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Could it be, water pump?

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I headed out this weekend for a camping expedition. After parking the truck for a few days, I noticed a sticky mess on the ground toward the front, right side of the truck. I could not tell for sure what the substance was other than sticky. I thought it might be coolant, I did add some coolant to the truck before leaving. That was unusual. The truck seemed to run fine maybe a touch hot (5 or 10 degrees) nothing outrageous. Now that I am home and parked the truck for 2 minutes the truck is leaking pretty good. I have also picked up a slight squeal coming from in the engine compartment that I can't identify. I threw a pan under the truck to catch the fluid. So the question is there any way the water pump could be going bad on an '03 with 120k miles????:{
 
Could be, mine went out around 67k miles. Mine started leaking small puddle and got worse. Wasn't sticky, but you could tell it was coolant.



Mine was replaced under warranty, but it looked like one of the easiest things to replace on the engine.
 
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Definite possiblity, while you're at it, do a complete flush of the system and get some new coolant in there, along with a new T Stat!
 
Haven't tried looked on my 3rd Gen. On my 2nd Gen and other non-DC vehicles you could look up at the waterpump from below with a flashlight. Look for the weep hole for coolant leak evidence. On my 2nd Gen replacing the waterpump was very easy.
 
It certainly DOES sound like a water pump. As ^^^ check out the weep hole. DC says a little weep is normal on the 2006 models, but I do not know about yours. Pums is easy to change, I would also change the t-stat an flush the system and change out the coolant. I would also consider using the Purple Ice radiator formula additive at the same time I did all of this stuff. Lowers the water tension so it helps your system to run cooler. Under a towing load I noticed my truck will run right at 210 or so, the Purple Ice is on my list for adding.



CD
 
I just ordered some Purple Ice for my new 2007. Just like Cdonaldson, my truck will run at 210 when pulling hard in hot weather... I think this stuff is pretty good.
 
I just had my water pump replaced under warranty after only 28,000 miles and 93% of that was just around town driving, no towing. Stock 2006 Laramie 2500 4x4 auto, 4. 10.
 
After leaving a drip pan under the truck overnight. The fluid in the pan was orangish mabe a little pinkish either way I am pretty sure it is coolant. I am sure do for a coolant flush and fill. This just forces my hand a little. Where is a good place to get the replacement part auto parts house or the dealer or maybe a Cummins service center? I have all three pretty close I may do some calling to find out who has the part cheapest.
 
take the belt off

grab the pulley and wiggle. if the seals are shot, you will have lots of play

2 bolts for the water pump
2x4 and a hammer to tap the pump out if it fights you. (leave the bolts threaded in so you don't loose the pump in the engine bay)

slap a new pump in ($60 at auto-zone)

fill with coolant, bleed system, don't look back.

one of the easiest fixes I have done

also, check your overflow hose at the radiator, check to see if your airbox is wet. a hose clamp on that hose will fix that right quick
 
My water pump went out at around 45,000 miles. Started as a small leak from the weep hole and continued to get bigger. Replaced it with a NAPA pump. About a 20 minute job and the NAPA pump has a lifetime warranty.
 
They seem to have a quality control issue with water pumps, mine was bad at 25K, it never overheated, but it started laking a little bit, I just noticed some dry crusty stuff on the ac compressor. When I took it in to have the A/C fixed they said they had to change the water pump out, I was shocked, never had a water pump go out on any vehicle with less than 100K. Looked pretty easy to change though, the water pump doesn't have the fan or fan clutch mounted to it, it is by itself with a little pulley.
 
So the question is there any way the water pump could be going bad on an '03 with 120k miles????:{



I'd add one more suggestion to the list since you have 120,000 miles on the truck: Change out the Accessory Drive Belt if it hasn't been changed already. Since you have to take it off anyway it makes sense to replace it so you don't have to do it a few weeks later. Note that there is an automatic tensioner also. Murphy's Law, you know...
 
Speaking of Murphy's law, I opted to do a flush and fill of the coolant system at the same time I changed over the waterpump and thermostat. By the way it was very easy.



The only snag was my drain valve on the radiator broke :-( I was on my last cycle of the flush and fill when it broke. Lesson here for everyone do not overtighten it cause when she breaks she holds no water. I thought I had the right number of turns out and back in, but apparently not. The only place to get the replacement is the dealer: $5. 23 + the hasle of not having my truck for 3 days. DOUBLE :-(
 
:confused:ok so I might be opening the lid to Pandora's Box here, but here goes. some of you know that I drive fire trucks for a living and crimp wires on the side. So self admittedly, I know that coolant is the florescent green stuff in the radiator. ( or well it should be until I found my truck to have the orange ish pinkish stuff in it ). Im planning on my first flush and replacement of fluid. So does it matter what type goes back in????? green, pink/orange or the "universal" stuff ... ... ... ... ... ... . and of coarse distilled water Oo.
 
:confused:ok so I might be opening the lid to Pandora's Box here, but here goes. some of you know that I drive fire trucks for a living and crimp wires on the side. So self admittedly, I know that coolant is the florescent green stuff in the radiator. ( or well it should be until I found my truck to have the orange ish pinkish stuff in it ). Im planning on my first flush and replacement of fluid. So does it matter what type goes back in????? green, pink/orange or the "universal" stuff ... ... ... ... ... ... . and of coarse distilled water Oo.



Been running good ol' Prestone green in mine the past 150k or so, with a touch of RMI-25 thrown in!
 
sounds like it may be, it depends on what the sticky fluid is and where it's coming from up under the hood. if it is the water pump, it is a 30-45 minute job, drain the radiator around half way (until level is below that of the water pump) take belt off and 2 bolts. From experience, the Napa brand is just as good. a quick note, you may want to chance the belt tensioner while you have to do the water pump.
 
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