very often and I seem to buy a new truck in the wintertime, so what I do is put 21 tubes of sand in the bed with a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top strapped down for the first 3000 miles or so. This adds up to about 1500 pounds. The truck knows its there at lower speeds. I think this does help some. I know it is better than no load at all. The fuel mileage will be helped right along as the engine breaks in. I have been told by the Cummins shop in my area that the engine will not be totally broken in until around 50,000 miles if there is never a good load put on the engine for many miles. I just have to take the techs word on this. Just my two cents worth.

 

[Missouri Mule]

SA Law
The Cummins likes to work, find yourself a load or trailer.

My Mule rather run down the road with a full load than without one and after it pulled a load it would run better. Unfortunatley
it doesn't work as hard as it used to.

You need to volunteer you and your truck's services; help family/friends/neighbors when moving there belongings to a new dwelling,or cement bags for new patio,lumber for new addition ... .

 

[Tom C]

Welcome, the manual says that final finish to the engine components are within the first 10,000 miles. manual also says to run it with a load. I only haul about once a month. so in the meantime i just run it hard and fast. your fuel milage wont be any good util after 10,000 anyway.

good luck.

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2001. 5 2500 4X4, QC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, SLT, SWB, Trailer, Camper & Snow plow Packages, White, 35k# Cody Hitch, 20' Gooseneck Lowboy flat-bed Trailer.

[This message has been edited by Tom C (edited 03-10-2001). ]

 

[DennyDay]

Welcome aboard --- let the fun begin!

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Denny
'99 2500 4X4 White short Q cab to much added to put here

 

[Shovelhead]

Welcome young Jedi to the CTD side of the force... .
After hanging around on this site for awile, your "bomb"ing training will begin.
Mucho info to be had, good people to get to know.

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Ed Anderson
99 3500,QC,Auto,4. 10,Everthing 'cept leather,stock until warranty runs out.
'76 H-D FLH, '98 FLHTCUI

 

[Pete Peterson]

S. A. your motor will break in just fine even if you don't tow very much, it will take it longer. The 10 thousand mile rule is mainly for those who wish to switch to a synthetic oil. They need to wait a minimum of 10 thousand miles. If you don't tow then it will take you 20 to 30 thousand mile to reach a proper break-in. What others have said far better than I is that this motor really responds to a heavy load right off the dealers lot, not required but prefered. Pete

 

[MikeR]

Welcome! I wish you could have brought jmbrowning with you over form the dark side! Hehe! Keep an eye on the "events" forum. The NW BOMBers get together almost once a month for projects and such. Next month (apr 21st) we are convoying up to Dyno Day in Abbotsford B. C.

-Mike

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'00 2500,QC,4wd,LWB,Dark Garnet,6spd,3. 54lsd,SLT,DD stage II,Psychotty air,10-level PM3,Jacobs ebrake,Isspro pyro & boost gauges,2wd-low,Airoquip fuel lines,Smittybilt nerfs,BFG 285/75 AT's
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'95 2500,Reg-cab,2wd,LWB,White/Driftwood,Automatic,3. 54open,SLT

 

[SA Law]

Thx for all the advice guys. Since i won't have any land or a trailer for a while, I guess I'll take Missouri Mules's advice and start volunteering my trucks services!

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Brian
2001. 5 2500 4x4 lwb, forest green, camper group, trailer tow group,travel convenience group, cass/cd/equal, 5spd,slt,LSD,3. 54,Shift-on-the-fly, Line-x bedliner, nerf bars