cooked rooters

[ringneck]

i have a 05 3500 and all are cracked.never smell bad brakes at no time when towing and pads are good.i was told my truck was doing the stoping for the 5th wheel,never stayed on the brakes.all ways back off down hill,is it me or china junk.

 

[Ozymandias]

How many miles?
First owner?
Did you replace before?

Sounds like very cheap stuff if all 4 cracked the same.

That once a while one has a crack happens.

 

[ringneck]

i have a 05 3500 and all are cracked.never smell bad brakes at no time when towing and pads are good.i was told my truck was doing the stoping for the 5th wheel,never stayed on the brakes.all ways back off down hill,is it me or china junk.

it has 80,000 on the truck.i had pads only changed

 

[Ozymandias]

Did you use OEM pads?

 

[Cummins12V98]

If you want AWESOME brakes change out to EBC rotors and OrangeStuff pads. TOP quality US Made.

Did the 3rd gen conversion on my 01 Sport.

#ad

 

[ringneck]

Did you use OEM pads?

i dont no.

 

[Tuesdak]

i have a 05 3500 and all are cracked.never smell bad brakes at no time when towing and pads are good.i was told my truck was doing the stoping for the 5th wheel,never stayed on the brakes.all ways back off down hill,is it me or china junk.

May need to service the brakes on the 5th wheel and turn the gain up on the brake controller. Clearly the brakes are running too hot on the pickup.

Did you change the pads only? The rotors from heat cracking are garbage at this point so I hope you did. (If not it's a do-over job replacing the pads with new rotors.) Turning rotors with hard spots is a waste of time and money if the hot spots are deep. The cutting tool just bounces off the hard spots and 3000 miles later the pedal pulse is back. You also need to "bed in" the new pads and rotors.

I have seen heat cracking with the telltale blue all the time on undersized GM brakes on 1/2 tons. Root cause is the brakes running way too hot. When they get hot the metal changes and becomes hard spots called Cementite. Thus for whatever reason you don't have enough brakes for the load you are stopping. FWIW I found slotted rotors run cooler in severe use. Drilled rotors run cooler as well, but, crack around the holes. Both slotted or drilled increased pad life for me from 12K to 17K on the undersized GM rear drum pickups and SUV's. The slotted rotors also dry off faster in the rain where rear discs get soaked to ineffective.

When the temperature of the rotor reaches 1200 – 1300°F. the cast iron in that area will change structurally and transform into a material called Cementite. It expands and creates a high spot you can sometimes feel, wears slower than the softer metal around it, and insulates the heat adding to it's own formation.

Not the final word, but, good info.

http://trackdayzone.com/index.php/h...nal-word-on-brake-vibration-and-warped-rotors

 

[Ozymandias]

Good information thank you @Tuesdak .

 

[Tuesdak]

If you want AWESOME brakes change out to EBC rotors and OrangeStuff pads. TOP quality US Made.

Did the 3rd gen conversion on my 01 Sport.

#ad

EBC also has good info including bedding in rotors.

Their take on cracking:

https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-new-rotors/

List of EBC articles:

https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-technical-brake-articles/

 

[ringneck]

May need to service the brakes on the 5th wheel and turn the gain up on the brake controller. Clearly the brakes are running too hot on the pickup.

Did you change the pads only? The rotors from heat cracking are garbage at this point so I hope you did. (If not it's a do-over job replacing the pads with new rotors.) Turning rotors with hard spots is a waste of time and money if the hot spots are deep. The cutting tool just bounces off the hard spots and 3000 miles later the pedal pulse is back. You also need to "bed in" the new pads and rotors.

I have seen heat cracking with the telltale blue all the time on undersized GM brakes on 1/2 tons. Root cause is the brakes running way too hot. When they get hot the metal changes and becomes hard spots called Cementite. Thus for whatever reason you don't have enough brakes for the load you are stopping. FWIW I found slotted rotors run cooler in severe use. Drilled rotors run cooler as well, but, crack around the holes. Both slotted or drilled increased pad life for me from 12K to 17K on the undersized GM rear drum pickups and SUV's. The slotted rotors also dry off faster in the rain where rear discs get soaked to ineffective.

When the temperature of the rotor reaches 1200 – 1300°F. the cast iron in that area will change structurally and transform into a material called Cementite. It expands and creates a high spot you can sometimes feel, wears slower than the softer metal around it, and insulates the heat adding to it's own formation.

Not the final word, but, good info.

http://trackdayzone.com/index.php/h...nal-word-on-brake-vibration-and-warped-rotors

 

[ringneck]

thanks tuesdak yes good infor.going to have slotted put on.5er may be to heavy at 16500 load for stock 2005 3500.

 

[jhenderson]

thanks tuesdak yes good infor.going to have slotted put on.5er may be to heavy at 16500 load for stock 2005 3500.

The truck is there to pull your trailer, not stop it. Your trailer should be stopping itself. If it’s not you need to find out why.

 

[ringneck]

The truck is there to pull your trailer, not stop it. Your trailer should be stopping itself. If it’s not you need to find out why.

thanks everyone,i am checking the 5er

 

[slowmover]

The truck is there to pull your trailer, not stop it. Your trailer should be stopping itself. If it’s not you need to find out why.

In fact, the combined rig should stop SOONER than the truck solo.

The best upgrade one can do is a switch to fully independent suspension (Mor/Ryde) and antilock disc brakes (Tuson).

The trailer will ride and handle better, and it will stop more easily than with drums. (Drums are junk).

The difference is profound.

.