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Concrete floor sealer/paint?

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I used Quickcrete floor epoxy in my shop. It is a 2 part system with water clean up. Comes with concrete etching solution and flakes. After coating my floor with the gray and flakes, I noticed the flakes that you sprinkle on as you paint the floor, made little sharp edges that would snag a towel when you wipe up a spill. So, I re-coated it with the clear, and what a difference it made!! Nice shiny floor that is easy to clean. A friend of mine that I am helping him repair a motorcar, had spilled some acetone on the floor, it did not phase it. In short, I am very pleased with the system!!
 
Have any of you had experience redoing an existed (peeling) painted garage floor with one of these coatings? I would love to do this to my attached garage this summer but I'm afraid of the results due to the existing floor paint that is failing.
 
You would need to strip off all the peeling paint first, then etch it good to get it to adhere.



Scrape off all the old paint; if some is peeling, you can be sure much o the rest will peel. Then thoroughly degrease the concrete. Lots of Greased Lightning or other low-sudsing detergent and a rotary floor scrubber. Once you're fairly confident you've gotten the grease up, thoroughly rinse away all the detergent. If you want to go an extra step degreasing, you could scrub again using plenty of isopropyl alcohol to complete the degreasing. Then dry, etch and paint. If you use alcohol though, be very, very careful to avoid igniting it; keep the space well ventilated and only work a small area at a time. And be sure to use pure alcohol, not oiled rubbing alcohol.



The better the surface is degreased and de-detergented, the better the paint will stick.
 
I am currently in the process of putting down the Rustoleum product in my garage. I have 2/3 of it done so far and yes, it does have the flakes that snag things. I didn't know about the clear coat mentioned so I am going to do that as well. So far, I'm very pleased with the look even though I'm doing it myself :)

One thing to note, given the temperatures I am working with, it is taking around 48 hours to cure enough to walk on. It is taking about 7 days to harden enough to not scratch easily while moving heavy items around on it. I've been doing 1/3 of the floor per week, so it has worked out well so far. The heater I have in the garage helps me, but doesn't appear the help the floor curing, probably due to the temperature of the concrete floor.
 
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I finally finished the floor this past Sunday. I had to move a V8 engine sitting on the floor by myself to do it, but it's finally done. Now to finish painting the walls and ceiling.

I checked out that floor clear coat sealer they have at Lowes. It's made for porous concrete surfaces. The epoxy floor coating I used is a sealer. It says not to use it if water doesn't sink in. Do you think I could still use it and get away with it? Thanks.
 
You don't want to use a sealer. Use the clear coat epoxy made by same brand as the color coat you used. If you coat it before any traffic, you won't have to clean or prep the floor again.
 
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