2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Convert from CAD to Non CAD

[JTruelove]

I recently swapped in an 02 rear disk rear end(Works GREAT). The same donor truck has a non CAD front axle. Would like the benifit from dual pistons calipers and get rid of the CAD. What will I get into with this swap?

 

[SMorneau]

I think the dual piston calipers would work better. How much I can't say. I see no benefit from eliminating the CAD. I don't know of too many people who have issues with them or have broken them. Others will disagree I am sure.

 

[SeanM]

I never swapped them before but I can't see it being any different as far as mounting.



You can look at the CAD 2 different ways. Positive, if you do the swap you will have 2 less parts to fail and your axle shaft will be stronger if you use your truck for 4 wheeling . 2. Negative, If you do the swap you might lose a little (very little) fuel mileage.



The only time I have ever seen any problems with the CAD is when they are being abused off road.





The other thing is if you go with non CAD front end you can't put a 2W low kit in it. I somtimes wish I had the CAD so could get the 2W low kit in it.

 

[SRath]

The CAD is so exposed it is just asking for trouble and plenty of people do have issues with it. The thing is, you will never have any trouble with it unless and until you really need it to work.

When I plow snow, the entire cad collects so much ice and hard frozen snow that I could not even begin to get to it if a fragile vacuum line broke. And you can bet that would result in being badly stuck.

What many here don't understand or seem to care about is the CAD axle shaft diameter, which is the equivilent of a Dana 44 which is a very light duty axle. Far too light to put under a powerful diesel with oversized tires and, in my case frequently, a very heavy plow. It is nowhere even close to being as strong as a 1. 5" true Dana 60 axle shaft. Carrying weight is the job of the housing, balljoints, and unit hubs. Transmitting power is the job of the axle shafts, u-joints, and unit hubs. Combine serious torque with serious weight and serious tires, and the undersized shafts are bad news. Worse yet is the sliding splined collar design of the CAD which dramatically weakens it even more.

So you have both reliability issues with a system that relies on exposed vacuum lines, diaphram, and moving parts and strength issues, too.

If you only use your 4wd occasionally and lightly, the expense of upgrading isn't worth it. But if you use you truck hard in 4wd with regularity, it is well worth upgrading.

The factory installed a massively strong Dana 80 rear axle on my truck for a reason. But when I plow snow, it is the front axle that is taking the lion's share of the weight and stress. A downright beating at times. And I sure wouldn't want a Dana 44 doing it. Or, if could help it, a Dana 60 with weaker-than-dana 44 shafts and an engagement system that even the factory eventually deemed problematic enough to do away with.

That's just one perspective for what it's worth. If you have the opportunity and means to improve that front axle in any respect, I would vote "Do it!"

 

[Hammer]

I would rather deal with the CAD the older trucks have than deal with the crappy ball joint issues the newer axles have. As for better brake calipers they are readily available for our trucks.

 

[JTruelove]

Until this year I didn't have a problem with my CAD. A line broke, so I guess it sucked in some water, because for the next few days my 4x4 wouldn't engauge, until the weather was above freezing. If I purchased this other axle, how would the 4x4 work with out the CAD? Second, are there kits to upgrade my current setup to dual pistons?



Thanks for the reply