Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Converter puked what now?

[mroidt]

Well I've been saving for this day, hoping it would'nt come.

But its came , now repair or replace? Its only got 75K.



Got my camper out the other day and decided to take

for a 10 mile jaunt, well didn't notice it till it started

getting warm . The trans temp started climbing and I still

didn't notice, till I slowed and got back in it. She wouldn't

lock again till I let off .



Any final words and or suggestions besides calling the big

buck trans company, which I'm in the middle of trying.



TIA for any comments or answers.

 

[CumminsAholic]

Just because It didn't lock doesn't mean the converter is bad. Could be the tps or tps signal. A lot of times the converter not locking or unlocking and locking irratically has to do with the tps signal. Now if it was locked and you gave it some throttle and it gained rpm without gaining speed (I could get mine over 3000rpm at 70mph locked up ) Then the converter is slipping and you have a problem or will very shortly. If you're going to keep the truck and there is a problem with the trans you may as well fix it right. There's a lot of good shops out there, call around and pick the one you feel most comfortable with.

Corey

 

[Hahn007]

I had a similar problem a while ago and decided to go with an ATS transmission and tripled lock converter. If I had to do it all over again I think I would make a different choice. This thing REALLY holds but the problem is the shifts, especially when the converter locks, are pretty harsh when running empty. When loaded down it has pretty good manners but it still slams the differential when going into lockup under heavy power. If I lift my foot off the accelerator right before the trans shifts, it shifts like a cream puff, but like I said under heavy power it is pretty aggressive.



Chris Hahn

 

[mroidt]

CumminsAholic Yea I'mm pretty sure the converter done, She's working ok empty most of the time. I'll hook her up again to be sure.



Hahn007 Been talkin' to Gorend Bros. pretty sure that the way I'm going.

Talkin' to them again tomorrow to see if I should just try a converter.

Kinda on the fence, hate to do it twice, but I will . Also great warranty.



thanks again guys

 

[zstroken]

Go with Dave Goerend, you will be very happy you did.

 

[CCBrady]

mroidt, I feel your pain. Four days before you, my transmission gave it up. Started to pull away from a light on the way to work, and when it should have gone into 2nd all I got was a lot of RPMs. Backed out of it and tried again with just a touch of power and it finally went on up through the gears. Pulled the pan the next day and found the fwd band had come apart. Now I have 9 more days until I limp it north of the bourder to let DTT put a new one in. I took a look at Goerend Trans and it seems like a quality unit, but they are a little far for me to go to for my transmission. And I like to be able to look at the people I'm talking to when it comes to this kind of money. Good luck with your repairs.

Chris

 

[mroidt]

what now guys ?

My dad bought another camper today and I told him its just 6 miles on the flat, I'll pull it home. So I drove up, about an hour and hooked up to 10K '94 36' Fiver and pulled it home without a problem. So this makes me wonder about a fluke APPS. There's no way to clean them is there? Or could anybody tell me how to check them.



So next weekend I'm gonna try to pull it about an hour, so that'll tell me sure I hope



Thanks for any replies

 

[CumminsAholic]

Like I said in my first post, slipping is a bad converter, not locking up unless you let off, or unlocking and locking has to do with the apps. I have to let off my throttle when I get on the freeway a lot of times to get it to lock right away, not a big deal, but I know my converter isn't bad. I reset my apps, the battery unhooking way, nothing changed. Then I did it per Bill K's instructions, and I had better shifts, (up and down, it normally doesn't like to do into 1st gear unless I come to a complete stop), it took care of the having to let off the throttle and it shifted to first like it should. However this only lasted a few weeks so I'm afraid I need a new tps. It's back to the having to let up on the throttle to get it to lock when I get on the freeway, at slower speeds it's fine. Try resetting the tps per Bills instructions. Hope this helps out.

Corey

 

[CumminsAholic]

Also, I forgot to mention. To test them you use a volt meter on the pcm, I'll have to check which wire, it's orange, but I can't remember the tracer color on it. If I remember right it was in the . 45v area at idle position. Maybe somebody else will chime in with the info before me.

Corey

 

[nps]

Have you wrapped your alt wire with tin foil? See the home page article. Cheap fix for an intermittent unlock problem.

 

[CumminsAholic]

I dunno if the tinfoil question is for me, but if it is, I have a noise filter from DTT on mine.

Corey

 

[mroidt]

nps saw it, will try it this weekend. thanks



cumminsaholic thanks for info, hope you have time to

double check that info. thanks again



more in next post below

 

[mroidt]

cumminsaholic I also have a manual and will try to look up wire.

the pcm is the triple connection behind the air cleaner, correct?

orange wire . 45v at idle.



To reset APPS, disconnect battery 30 min and hook back up.

Turn key on and slowly push pedal all the way to floor .

Hope this is right. I did this not to long ago when I did injectors.

thanks

 

[CumminsAholic]

That's one way to reset it, the other involves taking the tps housing off and loosening the 2 torx screws and rotating the apps to get the correct voltage. There's a tag on the back of the tps that says the voltage.

Corey

 

[mroidt]

thanks again gentlemen I needed a hand

I'll will do it all this weekend