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Could have been ugly...

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SERVO PROBLEMS

Any good shocks cheaper than Ranchos?

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Last weekend we went to visit my parents in Burlington, VT from Boston, MA. Driving up in a nasty spring snow storm with the average speed of 35-40 mph for most of the trip. The usual 3. 5 hour trip took 5. 5 hours. At about the New Hampshire border (not much around unless you know where you are going and the half-way point) we smelled some bad electrical smell. With no smoke and just a smell we kept chugging along. To make the story short, we made it with the windows cracked for about 3 hours. The next morning I replaced the headlight switch. The connector was melted onto the switch where one of the posts was loose. The headlights no longer worked the next morning but they never gave up when I needed them. I know we were very lucky. It was hard enough to see the road with them on. I hope the replacement switch does as well but it didn't look as robust as the one coming out.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors
 
The switches seem to degenerate quickly if yiu have lots of trailer lights or cablights hoocked up. The nice thing is that an aftermarket switch is really cheap (not much more that $10) at a parts house.

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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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It doesn't have extra lights. Not even cab lights. I pull a boat trailer occasionally but it only has tail lights. I wish they would make a better switch. How do you hook up a relay? And where would you get one?
 
Matt there was a post about a headlamp switch repair kit, it includes an improved switch and new connector and wiring, p/n 4886449-AB.
You can look up the post, the topic is "Headlight switch repair kit" and was posted by mark93 on 01/01/2001. I had printed a copy and placed it my manual.

Neil #ad


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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca
 
NEVER had any problem with mine - and we DO pull a trailer with its extra lights... I think it might be a good idea to look into the relay bit to allow the load to be handled by a heavier external relay than directly by the dash switch...

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... Tweaked pump, upgraded radiator... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

"Dura" WHAT? NOW I know where all those recycled beer cans go...

[This message has been edited by Gary - KJ6Q (edited 04-07-2001). ]
 
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Matt,
My parents live in Brandon, VT - just south of Burlington.
It's possible your trailer plug shorted out from all the snow / salt / slush on those New England roads in the Winter, er, I mean Spring. Gotta love it! A shorted out plug would cause a substantial drain on the electrical and running light circut. Something you may want to look into before you go to the trouble of replacing the light switch twice.

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, Banks Intercooler, 'Ol Blue Specials, K&N, Full Boar Muffler, 3" exhaust, Diesel Dynamics Stage 1 kit, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K miles.
 
I've already have the wiring harnesses and new solderless connections to hook up as opposed to the original cut and splice method used. I just don't have the time yet.
 
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