Coolant in transmission

[PHolmgren]

I discovered transmission oil dripping from the torque converter area this morning, it smelled bad. Popped the transfer case off and out comes coolant. Jerked out the transmission oil/coolant exchanger and it had a hole internally. Whats done is done, has anyone had this happen? I want to flush the transmission and give it a try, any suggestions on a good way? My thot is to fill the transmission with oil and run on jack stands for a while and then drain (via the new drain whole just installed) and repeat until clean. The transmission was still working when I parked it so I have hopes it is still ok.

 

[PHolmgren]

Opps, no truck details.

 

[KOG]

It's not going to cost you much to change the fluid and try it. You want to drain the converter as well. Then idle it in neutral for quite a while and change the fluid again. Ethylene glycol is instant death on bearings, clutches and bands, but maybe you'll get lucky.

 

[PHolmgren]

I looked for drain plug on the converter, no luck. Is there another way to drain it? If not, I'll just circulate and drain repeatedly.

 

[Philip]

Instead of doing a lot of draining. I would run it down to a local shop that has one of the units that fills and flushes auto transmissions. They do this with the truck running. This way you would know all the coolant was all out.



I hope it didn't kill your trans.

 

[sdstriper]

Even if you take it in to have the fluid drawn out or sucked out the converter will still have fluid in it. I would drop the transmission pan and change the fluid and filter, if you have already run the truck since changing the fluid you mixed the new with the old in the converter. I would change it again, then pump the old fluid out using the following method.



Safety statement. Use the parking brake, chock the wheels etc. A helper would be very handy.



You will want a container you can clearly see the fluid in, you will want to be able to add fluid as you pump some out. You will have to take the return line off (the rear-most one). Truck has to be in neutral to pump fluid, catch it in a container (milk jug etc) and pay attention to the color of the fluid, you can tell the old from the new by the color. With fresh fluid it will be nearly impossible to tell the difference from color unless there is contaminant(antifreeze etc. ). I would pump a gallon thru just to make sure if it were me, cheap insurance really.



Philip, I guess I have not seen the type unit you mentioned. I have seen a cheesy deal they draw the fluid out thru the fill tube, must take a week...

 

[PHolmgren]

sdstriper, will this proceedure change the fluid in the torque converter? Probably should do this first. This will work great as when I removed the exchanger I now have a break in the return line to drain from after the air cooler up front. Thanks for the help both of you. Pete

 

[sdstriper]

sdstriper, will this proceedure change the fluid in the torque converter? Probably should do this first. This will work great as when I removed the exchanger I now have a break in the return line to drain from after the air cooler up front. Thanks for the help both of you. Pete

Yes. Torque converter fluid goes right out the pressure out line (front cooler line) and travels the cooler circuit then returns to the pan. That is why the cooler out line is the better choice for a transmission fluid temperature gauge, hottest fluid reading from there.

 

[PHolmgren]

Your good, you answered a question I didn't have a chance to ask yet! As soon as I finish the trasfer case rebuild I'll let you know how it all turns out, thanks again. Pete

 

[sdstriper]

Hey, do me a favor and take back this arctic cold front will ya?

 

[Philip]

Ross the one I have seen at a GM dealership where a nephew works at. Hooks into the cooler lines.

 

[PHolmgren]

Hey, do me a favor and take back this arctic cold front will ya?

As this is my plow truck I'm reluctant to take the weather back yet. It's been a very wimpy winter here (1 ft of snow and only -40F so far) but as soon as its back on the road..... bring it on.

 

[DBF]

Hope the transmission survived. If it's still ok, you're going to need to replace that heat exchanger. They're not available anymore thru DC.



Here's a page from Summit outlining some options for replacement heat exchangers. I don't own stock in Summit, they're available from several sources.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400076+306492+115&autoview=sku



Regards, DBF

 

[TWorline]

PHolmgren

Did you get any Trans fluid in your coolant? Just wondering as this can mess up a coolant system. Back in the 80's my sister, then 20 (straight A student all through school & College) decided to add a quart of motor oil in her Dodge Omni, couldn't figure out where to put it so she put it in the radiator. A month later after a new radiator and heater core it would cool again.

 

[PHolmgren]

I'm still putting the t case back together, rebuid kit was missing a couple seals I need,..... generic kit. I don't think oil got in the water but to be sure I'm going to flush the system before I'm done. Do you think the water exchanger is a must or can I use air coolers, hesitate to go back to a failed system.

 

[sdstriper]

The heat exchanger would also help keep the transmission fluid in operating temperature in cold climates.

 

[Philip]

A auto trans is made to work in a narrow temp range. That range is almost the same as the engine is. To run an auto below temps can lead into more expensive problems. It should have a water to oil cooler. With the cold temps you have you would never get the trans to operating temps.

 

[sdstriper]

Here's another Brand new heat exchanger if you didn't want to risk a used one.



http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab1.htm

 

[PHolmgren]

It's still alive!

Now for the update, I got the T case done and reinstalled, no more leaks, flushed the transmission just like was suggested through the cooler return. I adjusted the bands and pressure while I had the pan off like talked about in other threads and also added a drain hole. The radiator did get oil in it and the transmission still has some residual water. These 518's are really amazing, that thing took the abuse like a champ and is working better than it ever has. I wonder for how long, for now anyway. I'm on the third transmission oil change and it appears to be clearing up nicely, can't say the same for the radiator. Any one have an idea for de-oiling a radiator? Tried Napa rad cleaner, no go. Tried Simple Green, three times. Am now trying Prestone Cleaner that you leave in for a couple days. I still find oil floating on top of the water. For now the exchanger is not coming back and tomorrow I'm getting a transmission temp gauge. After a 30 min run at full temp the oil I drained was only 135 F, outside temp +10 F and snowing. I think I'll be plowing tomorrow! Money from heaven. Thank you God. And thank you TDR. Pete

 

[sdstriper]

Now for the update, I got the T case done and reinstalled, no more leaks, flushed the transmission just like was suggested through the cooler return. I adjusted the bands and pressure while I had the pan off like talked about in other threads and also added a drain hole. The radiator did get oil in it and the transmission still has some residual water. These 518's are really amazing, that thing took the abuse like a champ and is working better than it ever has. I wonder for how long, for now anyway. I'm on the third transmission oil change and it appears to be clearing up nicely, can't say the same for the radiator. Any one have an idea for de-oiling a radiator? Tried Napa rad cleaner, no go. Tried Simple Green, three times. Am now trying Prestone Cleaner that you leave in for a couple days. I still find oil floating on top of the water. For now the exchanger is not coming back and tomorrow I'm getting a transmission temp gauge. After a 30 min run at full temp the oil I drained was only 135 F, outside temp +10 F and snowing. I think I'll be plowing tomorrow! Money from heaven. Thank you God. And thank you TDR. Pete

What about a low flash point solvent such as mineral spirits etc? Or de-natured alcohol? That would clean oil residue out better than water/anti freeze. I hope someone with some chemistry background chimes in on this, I would wait to try it until we get an opinion on that. I should have taken a few more classes like that in school, could have skipped on a few shop classes etc.