Coolant leaking bad

[TGVET]

Changed the trans fluid yesterday, went to the store and back, checked to see if it needed more fluid to top off and coolant was leaking fast and the reservoir was nearly empty. With engine running, it looks like the leakage is coming from the top area of the of the water pump dripping down fast and coolant was everywhere. The coolant also looks darker than normal not clear and fresh as in the system as if there is some oil mixed in with it. I checked the dip stick to see what it looked like and there seemed to be a few very small bubbles on it.



Is it normal for the coolant to mix with oil when the pump goes bad ? Also, my from main seal has been leaking a small amount, I'm wondering if that has anything to do with slight discoloration of the coolant ?



Just had the transmission rebuilt and rear main seal done and now it appears time to rip into the front end of the engine. I figured when the time came to do the front main seal, I'd replace the H2o pump, all the hoses and install a fluid dampener at the same time, unfortunately, the time frame for failure repair was not at my choosing. . :{ Funny how that works out. .



Anyone have a similar failure with coolant leaking at a fairly significant rate ? I'm not saying dripping, I'm saying actually leaking a small stream. . Sitting at 257,000 right now.

 

[Wingate]

LEt the truck sit for a day or two and pull the oil plug. . see if any antifreeze comes out. . coolant will settle to the bottom, so it will be first to come out. As for the pump, I hear NAPA is much less expensive than Dodge...

 

[TGVET]

Problem fixed, NAPA pump, $51. 00. lifetime warranty. (Cummins $165. 00), (STEALERSHIP $300. 00) LMFAO.



Oil leak was not the main seal rather weep from the pump. 257,000 miles on the OEM, guess I got my miles worth out of it. Can't help but wonder if Amsoil contributed to that or not. No coolant in the oil all is well there.



My method if anyone else needs to replace theirs:



Step 1- Remove right wheel well liner to ease access of lower hose, 2-remove radiator cap & lower hose drain into large container. 3-remove left fan shroud bracket (3bolts for ease of pump removal), 4-I use 20" long 1/2" ratcheting torque wrench on the tensioner to release belt from AC pump, 5-remove old pump & check tension pulley for smoothness (mine was like new), 6-install new pump, 7-replaced upper and lower hoses (NAPA) reusing lower hose spring insert, 8-add 2gals Zerex G05, top off with distilled, 9-replaces wheel liner. Total time about three hours including parts chasing.



Thanks for ALL the replies.

 

[rscurtis]

I got tired of the NAPA "lifetime" warranty on the pump for a Caddy with the HT4100 engine. They would last 4-5000 miles and fail without warning. The bearings would go bad but they wouldn't leak. Of course, that wasn't a 1/2 hour job like it is on the Dodge.



I had the intention of replacing it with an OEM part, but a rod bearing went and the car went to the scrapper. It belonged to a past employee, it was a hand-me-down from his parents. Nothing that I would own.



Hopefully, you'll have better luck with your NAPA "lifetime" pump.

 

[Prairie Dog]

a rod bearing went and the car went to the scrapper. It belonged to a past employee, it was a hand-me-down from his parents. Nothing that I would own.



Hopefully, you'll have better luck with your NAPA "lifetime" pump.

Well you played that one smarter than me. When our Caddy developed the dreaded knock I spent an entire weekend laying under it and pushing new bearings in. Problem solved except a few weeks later it blew a head gasket.



Wish I'd have scrapped mine too (but the wife liked it soo much).

 

[Wingate]

never had to work on one, but always heard the HT4100 was more shop hungry than a 6 liter Powerstroke... I spent all my time back then repowering cars and trucks that were originally equipped with the Olds diesel!!. . Was too busy with those to take on any more work. .

 

[Prairie Dog]

Ah yes, the engine that soured everyone on the idea of having a diesel until Dodge finally came out with the Cummins.

 

[rscurtis]

never had to work on one, but always heard the HT4100 was more shop hungry than a 6 liter Powerstroke... I spent all my time back then repowering cars and trucks that were originally equipped with the Olds diesel!!. . Was too busy with those to take on any more work. .

I had one of those, it pulled the wrist pin out of a piston at 4300 miles while the engine was idling. The engine just stopped with a clunk. The dealer short blocked it, even though all it needed was a new piston. I quickly sold it before their bad reputation really got out. The person I sold it to ran it over 100K miles with no issues.

 

[BGlidewell]

My method if anyone else needs to replace theirs:

Step 1- Remove right wheel well liner to ease access of lower hose, 2-remove radiator cap & lower hose drain into large container. 3-remove left fan shroud bracket (3bolts for ease of pump removal), 4-I use 20" long 1/2" ratcheting torque wrench on the tensioner to release belt from AC pump, 5-remove old pump & check tension pulley for smoothness (mine was like new), 6-install new pump, 7-replaced upper and lower hoses (NAPA) reusing lower hose spring insert, 8-add 2gals Zerex G05, top off with distilled, 9-replaces wheel liner. Total time about three hours including parts chasing.

Thanks for ALL the replies.

If you want to replace all the antifreeze at the same time this would be a way to go. For me, I just removed the belt, no hoses, air-box with one 10mm nut and pulled the WP out through that void. I only lost about 1. 5 gallons of coolant just pulling the WP off. NAPA sells G05 for ~15. 00/gallon.