2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Converting to Warn Lock-out Hubs

[RKrueger]

Hi,

I am thinking of having the Warn lock out hubs installed to my 99 Dually 3500 Auto 4x4 to get a little increase in gas mileage by disconnecting the front driving members. I do understand the lubrication issues, but I can live with that, as I don't use the 4x4 anyway.

Can someone give me some advice on ones they have done, about what it costs, and and problems involved?



Thanks,

Robert

 

[RHestand]

I have an EMS free-spin kit on my 06 2500.

It has a Warn lock/unlock mechanism, but the kits are made by EMS,Dynatrac, and one or two others.

If you do a search on this forum on 'hubs' there is a lot of info.

I inst. mine about one year and 10,000 miles ago, and IMO they are great.

I picked up a solid one MPG, and many other advantages that you can read about on this TDR sight.

You will definately get both sides of the story on this forum, as for me, it was $1600 well spent.

Some of the guys say it's not cost effective, IMO not spinning all the stuff up front, and getting rid of the hated sealed factory bearing units, was fixing something that Dodge was being ($Penny wise and dollar stupid) about.

Good luck, Ray

 

[WilsonF]

If you don't use 4wd can't you just disconnect the front drive shift?
Floyd

 

[DodgeWarlock]

The only thing that would eliminate is the front driveshaft. The diff and axleshafts would still be turning. Since the axleshafts are direct-splined into the hub/unit bearings the only way to free them up is with the hub conversion.

 

[RKrueger]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your help so far. $1600 was more than I wanted to spend on this frankly, I was trying to keep it under a grand. Here was another suggestion for disabling semi-permanently, which is in the context of Floyd's suggestion:



"You can use the stock hubs, but you need to have the outer axle shafts installed through the hub with the locknut to hold the bearings together".



I'll find out some more on this one, and wait to hear more news from others than may have had this done already. I'm not in shape to do this myself, so I have to know exactly what I need to have and what exactly to tell the shop to do.



Thanks,

Robert

 

[DodgeWarlock]

"You can use the stock hubs, but you need to have the outer axle shafts installed through the hub with the locknut to hold the bearings together".

You would have to remove the inner shafts to do this, which would leave the front diff open to collect dirt,water and debris. Any ideas on how you are going to seal the axle tubes effectively? Besides you probably spent that much $$$$ to have a 4wd, is it really worth it to convert back to a 2wd? There are easier ways to achieve a 1-2 mpg improvement.

 

[LandShark]

EMS shows the kit at $1000. 94-99 SRW Dodge Hub Conversion [HC-94D-30] - $999. 95 : EMS Offroad, When You're Ready For The Next Step

 

[RKrueger]

I like the EMS solution out of my choices.

Thank you very much for all your help guys.



Dodge Warlock - I would have used one of the rubber expandable pipe plugs for plumbing with SS tighteners.



Regards,

Robert

 

[SRehberg]

As was stated, to gain 1 even 2 mpg, the payback period would be forever considering the cost of the changeover. Not that much is spinning in there and you have 4wd the instant you may need it on a rare occasion. The added benefit of the factory system is staying in the warm cab not having to get out and fart around with the hubs. I use 2 wd almost all year. We have a place in Canada that I use 4 wd for about 400 ft each direction but it is worth its weight then. Just my 2 cts.

 

[JDKammin]

I think most people buy these kits for the fact of getting rid of the hub units and installing something that has the greasable and rebuildable hubs. The fuel mileage, if an increase is experiencec, is an added bonus.

 

[RKrueger]

I know you guys are right, and right now, I get a true 20+ mpg around town and 23 on the highway, having done all the other things associated with power, tires, driving style, and even lubricants such as full synthetic to lower frictional resistance. Spending another $1500 to see a payback of 1 -2 mpg doesn't make sense at this point in the game.





Robert

 

[Ereynolds72]

What does this conversion/installation do to the track width?

 

[RAndrae]

It does not change tract width, although the hubs do extend out further. On my 02 I machined out the center of the stock hub caps and the hubs etc stick out a couple of inches. The main benifit of the hub kit for me was having the capability of using 4 low on pavement. This is huge when you have a big load... use it all the time

 

[ed9824v]

It does not change tract width, although the hubs do extend out further. On my 02 I machined out the center of the stock hub caps and the hubs etc stick out a couple of inches. The main benifit of the hub kit for me was having the capability of using 4 low on pavement. This is huge when you have a big load... use it all the time

to some degree you could of added a posi-lock for the CAD and used 4 low and not turn the hubs. That doesn't give you the benefit of the reduced friction turning all they stuff in the diff.

 

[SRath]

You guys are overlooking the Number 1 reason to do this conversion: RELIABILITY.



The Dodge pseudo-Dana 60 is a very weak, poor design. Period. Maybe suitable for 1/2 ton applications, but definitely NOT for a heavy-duty truck with a very heavy diesel motor over the front axle and possibly a snow plow or winch too, like mine.



The day will come when your CAD fails you; and only when you really need it. The day will come when the unitized bearing/hub fails you; in the worst possible circumstance. They will cost you dearly to repair. Oops, I forgot; you CAN'T repair the unitized hub... You can't even do preventive servicing! Pure light-duty disposable junk...



True, even after doing all of this: spending thousands of dollars on the hub kit, t-style steering components, ball joints, DSS, 3rd gen track bar, adjustable control arms, etc. , etc... .



You will STILL have a weak housing, weak ball joints (compared to kingpins), and Dana 44 sized inner axle shafts.



Definitely NOT the stuff that made the Dana 60 front axle famous.



But short of fitting a real Dana 60 Ford front axle in your truck, it is the best that can be done with the sow's ear Dodge sold us.



I plow snow and go offroad with my truck, and as you can tell, I am thoroughly digusted with Dodge for this joke of a front axle and steering and suspension...



A HD Dana 44 would be just as strong; maybe more so. Leaf springs would be infinitely better. That said, any solid axle front end is ten times better than the independent torsion bar crap Chevy betrayed us Bowtie fans for...



Until a Ford D60 conversion exists for the Dodge like are common for the Chevys, this type of hub and shaft kit is the best thing going.



I, however, would buy the EMS hub kit because the Dynatrac is way too pricey, but I would also buy the Dynatrac inner axle kit (IF they truly have their sealing problem fixed). The Dynatrac inner axles are true 1. 5 inch dana 60 sized shafts. the EMS axles are tapered back down to weanie Dana 44 size (one and a quarter inch, I believe). Don't let the beefy end fool you, they are only as strong as the weakest, smallest section.



My Dodge has destroyed over $2500 worth of tires in just three years!! Less time than that, actually, but I have to live with trashed tires until I can afford more.



My trusty K30 real Dana 60 leafspring Chevy has NEVER worn any tire badly. This conversion, along with all the pricey upgrades REQUIRED to avoid the dreaded and dangerous Dodge Death Wobble will pay for themselves in just a couple of years in tire costs alone!

 

[RAndrae]

Late 02 trucks like mine do not have CAD... ... ... I have the posi lock on my 96

 

[SRath]

I have used and trusted lockout hubs for many years. The "hassle" some guys think they are utterly baffles me. Ten seconds is all it takes. If that is too difficult, you should buy an AWD vehicle.



No "automatic" hub or axle disconnect system yet devised can come even close to the reliability or strength of simple lockouts. Even a Posi-Lock leaves you with a weaker (than quality lockouts) sliding sleeve, though it is far better than the vacuum CAD. It still leaves one side of your axle components engaged full time, too.



You should know when you are going to be in marginal traction situations, whether off-road or in bad weather. So just lock them in ahead of time and leave the t-case in 2wd. A quick shift of the t-case puts you in 4wd and back out again.



Driving with your hubs locked in 2wd is really no different than the Dodge already does full-time in stock form with the CAD.

 

[K.L.Schumacher]

I have had my share of Dodge 4x4 trucks over the last 33 years . Full time DODGE 4X4 trucks built from 74 to 79. w 100 and w200 trucks , 66 w100 that i still own after 33 years. But the best front end in any of the trucks that i have had was the Dana 60 in my 76 w200 with a part time conversion and hubs installed. Easy to work on and good brakes. if it would only bolt into my 96 3500 4x4 i would do it in a minute. By the way i am a long time Dodge truck owner . I do not wish to own another make. Dodgeboykim