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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Convert to cartridge/24V Style fuel filter?

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Anyone done this? Is it a bolt on? Does the 24V cartridge style housing hold up okay to the mechanical lift pump? Any help appreciated.
 
I`d like to convert to the new HPCR fuel filter housing. . Man, that thing is the cats (youknowwhat). I changed the filter in my 05 in less than 5 minutes with just a pair of channelocks. Cant say that for my 96.



hmm might have to look for a used canister now, if it will hold the pressure. .



hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm



good idea bluthndr



-j
 
Takes me 5 minutes to change my canister on my 95. Use a small pair of channels to remove the WIF sensor then a filter wrench with a adjustable angle handle. A good wrench is the key to happiness.
 
bluthndr said:
Anyone done this? Is it a bolt on? Does the 24V cartridge style housing hold up okay to the mechanical lift pump? Any help appreciated.

Didn't have swap it, my 98 12v has the same one as my 98. 5 24v So they came that way from the factory on the later 12v's. So I guess YES is the answer it will work!

William Cummins... .
 
94-96 have the spin on filter. 97-up have the canister. I have no idea why you guys want to change, the spin on is easier my bro has an 02' and he's jealous of my spin on. 10 minutes tops on a change.
 
tp0d said:
I`d like to convert to the new HPCR fuel filter housing. . Man, that thing is the cats (youknowwhat). I changed the filter in my 05 in less than 5 minutes with just a pair of channelocks. Cant say that for my 96.



hmm might have to look for a used canister now, if it will hold the pressure. .



hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm



good idea bluthndr



-j



The common rail engines have much easier access to the filter. The spin on is easier than the canister for the second gen trucks.
 
Brief history:



94-96 spin on filter

97-99 drop-down canister with filter element

00-02 canister with lid & filter element

03-06 Same as '00-'02 but with different fuel inlet fitting



I have a canister off a '01 in my garage I was going to install on my '96. I did some measring and it's going to be very close clearance with the lift pump below it, and the brake booster. I think it is doable though. My only concern was with the higher pressure of the 12v lift pump causing the lid O-ring to leak but I think it could hadle it OK. I was wanting to do this mod because I can see what my filters look like when I cange them, and the element has more surface area I'm sure than the spin-on cartridge. Also I wanted to simplify the fuel system and get rid of the prefilter/heater setup and reduce chances of drawing air into the system.



One thing you have to do is get the wiring harness for the WIF and heater so you can patch them into your older truck's wiring since the plugs are all different. And hopefully the WIF and heater have the same resistance/current as the older setup.



Vaughn
 
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i was told by the service manager at cummins nw in my area that the drop in filter elements filter better than a spin on type and that it would me a waste of money.
 
There are a few things to be considered when doing this. I put one off a 2001 on a 1996 but remote mounted it on the fender well. No matter where you put it the plumbing going to it is in different locations. The water in fuel sensor works fine. The best bet for the fuel heater is to leave it disconnected and retain the factory fuel heater. The reason for this is that the factory one heats the fuel before it gos through the little screen next to the fuel pump. If you live in a cold climate and don't retain that heater it may cause you problems. I increased the fuel pressure on this 1996 and had to get the billet lid for the filter housing through Genos. The higher pressure and pulsations of the 12valve fuel pump cause the plastic lid to constantly flex up and down which will eventually lead to it cracking. These filter housings were designed for use at around 15psi. the lid being the limiting factor. If you mount it on any of the body panels mount it through rubber or you will have a terrible groan that resinates into the cab.
 
Lightman said:
There are a few things to be considered when doing this. I put one off a 2001 on a 1996 but remote mounted it on the fender well. No matter where you put it the plumbing going to it is in different locations. The water in fuel sensor works fine. The best bet for the fuel heater is to leave it disconnected and retain the factory fuel heater. The reason for this is that the factory one heats the fuel before it gos through the little screen next to the fuel pump. If you live in a cold climate and don't retain that heater it may cause you problems. I increased the fuel pressure on this 1996 and had to get the billet lid for the filter housing through Genos. The higher pressure and pulsations of the 12valve fuel pump cause the plastic lid to constantly flex up and down which will eventually lead to it cracking. These filter housings were designed for use at around 15psi. the lid being the limiting factor. If you mount it on any of the body panels mount it through rubber or you will have a terrible groan that resinates into the cab.



That's what I was looking for - the 00-02 style. No preheater in mine anyway - runs fine down to about 30*F
 
Vaughn MacKenzie,

I don't know where you got your information but my 97 has a cartridge type filter. Wish it had the spin on like my old 96.

WD
 
You are right WDaniels, and I knew that, just mis-typed the info. I edited my post to fix it :)



Lightman when looked mine over it appeared I could mount the '01 unit in the stock location but it would take some reworking of the fuel lines.
 
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