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couple electrical ?'s

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ecm bad?

Happy B-Bay J. Wilmoth

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no progress as of yet. haven't gotten a new sender yet and still wondering if i can test the pcm somehow. AND this project has taken a back seat to the old "why is there oil in the pipe between my turbo and innercooler" question. waiting on some parts so i can put it all back together and check blow by to see if it's causing a return restriction for the top turbo.
 
Your thinking is that if there was a restriction in the drain back line, then pressure would build up, blowing the seal, hence oil in the piping?



The wind pipe down the side of the block, to my recolection, is the vent for any blow by. You can open the oil fill tube and rev the engine and see what comes out.



I can't remember, or do no know... . did you siamese your oil drain back tubes for both turbos, or run seperate lines back to the pan?
 
well, i talked with paul at htt, he said there probably is NOT a problem with either turbo. he said the probable cause is a drain restriction. which can be anything from the return hose getting cut when installing and putting a flap of rubber in-line, to excessive blow-by creating too much pressure for the oil to come down the hose. something i'm guessing 400,000+ miles and 50+ psi boost isn't helping. and i am running a separate return line. i dropped the pan and welded a connector as close to the flange as i could. not a significant amount of oil in that turbo, so not worried about that one. just the ol' h1c that's got me wondering.
 
new info

Hey Swank! Took apart a core alternator at work friday,(most of the machines use a W terminal for the tach).

Three wires go to the diode block(rectifier?)from the stator, the center wire goes to the W terminal also. I also found a hall effect switch, but it might be bad, I don't know yet. Then to cap it all off, I got home and my tach was there. :) The instructions look pretty simple, if you have one of their setups. Workin' it from my end-
 
cool. i'm interested in what you come up with. just checked the website and it looks like there will be other people interested as well, because they're all gone! good thing you jumped on it.
 
I just checked the website also, the one that is gone is the black bezel,there was only 1 left,so I bought it. There are still 6 w/ the silver bezel. If we get it to work I'm sure they will all be gone! By the way, where are you gonna mount yours? I haven't figured that out yet! :)
 
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not quite sure yet. been thinking of either making a dash top cluster or figuring out something to replace the stock cluster. i've already got seven of the darn things with more on the way so i've got to figure something out.
 
fusable links

I burned the orange fusible link today. Do I have a short or do these things burn up by themselves. What do I do about it? A neighbor had a Ford that burned the links to the point he replaced them with circuit breakers, is that a good solution? I enjoyed my 10 mile walk back home.
 
Criggs, sometimes you can twist the two ends together for a temp fix. Usually you have too much draw and they get hot and burn up,or a short. You can use resettable circuit breakers, I put one in.

Dave, tried the factory wire for the tach tonite, :( no go. I checked the signal wire w/ a voltmeter and have power, when I turn on the key,the tach drops to zero,so the power works. Obviously the tach won't read the signal from the ECM. :confused: On to plan B,C?,G? :) I'm going to try to add in a W wire in the alternator. I know, i know, take lots of pics! I will keep you posted-
 
Yah baby! :D It works, who da man? :cool: Added in the W wire, started it up and tacharama!

I still need to borrow the photo tach from work to see how accurate it is. Yes I took pics for ya! I'll post them later today, maybe under a new thread,"Adding tach wire to alternator" or something. Sparky stuff is easy for me, if I need twins, I'll call you! :D
 
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