Comments on the RACOR LFS-802 / Oil Guard EPS-60 bypass filter?

[rweis]

I'm going to put a bypass filter on my 2002.



I know the two bypass filters listed (RACOR LFS-802 / Oil Guard EPS-60) are for larger engine sumps than ours, but the filter medium is also much larger, can absorbe more water, has a llittle higher flow rate.



I would like any comments pro or con.



Thanks,



Bob Weis

 

[MKinner]

Hey Bob, you can check out my pics, i've got that system on my truck. if you want, we could get together sometime and i could show you what i did. So far i really like it. I haven't done any oil sampling yet, just switched to Amsoil.

 

[rweis]

Exactely what I had in mind!



I have re-routed all my metal water heater lines to Gates hoses and took out all the metal lines so I can go directly into the top of the oil filter housing with a straight fitting. Provides a lot more room around the manifold and oil filter area.



However the concept remains the same - CLEAN oil, REALLY CLEAN oil -



Thanks for the reply,



We'll have to get together some time, that would be fun.



Bob Weis

 

[LightmanE300]

Rweis the only concern I can see you having is supporting the weight. Especially that monster size, when filled with oil, will be REALLY heavy. Assuming you build a bracket or come up with a sturdy mount location, I don't see an issue. I will say this - I had an oilguard system on my last vehicle, and the elements are a royal pain in the butt to change. You have to unthread the bottom of the metal cannister which can be hot, then grab the nasty/dirty/oily filter element with your hand(while it's dripping everywhere) and unthread it from the top/cap. Reverse and you're good. Even with a bag and much caution, it's hard not to spill oil. After having that setup I swore up and down I'd get an amsoil next time with the spin on filters and am glad I did. The oil analysis results are no different from amsoil/oilguard and the spin-on filters make it really easy. If you do decide to go with the amsoil dual kit (I don't think using the huge size bypass will make any substantial difference), TDR member CPFF/John Strenkowski makes a battery box mount for 2nd gens.

 

[rweis]

I have been thinking of the mounting too. Everyone seems to MOUNT it and then try to change the filter sometime later. I am thinking of a removeable type mounting to hold it securly (maybe even horizontally) then loosen the mounting clamps so you can remove it from its "normal" position so you can get to it / hold it in a position you can work with it to change it.



I am leaning toward the RACOR bypass filter. I think the OilGuard system is a RACOR system, but I am leaning toward the true RACOR system. Parker has been around a really long time and have a complete product line. Another reason I am leaning toward the RACOR LFS-802 is it is a large heavy truck filter and should be part of the product line for a while. True it is oversized for our trucks, but I think longevity of replacements is a good bet.



I am thinking of the larger filter so it will have more filter medium and will keep the oil cleaner over the same change interval.



As far as I can tell, oil sampling is the only way to accurately tell change intervals. I have read a good bit on oil composition, but still am very new at this.



Depending on oil analysis every 5k: I am researching changing the full flow filter at 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k; changing the bypass filter at 10k, 20k; changing the synthetic oil at 20k with makeup oil every filter change. I might even draw a gallon of oil out at 10k just to renew the additive package and other chemical characteristics. Drawing a gallon out plus changing the filters will probably actually change about 1/2 the total oil volume.



I do appreciate your input as I did not know the potential mess in doing the filter changing. Knowing that, I can put more thought into the mounting / filter changing system so it is as simple and "clean" as possible.



Bob Weis

 

[rweis]

Yep the down side of the RACOR is changing it. I have it securely mounted as far as the weight goes, but now it is time to change it. I know it is going to be a mess.



However I also have a steel 1/4 NPT bung and am going to weld that to the bottom so the next time I will drain the oil from the RACOR overnight, bag the screw on filter, and there should be considerably LESS mess.



Bad design on the RACOR without a drain fitting, so I am adding a 1/4 NPT drain fitting.



BTW I was at the Tampa RV show this weekend and found the RACOR booth and asked WHY there was not a drain fitting? Salesperson had NO idea "but they have been making them this way for many years", does not make it right.



Bob Weis

 

[blacksheep4x4]

I would go with Amsoils dual bypass system. easy to work with not bulky and high quality parts.

 

[Diesel Power]

on a filtering scale of microns the amsoil bypass leads the field, according to donaldson and amsoil. it filters less than 1/3 of a micron , awsome results in my book :-laf

 

[rweis]

When you speak of filtering levels you have to include the % level it does that at.



1/3 um at 99% GREAT

1/3 um at 1% not so good



Like the OEM filter I think filters down to the 10 um level but at like 5%. 30um is at something like 85%.



These numbers are not accurate, just as an illustration.



The filtration size and % level is very hard data to come by. Most advertising is by size because the % is very low. When you get both numbers then you have the whole picture.



And of course what is the risk? If the bearing system will easily pass 3um without damage, what is the point of 1/3 um?



Risk / reward / cost.



Bob Weis

 

[AMassaro]

Probably overkill but I run the Oilguard and feed it into a Motorguard(tp filter). I want really, really clean oil... Oo.

 

[Diesel Power]

1/3 of a micron at 75% and 3 micron at 100% . sorry about not puting that in before now! :-laf

 

[rweis]

1/3um @ 75%, pretty decent. Will it filter the soot out? I think soot in the oil is sub micron, but I do not know exactley where in the submicron range it is though.



The RACOR will not filter the soot out.



Bob Weis



The soot thing is really a visual thing I think. I change a quart out every 1k and I can generally see through the oil on the dipstick. If I can not, then I swap 2 quarts / 1k until I can. Keeps the additive / chemical packages up really high. I change the OEM filter every 5k and do a total oil change @ 15k (about 1 / yr). Mobile 1 SUV & Truck. My objective is not how far you can go, but how well the oil is taken care of.

 

[Diesel Nut]

It won't filter out the soot, but it will take quite a bit longer for the soot to show up in your oil. I had a dual filter bypass on my 02 and it took alot longer for the oil to turn black compared to with a full flow oil filter only. Nice, clean kit, too. Check em out - https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/bf.aspx

 

[amsoilman]

When you speak of filtering levels you have to include the % level it does that at.



1/3 um at 99% GREAT

1/3 um at 1% not so good



Like the OEM filter I think filters down to the 10 um level but at like 5%. 30um is at something like 85%.



These numbers are not accurate, just as an illustration.



The filtration size and % level is very hard data to come by. Most advertising is by size because the % is very low. When you get both numbers then you have the whole picture.



And of course what is the risk? If the bearing system will easily pass 3um without damage, what is the point of 1/3 um?



Risk / reward / cost.



Bob Weis

The ELF-7349 "DONALDSON" FULL-FLOW filter that is available from AMSOIL has an efficiency rating of 98. 7 % @ 15 Micron and 50 % @ 7 Microns in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12. As a referrence, the Cummins OEM spec #10634 for efficiency is 59. 5 %. The same Cummins spec. #10634 calls for a capacity of 54 g (grams) and the Donaldson is over TWICE that @ 124 g (grams)!

Bottom line, this filter is a very good one!





Wayne

amsoilman