Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Coolant Leak at Head Gasket

[Rusty_S]

I have a 98 24 valve with 80,000 mi. It recently started spraying coolant out the rear of the engine onto the exaust pipe. I started removing parts ie. turbo, valve cover and rockers etc. so I could remove the head and change the head gasket. I'v done many gas engine head changes and rebuilds but this is my first Diesel. So my first question is,

(1) How do I get the last four push rods out of the head since they hit the under side of the cowl?

(2) What are the torque specs. and pattern of tightening for the head?

(3) Are there any things I should pay special attention to when removing injector lines etc. on the drivers side of the engine. Also what is the bleeding proceedure for the injector lines when I put it back together?

 

[DBraunig]

I have a 98 24 valve with 80,000 mi. It recently started spraying coolant out the rear of the engine onto the exaust pipe. I started removing parts ie. turbo, valve cover and rockers etc. so I could remove the head and change the head gasket. I'v done many gas engine head changes and rebuilds but this is my first Diesel. So my first question is,



(1) How do I get the last four push rods out of the head since they hit the under side of the cowl?



There are rubber grommets under the cowl panel that pop out and will allow you to bring the pushrods up and out that way.



(2) What are the torque specs. and pattern of tightening for the head?



Torque bolts to 80 N·m (59 ft. lbs. )

Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs. )

Re-check all bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs. )

Tighten all bolts an additional ¼ turn (90°)

i would just bring them all down to 125lbs, but this is the factory specs, see picture for pattern



(3) Are there any things I should pay special attention to when removing injector lines etc. on the drivers side of the engine. Also what is the bleeding proceedure for the injector lines when I put it back together?



Make sure you removed the fuel return at the rear of the cylinder head. leave the lines 1/2 turn loose at the head, crank the engine (30seconds at a time to save the starter) until you see fuel, then tighten the lines up. It should fire off and run a little rough and then clear up.

BTW, are you positive you lost the head gasket? there is a small freeze plug at the right rear corner of the head that is prone to leak. small like the size of your pinky. really hard to see, but it's worth a look before you go through all this work. Most head gaskets leak on the right front corner near the alternator. It might be worth pressure testing and verifying. If you really do the head gasket, cleanliness is everything. The head should be checked/decked if needed at a machine shop and when you think the block is clean, clean it two more times



Hope this helps,



Dave

 

[jamnram]

I have an 02, since new it had always leaked a little coolant. I could never find the leak, one day about 2 years ago there was even a puddle under the truck. Then about 6 months ago I could smell coolant and if the light was just right I could see a very fine spray hitting the exhaust. It was coming from the the freeze plug that Dave mentioned above. Based on where some of the coolant leaked and dried it did kind look like the head gasket could have been leaking. I didn't mess with it, as it looked hard to get to and replace, so I took it a diesel shop. They were able to get it out and install a new one without taking anything apart.

Bob

 

[Cummins Thunder]

I usually just check for clearance after pulling the rocker arms. In your case id go ahead and run the valves. It is fairly common to see a MPG increase after doing so.