Coolant Change Tips

[JJW_ND]

Did second coolant change. Learned a few things that might be useful for someone. Some of this comes for others, thanks for their help.



I started by opening radiator drain plug (before opening anything else) and let this drain into a 5 gallon bucket. If you don't pull drain plug completely out, you will catch most in the bucket. This should drain most of the the overflow bottle. Once a gallon or two is out open radiator cap. If you want you can remove overflow bottle by giving it a tap from below with a block a wood and hammer (mind was kinda hard to get loose). Next I open up Tstat and removed stat and seals.



Here is the trick to getting almost all coolant out, Jack up rear to elevate engine relative to the radiator. BTW, with rear in the air, it is much easier working on front end.



I was at 200K so I replaced the original radiator hoses.



While system was still opened up, I ran water into radiator to flush it, once it was running clean, close up radiator drain plug, or hold rag over drain hole to allow clean water to fill block. It will start running out Tstat opening when full. Flush that until runs clean. I then unhooked the heater line coming off Tstat area and ran water to flush heater core. Make sure heater is set to full heat.



Allow all clean water to drain. Close drain, install new Tstat, replace hoses, reinstall overflow. Put rear back on the ground.

Put in three gallons of concetrate and add water to top off. Some water will still be left. I used concentrate to make sure I was at 50:50.



This was on a 12V if it seems a little different.



The Cat ELC that I took out with 100K on it still looked like new. (probably was). Changed to Fleetgard EG.



jjw

ND

 

[Joe G.]

The reason the overflow bottle is hard to get out is because it has a large bump on the backside that fits into a hole. Use a large screwdriver to behind it to pry the bump out of the hole and slid something thin and wide behind it. Then it lifts out pretty easy. You may damage it just beating it out.

 

[Extreme1]

Good Post!



One clarification:

Originally posted by JJW-ND

Make sure heater is set to full heat.

The heater setting doesn't matter on these because there isn't a valve on the line to control flow, heat adjustment is done by air blending.



I would like to reiterate (sp?) 2 points:



1) Remove the t-stat. There is no bleed hole, it's done by the little bpass hose next to the stat. However, it will bleed out air on refill.



2) Use the drain plug on the radiator. There is quite a bit of radiator below the lower hose so removing that won't cut it!

 

[EMDDIESEL]

200k miles on original hoses!, thats immpressive. Anybody know of a source for Silicone stock hoses?

 

[B9Mile]

Another Tip

I usually stick a piece of tygon tubing on the discharge nipple of the radiator drain valve. I put the other end into my 1 gallon collection jugs. Not too much spillage or splashing with this way.

 

[JJW_ND]

Joe the overflow bottle on mine slides down to look into place. It must be lifted up to remove. I pulled and lifted and tried a screw driver to work on the two tabs. One tap with a 2x4 place against the bottom of overflow was much easier.



I save the original stock hoses, they looked fine. When your hoses almost never sees 200 degrees (rarely 190), they last longer.



This Tstat runs the same as the one I took out. Around 160 - 170, even in 90 degree heat.



Notice the Fleetgard Complete EG concentrate is blue but the premix is purple. Must be the water!



jjw

 

[Joe G.]

That's right. It slides into place and has some tabs to locate it. But the reason it is hard to pull up is the bulge on the back that prevents it from bouncing out. I used a long screw driver to pry the back of the bottle away from the bracket and slid a sheet rock tool (like a very wide putty knife) behind. Then it was easy to lift out. The washer bottle is the same way.

 

[Phil Stuart]

When to change coolant?

I was wondering because the FSM and the owners manual says at roughly 60,000 miles. I am at 23,000 now and originally thought it should be changed at 24,000 I need a little clarification on this fellas 'cause I just need to know.

When I do change it I will go with the Cummins Premixed stuff and will replace the thermostat also.



TIA



Good Day!



Phil

 

[Extreme1]

Go with the owners manual.

24,000 is unnecessarily soon. You don't change oil at 3,000 too do you?

 

[Phil Stuart]

Re: Go with the owners manual.

Originally posted by Extreme1

24,000 is unnecessarily soon. You don't change oil at 3,000 too do you?

Nope! Oil changes @ 5,000 mile intervals.



I kinda thought that 24,000 on the coolant change was a waste also. I,ll stick with the FSM or my Cummins O&M manual.



Thanks,



Phil

 

[illflem]

I go even further on a coolent change, 100k or 2000 hrs. Just add a qt of Nalcool 2000 once a year, it replaces the lost additives in the antifreeze. Been doing it this way for lots of years on diesel trucks and tractors without a problem.

 

[Zeaus]

I just checked my coolant with a a test stick. It showed that the coolant was good down to -23', but the acidity was borderline. This "Nalcool 2000", does it neutralize the acid in the coolant? If it does, then where do I find it and how much will it cost? Thanks

 

[illflem]

Zeaus, I'm not sure on the acid question. I've bought Nalcool at Napa, about $6 to treat a CTD. There are other brands of coolent restorer availible, even Cummins sells one along with a test kit. Wix also makes a similar product. Many over the road trucks use this system rather than replace anti-freeze all the time.

 

[KWIKKURT]

GREAT Post so far. . Is the GM DEXCOOL Antifreeze Okay to use??What are you guys using for Brands??



Much? $$





I also have used nalcool in fleet trucking and had great results



Thx Kurt

 

[BV]

Dex-Cool

Kurt - There was an article about a month back in our local paper that mentioned problems with Dex-Cool getting contaminated and plugging the cooling system.



Here is an interesting article that backs that up:

http://imcool.com/articles/anitfreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs2001.htm



Now for my question - Where do you guys get the testing kits?

 

[JJW_ND]

Plain ole Antifreeze is just fine!

I had lots of discussions with Cummins (CMEP) folks on the use of ELC antifreezes and they just kept saying, plain old antifreeze changed every couple years is all that is needed.



NO Addidtives, SCA or fancy antifreeze is required. Not in a B series!



I ran factory antifreeze to 100K (a little over 24 months), installed Caterpillar ELC (made by Texaco) for the next 100K. Just changed to Fleetgard EG. Everytime I changed the coolant I dumped looked like new.



There are NO Cavitation problems with Cummins B engines.



jjw

 

[TomGolden]

Here's where you can get test strips

BV,



I have been getting my test strips from www.dieselpage.com - Diesel Injection Service. Last bunch I bought was something like 4 test strips for a little over $5 as I recall.



Tom

 

[GFoley]

Draining Radiator

Hey guys,



I need some help. I am ready to change coolant, have 75,000 on the truck.

I have opened the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator but nothing is coming out. Do I have to open the petcock more than a typical 1/4 turn? Do I have to unscrew it more than this, pull on the thing once I have turned it or what?

I have reached the point of complete frustration. I have been under the truck twice now ready to change the fluid but I can't get anything to drain.

I am trying to get it done this weekend before I take the road trip to IN for Diesel Extravaganze 2001.

All help appreciated.



Glenn

 

[Thomas]

Glenn,



It pulls out a bit. Be careful—I think we're talking plastic. Give it a pull as you turn.

 

[GFoley]

Thanks Thomas!



I have a trickle started now. I think it will drain in two or three days now.



At least I have flow. I am headed back out there to watch some more.