Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Con OFE and 370's installed

[#crnxr]

Had a local shop install the 13" Southbend Con OFE last week so I took the opportunity on Saturday to install new 370 injectors from Piers. I made an injector puller from pvc pipe with a washer and nut (will post a pic for those interested). The shop that installed the clutch also put in the medium AFC spring. Problem is that I have almost no smoke except the real light haze at idle and responsiveness is marginal. Seems like I've got a flat spot in the power between 8 and 11 lbs. of boost. When boost goes over 11 then she takes off real quick I've turned the starwheel about 15 clicks towards the engine which helped. Should I be able to lay down smoke or break the tires loose?



edit: I don't think I have any boost leaks since I can eventually get it up to 35 or so lbs. Its difficult to get EGT's above 1000* pre-turbo (unloaded).



-Kyle

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

With 370's. and a #10, I can't even get traction in 2nd or 3rd gear due to smoking tires, and the smoke from the exhaust is like a freight train. My boost will jump up to 35+ almost instantly. Make sure your AFC housing is all the way forward, and turn the starwheel all the way forward. You should see lots of smoke, both from the wheels, and the exhaust.



Jim

 

[#crnxr]

So I moved the #10 plate about 80% forward and the AFC housing full forward today in hopes of getting more low end power. It helped a lot, but doesn't feel much stronger than just the #10 plate before the injectors went in. Governor arm seems to hit the plate right at or maybe . 030 below the bottom lip. Could it be low fuel pressure? Still can't spin the tires. ???



-Kyle

 

[Forrest Nearing]

that HX40 might be why you're not breaking traction...



when I had the stock turbo, 370's, and #6 full forward, I'd spin the tires hard in 2nd...



went to an HX40-16 and #0 plate full forward, and the slower spooling turbo brought my bottom end traction back, picked up 3lbs of boost, and pulled like nuts up top.



I'm surprised you're not smoking more... my junk will stop 3 lanes of traffic if I lay into it at w/ the right wind conditions (AFC housing and wheel full forward)



Forrest

 

[nfox]

Smoke

When you check the gov lever, it lever should hit the camplate right above the bottom lip or nose, make sure you are pulling up on the fuel shutoff, because that will make a difference. On your boost pressure you should be seeing 38 to 42 psi. Right after i got my pdr 40 i had low boost and Piers gave me the ok to install a boost elbow and that made a big difference, boost comes on faster and goes higher. With the #10 camplate that far forward and 370's you should have good black smoke and when boost comes on it'll clear up some. I would also check your fuel pressure, make sure you have atleast 20 psi at idle. Oo.

 

[#crnxr]

Thanks for the replies. Boost elbow is on there but there's no clamp on the boost line running from the elbow to the wastegate actuator. Is that normal? Seems like a strong run would pop the rubber hose off. I'll have the fuel pressure checked. New overflow valve is on its way from Piers and I am going to change the fuel filter also. Bottom end seems real weak. The rpm's come up quickly in 1st and 2nd gear but there's no grunt like when boost comes up in 3rd, 4th, or 5th.



-Kyle

 

[Forrest Nearing]

is the plate full forward? you might adjust the lever arm up a little to get into the fuel quicker.



Forrest

 

[Woodenhead]

I can't smoke em from a rolling start, need a little help from the brake or a little help from the clutch to get em loose. Like mentioned above it's most likely the slower spoolup of the 40. When I had the medium AFC spring in with the screw backed all the way off it smoked very little in the bottom end, once the boost built up it'd start to roll though. I didn't like the sluggish low end with the medium spring so I put in the light one. Now with the plate full forward, light spring and screw backed all the way off things seem about right in the bottom end and plenty smokey (easy to control with right foot).



Mike

 

[#crnxr]

Mike, that's exactly what it feels like. Very faint smoke and grunt until the end of 3rd gear (about 2800 rpm). Can't wait to get to 4th gear . Problem is I'm doing 40 before the power comes on. Makes it tough to have fun around town. The plate is almost all the way forward, AFC housing is full forward, and starwheel is turned all the way towards the engine (backed off). Looks like the starwheel is bottoming out against the housing. Is that right?



Got up to 38 lbs. tonight at about 3/4 throttle up a steep hill. EGT's top out at 1050* in 4th gear. Think I might adjust the lever up slightly and have the lighter spring put back in. Better to have the power available than to not have it when a Furd or Chevy come calling.



Thanks again.



-Kyle

 

[Woodenhead]

FYI I never adjusted my lever. I did check it and it doesn't catch on the bottom, seems to be fine from stock.

 

[#crnxr]

That's good to know about the lever. After some test drives it feels like the plate / governor arm are working correctly. Spools up quick after 10 lbs. boost. I think the low-end issue is mainly due to the stiffer AFC spring. I'm going on the dyno next Tuesday with the current setup. Might have the shop put the lighter spring in to see how managable the smoke is too. One thing's for sure; I'm learning more about this great engine every day.



-Kyle

 

[Woodenhead]

Who's Dyno are you using? I went to Dynomite Diesel Performance in Monroe a while back. Good guys and an excellent Dyno setup for diesels.



Mike

 

[#crnxr]

I went to DDP in Monroe also. Just got it done yesterday.



Dyno Results



Great service, fair prices, and a bunch of knowledge that they're willing to share.



Still getting a little stumble in 2nd gear above 2000 rpm before its warmed up all the way. I'm going to try to check the governor arm this weekend.



-Kyle

 

[Woodenhead]

Your actuals = 424. 9hp & 885tq.

Mine = 425. 6hp and 895. 5.



Looking at your sig. we have almost the exact same setup and same numbers on the same dyno. Couldn't find a more direct comparison if ya tried . I had my #10 full forward and was burning winter blend fuel.



Mike

 

[#crnxr]

Good to see you had the same numbers. Ok, maybe slightly higher.



How are your EGT's? I have a tough time hitting 1100* unloaded. Hypothetically speaking what would be the next step up for a fuel plate?



-Kyle

 

[Woodenhead]

Next step up for a fuel plate I guess would be a #0 which is just a plate ground flat I thing. We make good power with the #10 and I think a #0 might just add more fuel/power that can't really be used anyway because of EGT's. Maybe someone with some #0 plate experiences will chime in.



My EGT's can easily hit 1200* but my plate's also full forward. My boost will pin my 35psi gauge in seconds if hold er down. It seems my EGTs get hotter sooner and stay hotter than they used to, I should check for boost leaks. My Pyro has a few miles on it so I wonder if the thermocouple can loose calibration over the years?



Mike

 

[JGK]

#crnxr,



I think one of the reasons you're not getting the huge power surge at the low end you're expecting is due to the interaction of the throttle setting, the governor action, and the load. In 2nd and 3rd (I never use 1st except when towing, which is rare), there just isn't any load on the engine. So you take off giving it full throttle and the engine easily spins up to high revs. Moving an empty truck is not much effort with this engine in the low gears. With the revs so high, the governor causes defueling quickly.



Now when you make the leap to 4th, the higher gearing starts to put a load on the engine. You mash the throttle, the engine can't spin up quite as quickly, so the governor lets the rack in the pump really pour the fuel to the engine. Now you get lots of smoke, the turbo comes on hard, and all hell breaks loose (and maybe even your wheels). Same thing when you hit 5th.



With a different plate, governor spring kit, injectors or whatever, you may change that to get more low end response.



In any case, I'm experiencing the same thing with my set up. Low-end get up and go is just a little sluggish due to the gear ratios in 2nd and 3rd. They're grunt gears to get a load moving, not speed gears. I have to wind it up a bit and let the clutch out quickly to spin the tires. But, oh boy, at about 1700 in 4th it really hits. The truck better be pointed in the direction you want cuz it gets moving quickly!



By the way, for comparison, my last dyno run (last spring) produced 489/1025. However, that may be a bit high. It was learned a few days later the compensation factor was a bit liberal. But it was good for my ego!



-Jay

 

[Forrest]

Next step up for a fuel plate I guess would be a #0 which is just a plate ground flat I thing. We make good power with the #10 and I think a #0 might just add more fuel/power that can't really be used anyway because of EGT's. Maybe someone with some #0 plate experiences will chime in.



Mike

The #0 is one gross, obscene, drivetrain vibrating plate. Because of its profile, it's basically wide open fueling @ all rpm. It builds EGT fast, if you're in the throttle @ low rpm. I had one in for quite awhile. Towing EGT isn't a problem, you just use your right foot & use your boost guage. I kept boost down & therefore EGT kept down.



I found that a hybrid plate works really good by limiting low end fuel with a #10 profile & #0 @ the high end. Joe D built it for me & numbered the #100. Oo.

 

[Woodenhead]

JGK, well put.



Thanks for the info. Forrest

I read your post on the #100. So if a guy wanted one of the #100's I guess he'd have to try and butcher a #10. I wonder if there are any plans of making a #100 available to the public .



Mike

 

[Forrest]

I don't know, but it would sure be nice. No doubt there is a bunch of NRE involved. Good question directly to the folks that mfg plates.



Sure, a good starting place is a #10, but if one had the right equipment, a stock plate could be "chucked up" & machined.