Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Connect FP sender to Inj Pump or Fuel Filter?

[krs]

At first I used the schrader/greasegunhose method but I got jumpy readings either because of pulse from the pump or because I didn't have a good way to secure the electrical sender. I also wanted a reading across the filter so I could watch it get plugged up. So I used drilled out banjos at each side of the filter and made an aluminum block to mount two senders. Now I have a micro switch at the gauge that gives me a reading before the filter and before the VP44 after the filter. Since this picture I''ve also put in a small underhood mechanical gauge to keep the electrical honest.



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[wlowe]

I installed a banjo bolt at the botton of the fuel filter rather than the schrader valve. I believe the schrader valve is used by the dealer to check pressures when troubleshooting so I thought it would be best to leave it alone. I used diesel rated fuel line (from West Marine) connected to barb adapters because an 18 " grease gun hose was not long enough to reach my sender (see "View Readers Rigs Gallery" to the left for pictures).



Good Luck,

Bill

 

[Hohn]

How come i don't have jumpy readings?

I was wondering about all you guys who say you have jumpy readings from connecting to the Schrader. It is because you have an electrical gauge?



I have NO noise, NO leaks, NO jumpy readings, and NO problems. I am using a mechanical gauge from Enterprise in combination with an isolator.



I am I just lucky?



HOHN

 

[raf2000]

I realize that this is an old thread but I still would like to see a few detailed pics of the actual tap into the fuel system. The sender is somewhat obvious. Can you drill and tap the banjo bolt that hols the fuel line to the bottom of the fuel filter? I have not look under there yet, installed the cab stuff today and going to tackle the sender on my Westach in the morning.

 

[jjohn]

Fuel line to sender



This is a tapped banjo from Geno's and a fuel line I had made at a hydraulic shop in Denver. There is also a test port at the sender end. This is on a 02 at the input side of the fuel filter.

 

[raf2000]

I take it that goes into the bottom of the fuel filter? Can I drill and tap the original bolt? I do not want to wait another three days for a part I can make myself. . How about opening the gap where the rubber line is and inserting a T an then running to the sender? I realize it is not as polished an install as customized banjo bolts but just want to do it tomorrow morning in under an hour! Is that 5/16th hose? Thanks to all that respond and thanks for the nice pic, jjohn. (just saw the pic from a while ago above. . Duh!)

 

[jjohn]

raf2000

I tapped mine between the lift pump and fuel filter housing. Out the back side pointing to the firewall. I wanted mine pre filter so the test port I added could be compared to the factory test port on the Inj pump that is post filter. The 90 degree comes out the back side at a 45 degree up along the firewall where a mechanical isolater is mounted in the brake master cylinder area.

 

[raf2000]

By tapped, I mean, drill and tap, not insert. It looks like from your pic that you bought a banjo from Geno's. I want to know if I could remove my bolt that holds the fuel line to the bottom of the filter, drill it out and then tap it with 1/8th inch NPT and then run a grease whip to the sender? Has anyone done this?

 

[rkressg]

Braided fuel line with a snubber on the input side of the injector pump. Just remove the valve stem out of the banjo bolt.

 

[raf2000]

Well, I had that bolt out earlier and removed then re-inserted the valve. That may be the painless way to do it. Do you mean slip a hose over and clamp it? Wonder if I can find something that threads right onto the end? Think I will use a needle valve for the dampening.

 

[krs]

raf2000,



To your question, of course you can drill and tap (thread) your existing banjo for 1/8 pipe and connect a greasegun hose to it, and yes, several people have done just that.

 

[raf2000]

Finally got that answered! I just had not pulled the bot out. Really want to do it there because it is cleaner there and many more easy places to mount the sender. I mainly wanted to know if the bolt was large enough to tap an 1/8" npt into it. I will do just that and photo it for all. Thanks.

 

[illflem]

I've drilled and tapped bunches, piece of cake. Far easier than tapping a manifold for a pyro, plus the pre-tapped ones Geno's sells usually have to be re-tapped anyway. Just drill though the bottom hollow of the bolt to keep your hole straight. I screw a 1/8'' needle valve into the banjo bolt before reinstalling it.

NO teflon tape, use Permatex #2 or anti-seize for sealant.

 

[raf2000]

Illflem, that is exactly what I did. Tapped it and then put a 1/8 npt needle valve in. Then screwed an 18" grease whip with c brass coupler on the other end and then the sender. Piece of cake. Now, my gauge reads 5psi at idle and ONE psi at WOT! Wonder if that is really right? The pump sounds really funny after I bled the air out by removing the valve in the banjo bolt at the VP44.

 

[illflem]

Your readings are probably right. What happens when you have an ailing lift pump is things will seem fine because the injection pump is doing the sucking until you introduce air then it loses it's prime. That could be why things sound different.