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Convince me Centramatic’s work

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Yeah they aren't cheap, but I'm intrigued by the shorter sidewall for my general towing tire. The should squish less than a comparable 18" tire. 34-35" tires are the max I'll run anyways.

A 285/60R20 has the same load index as a 275/70R18, but a 285/65R20 has a higher rating. The 285/75R18 has an even higher rating, but the most sidewall of that general tire size. The 285/65R20 are only slightly more money than the 285/75R18.

My elk camp tires will remain a 275/70R18. More sidewall for that style off-road and chains will fit all 4 corners. While I have enjoyed not swapping tires recently the compromises aren't great for when I need max traction each year. So back to 2 sets of wheels/tires it is.
 
According to Tire Rack there is nearly $100 delta per tire compared to the OE size. That's substantial for the return..... maybe you can catch a better break on a sale. I do hope they meet your expectations.
 
According to Tire Rack there is nearly $100 delta per tire compared to the OE size. That's substantial for the return..... maybe you can catch a better break on a sale. I do hope they meet your expectations.

Sounds right for the OE tire, but for the taller versions it’s smaller.

I hope they meet my expectations too. I hate, HATE, buying tires. It’s one of the most agrivating things in life.

I guess time will tell.
 
Sounds right for the OE tire, but for the taller versions it’s smaller.

I hope they meet my expectations too. I hate, HATE, buying tires. It’s one of the most agrivating things in life.

I guess time will tell.

I just ordered my 3rd set of the same tires today. First time ever in my life that I bought the same tire more than once, errr twice. I always bounced around between tire brands before.
 
Longest tire life will be where the tire tread and rim width are an exact match on STOCK wheel size.

Next is tire design where a harder compound (highway spec) is in use, AND highway-rib tread (closed shoulder).

No other change from stock has the effect as does bad tire choices on reducing MPG & Tire Life.

A stock truck given bad tires may reduce the average annual MPG by 2-MPG. Enough to have gone from 17 average to 15 for a conscientious driver. Engine life just went down by 50,000-miles.

350k is a balancing act. Step carefully.

A tire says BRIDGESTONE or MICHELIN on the sidewall is Step One, IMO. Duravis or LTX (or exact successors). Can’t get 100k+ on these then ain’t really trying.

As to “bead-clump” that’s a function of bead design. Some collect moisture on surface and some don’t.

Use of nitrogen reduces/eliminates moisture in tire, so look into portable nitro tanks, etc. Moisture bad for tires anyway.

Last I knew no shops are using tire lathes anymore. Cadillac/Continental/Imperial dealers in the dim past used to send out new cars after this procedure. Them Dallas oil zillionaire widows DID NOT like any bumps or buzz, PERIOD. (And 22-psi bias-ply Goodyears already rode soft. The Princess & The Pea).

Sure did work. Surprising how much rubber has to be WORN OFF typical new tires to achieve roundness.
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Didnt used to. I bought mine at their headquarters in Alvarado, TX (near FTW) in 2012 (as they’re also alignment gods). Glad to know this. I’ll stop off to get a set. Thx.

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I just re-check it, I bought #300-318 on May 20 in 2020.
Funny that these spacers are nowhere mentioned except on the install instructions that are in the box.
I remember that they even hide in the box on the floor below another layer of cardboard. First I thought they forgot to pack them.
 
I just re-check it, I bought #300-318 on May 20 in 2020.
Funny that these spacers are nowhere mentioned except on the install instructions that are in the box.
I remember that they even hide in the box on the floor below another layer of cardboard. First I thought they forgot to pack them.

I was there on a very slow post-Xmas day. No one but me and the “tech” (long before made an exec). We spent a couple hours alone (included a 4-whl align check not needed; truck has never needed an alignment; then steer play + ball joint, etc) and we discussed where and how to use a grinder to fit a CM on Steer Axle. (Agreed Not Good Idea).

That might have lit a spark to not lose out on 2500/3500 Dodge as he was the guy expert in most all applications.

That shop has problem children stacked outside to fix bus, motorhome, semi align problems. I’ve talked with owner-ops who’ll bid loads to get them past this location for inspection or work. Worth your time if a trip can be altered to stop in.

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Lot's of people believe in Balance Beads at a lot less $$$.


Only lasts life of tire. If you’re averaging 125k miles/set as I am, then, maybe.

If the tire has to be dismounted, start over.

Class 8
expects a lot more than 500k miles at Steer position for CM life (outside of snow belt). Over a million with a friend of mine (including oil field work).

Keeping tire diagnosis (steer problems) separate from “solutions” can be a benefit. (Remove CM and report back; or swap tires with/without CM for another brand/design, etc).

They’re easy to use and don’t require you to keep bead supply on hand if a tire is dismounted.

I like both (CM & CounterAct), but it ain’t just some $.


New higher-quality than OEM shock absorbers is the proper place to start re balance problems. Control of the spring isn’t the job of the tire.


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Only lasts life of tire. If you’re averaging 125k miles/set as I am, then, maybe.

If the tire has to be dismounted, start over.

Class 8
expects a lot more than 500k miles at Steer position for CM life (outside of snow belt). Over a million with a friend of mine (including oil field work).

Keeping tire diagnosis (steer problems) separate from “solutions” can be a benefit. (Remove CM and report back; or swap tires with/without CM for another brand/design, etc).

They’re easy to use and don’t require you to keep bead supply on hand if a tire is dismounted.

I like both (CM & CounterAct), but it ain’t just some $.


New higher-quality than OEM shock absorbers is the proper place to start re balance problems. Control of the spring isn’t the job of the tire.


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But you can buy a HE!! of a lot of balance beads for the price of CenterMatics.
 
I don't know whether they work or not. I bought a set and couldn't get them on. Then, my dislike of adapters and spacers surfaced, and that was the was the end of it. I saw them in the back of the shop a year or so ago.
 
I had balance issues with the Firestones on a new '14 Laramie, I ordered a new set of Centramatics and that smoothed it out, but still had a vibration that was from something else I guess, that was never resolved. I got it ready to trade in when I ordered a '17, and took them off, and it was back to an out of balance feel again. The new '17 was needing a balance after a while, so at the first tire rotation, I put the same Centramatics on it, and that solved the problem. I sold it in December, but decided to rotate the tires one more time, and pull the Centramatics off it. After a short drive, I could feel it was out of balance now, but the tires were due replacement by that time anyway, and the new owner can deal with that. Well, the '22 Laramie came in right after I sold the '17, and I decided to have the dealer slap on a set of Michelins, and throw the Firestones in the back for later. I could feel the tires were out of balance on the rears on the 30 mile break-in trip home from the dealership, so I put that old set of Centramatics on the rears, and you guessed it, it smoothed it right up. All these trucks had\have 18" tires too, and by the way, I thought I was moving up in the world with this high dollar set of LTX Michelins, but I have never seen a tire with so many weights on it in one place in all the vehicles I've owned, and not just one, it was like that on both rears. It's smooth now, so see no need to look at the fronts, or put the Centramatics on them, but probably will first time I rotate them. So yes, for me they work, the same set on three trucks now.
 
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