coolant leak

[VeggieCummins]

a friend of mine has an 06 with a g56. he's leaking coolant from the rear passenger side of the engine out of a rubber connection connecting 2 hard 5/8 hose's. its a orange silicon sleeve type thing. i had the same issue on my auto but it came and went and ive now sold that truck. i think i tightend up the hose clamps if i recall correctlly. i know some other people have had the same issue on here i remember reading about a while ago. any thoughts or fixs besides tourqing the clamps

 

[DWeiler]

Tightening the clamps worked for me on my 2007 Mega DRW,that is what most try first. DW---if that does not work maybe some new clamps.

 

[CaptainEric]

Looks like it have the same coolant leak from that short hose on the passenger side of the engine. The dealer in Crystal River Fla. diagnosed the problem as the hose and pipe leaking. Quoted $787 to replace both items. Cost is high because they have to remove the turbo to replace the section of pipe. I am on vacation away from home and it"s not leaking bad at all so I will wait till I get home and have my mechanic take a look at it.



Per the dealer the replecement parts are Coolant Supply Line 517905AA and Hose 5179114AB.



Anyone have any more information about this problem? The mechanic at the dealership said that this was a rare problem.

 

[ryecreek]

braize the pipe with brass replace the hose if needed may be able to do it in the truck depending on where the leak is

 

[CDonaldson]

Dodge has a TSB regarding this hose and clamps. They replace it with a new hose and new clamps. Some have tightened the clamps only to have them start leaking again.



I tightened mine, the next winter it started leaking again, tried tightening the clamps again, finally ended up replacing the hose and clamps. Hasn't leaked for 2 year+.



It is easy to replace, takes all of about 1/2 hour. I cannot recall the price of the hose and clamps, but it was under $20. You have to loosen the line that runs alongside the block under the exhaust manifold, loosen where it clamps to the exhaust manifold stud at the #6 cyl, loosening this stuff allows more free play to take the hose off/apart.





CD

 

[B.G. Smith]

The fix: Loosen the clamp at the block end and slide it rearward, press on the hose and see if the clamp was in fact over the end of the nipple, if not position the clamp where it will be over part of the nipple. Problem solved. bg

 

[CDonaldson]

That may fix it or it may not. The TSB I referred to replaced the hose because the hose ID was the wrong size, it was larger than required. You can only tighten down a hose with a larger ID so far, it will not clamp/tighten correctly.



CD

 

[Cumminsduallyguy04]

Per the dealer the replecement parts are Coolant Supply Line 517905AA and Hose 5179114AB.

does your truck have an auto or manual so i can use the p/n's to acquire parts.

 

[CaptainEric]

It is an automatic. I updated my profile to reflect this. Thanks

Since I posted this I have pulled my trailer 300 miles and another 100 miles bobtail, there has only been a very minor weeping, not even enough to drip off the top of the hose. I will be seeing my mechanic in the morning. Will let everyone know the results. And thanks for all the help so far.

 

[CaptainEric]

Problem solved. Not an easy job but my mechanic ultimately prevailed. He did remove the alternator to get more room to move the rigid tubing. Once loose he went ahead and replaced the hose at the end of the tubing under the alternator, said it was cracking as well. The $200 he charged me was a lot better than the dealers estimate, and the turbo was not disturbed. As a bonus he loaned me his corvette... had fun with that. Thanks again for all the help.