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coolant suggestions

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nv4500 help again

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I need to clean out my coolant system and replace with new coolant. any body got any neet tricks/tips to do this and a suggested brand coolant?I'm thinking CAT extended life coolant. I know its CAT not cummins but hey its good and available at any truck stop!!

Chainsaw
 
I intalled one of those flush kits... it's just a "t" that fits into one of your heater lines and has hose threads on it so you can hook a hose up and squirt clean water through your system.



As for coolant, you will want to get diesel-specific coolant. I don't know exactly why, but it's different... anti-corrosion additives etc.
 
CAT as in CAT diesel engines:-laf I should have been more specific I believe it meets cummins specs. where did you get your flush kit? any acids in it cleaners??
 
Nope, no acids or anything... just a regular garden hose! I got mine from a local parts store... it shouldn't be hard to come by.



And I know that Cat is diesel :rolleyes:! I was just generalizing my advice! :D
 
The "diesel specific" coolants you referred to are for engines that suffer cavuitation erosion, something our Super Bs dont get too often. The coolants contain SCA- Supplemental Coolant Additives, that can clog up the cooling system if overdone. THe deopsits you see in your radiator are most likely silicate deposits, not hard water, as many believe. Good grief, does no one else read the magazine? This was not too many issues back- within the last year.



I am running Havoline oragne stuff- silicate free, and approved by Cummins for the B series. I figure if the low silicate is ideal, and the previous owners ran (for God knows how many miles) regular coolant, then the silicate free should balance stuff out.



Daniel
 
Everything that I've read so far states that "cavitation erosion" affects only those engines that have replaceable cylinder liners. Something the B definitely doesn't use. So standard automotive coolant is recommended by Cummins for the B.



reference:



coolant additives



Antifreeze
 
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I just use regular green antifreeze, mixed 50/50 with distilled water if I have it around. Otherwise well water, nothing with clorine in it.

You do not need the coolant compounds that are designed for wet lined engines that cansuffer from cavitaion erosion.

For cleaning the system, Cummins sells something for this... "compleat" perhaps or something like that. It's purpose is to remove the build-up (phosphates?) that attaches to the cast iron. This build up will act as an insulator and prevent good heat transfer.

I think the Prestone flush stuff has a similar effect, but is more diluted.

Jay
 
Originally posted by JLEONARD

I just use regular green antifreeze, mixed 50/50 with distilled water if I have it around. Otherwise well water, nothing with clorine in it.






You can remove virtually all the chlorine from tap water by simply boiling it for at least 15 minutes. I make homebrewed beer (hic) :D and that's how I usually remove the chlorine without removing any of the other minerals which sometimes contribute to the final product. I also have a faucet mounted filter that filters to . 5 microns and that removes 98-99% of the chlorine and just a little bit of the minerals in the water. :-laf



Tom
 
Good grief, does no one else read the magazine?



What and remove the virgin plastic wraper. Then it would be used. We want the NIB (New In Box) look. :-laf :-laf



I haven't read the last 3 or 4 issues. ;)
 
Originally posted by Philip

What and remove the virgin plastic wraper. Then it would be used. We want the NIB (New In Box) look. :-laf :-laf



I haven't read the last 3 or 4 issues. ;)
YeeeHaaaaw Philip,way cool. Oo. :D :-laf :cool:
 
I got Fleetguard compleat premix (won't have to worry about water) and the restore flush stuff to clean what looks like solder bloom in my radiator. Got it @ cummins
 
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