Couple of questions on U-Joints

[machinemover]

I've popped around a little and I am a little leery of replacing my ujoints myself, but the drivetrain shop wants sooo much. 1st off, drive train shop says I must use spicer replacement as the precision 351a are 10,000 to small or to big I forget which he said. problem is he wants $75 per ujoint as aposed to 23. 75 for 351a.
How difficult is it to get the old joints out, can I heat them up with propane torch and bang them out with a socket and hammer?
Also, is the front u-joint a different number? I see listed on rock auto 351a for the rear and center and I am a little concerned about the front one. Last but not least. I have 150,000 on my truck at this point and have never been able to find the front grease sert. I know this has been covered many times, but I still can't find this thing, what am I missing, should I be concerned that this thing is dry? I'm afraid to take it down to the local dodge dealer as I'd be willing to bet they would just skip that sert because there local grease boy can't find the front sert to grease. I pull weight all over the country and don't want to break down again in the middle of nowhere at the mercy of the local Goober.

 

[LRundberget]

I have also heard that the 351a units are slightly too large and I have heard others say they are correctly sized. I have fitted mine with them. I had one joint fail at 36K, completely dry. Put a 351a in and no problems. I used a 20ton a-frame press to install and remove.

The most problems were getting the old ones out (completely seized) than putting the new ones in.

 

[JFaughn]

Its more a mater of knowing the different methods of R&R , mostly once you have seen or done a few , is just good basic mechanic skills , millions have been replace with a hammer & vice [ big enough of both ] .
The newer trucks with aluminum yokes & shafts , should not be hammered .
As for finding the grease zerk , not all [ mostly the original do not have ] or possibly broken off , many like to make sure they get the greasible joints , the replacements come either way .

 

[machinemover]

Thanks for the insight. Still not sure if I want to handle this myself, seeing I don't have a 20-ton press available to me.

 

[DeDecker]

I put the spicers in mine, there not greasable but there told me if you want good hard u joints thats the way to go as far a taking them out, I found out the hard way you have to get the old ones cherry red and melt what ever is in the old ones out and then you can ushally use a vise and push them out. Hope this helps

DeDecker

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I have done it a few times. I don't use a hammer. I press them apart with a bench vice and press the new ones back in the same way. Once the snap rings are out use a socket slightly smaller than the bearing cup and another socket large enough to accept the bearing cup on the other side. It is a lot of fumbling around by yourself. Having a friend help gives you the 3rd hand a mechanic has always wanted. Put in grease-able one ton u-joints of good quality and the job will last a long time. A reputable parts store will steer you in the right direction. Buy from a dealer and you will pay double or triple. You get the same quality at a parts store without the Mopar name.

 

[rbattelle]

Rear driveshaft joints are Precision 351a. These fit without grinding. The 351's are a little too big, and require grinding. I know because I tried both of them personally. I found it was difficult, however, to get the snap rings back into their grooves with the 351a's (indicating these joints are slightly too wide). To simplify things (and keep from over-tightening the joints), I filed down the thickness of the snap rings a bit.

The front axle joints are both Precision 464.

I found the rear driveshaft joints were a BEAR to install and remove, simply because they're so large and use a pretty tight press fit.

Front axle joints are, comparatively, easy to remove and install (they're much smaller).

As was said here and other threads, you have to be cautious doing this alone if you've never done it and never seen it done. It takes a lot of force.

I do my joints using a 2. 5 lb hammer to remove them and the combination of a 3-ton arbor press and that same 2. 5 lb hammer for install. I use no heat - never have.

In my opinion, the trickiest part of the whole job is ensuring the needle bearings in the new caps remain in place during installation. Scares the crap out of me every time I do one - especially those that take large amounts of force.

Here's a link that might be helpful.

When finished, I pump them with grease until it oozes from all 4 caps.

Ryan

 

[JCasper]

I replaced the center joint on my rear shaft using a hammer and bench vise. I also used the Precision 351's, Napa 230-188X joint.



It is physically larger then the factory joint. I had it all back together and could not get the snap rings in. I ran to work real quick and ground down the snap rings on the surface grinder by . 010 each. After that it all worked fine.

 

[COSEng]

I simply ground the end of the caps slightly before installing the 351's. Has worked well for over 50,000.

 

[JCasper]

I simply ground the end of the caps slightly before installing the 351's. Has worked well for over 50,000.

That was my first choice, but they were already pressed in.

 

[DerekW]

TORCH??? 40 TON press??? I do them all the time for my friends and myself beings we go down the beach and 4 wheel in the mud around here that has alot of grit. trucks with 20K miles only a year old to trucks with 5 digit odometers with originals from the 80's (front) never have I had to heat or press them as far as I can recall. hell I dont even own a press and half the time I dont have oxygen for the torch.



I use a warn winch plate I have sittin around with 2 ball mounts (no shop vice or place to set yoke ears on) and my nice snap on hammers, pick set, one of the pairs of pliers best suited for the job,and a screwdriver, and of course the rachet and socket for the new zerk fitting. I beat them right out and in no prob in no time. just make sure no to hit the tube.



make sure you point the zerk fitting so it dont break of when you pull out of driveway.

 

[machinemover]

I found the Neapco 3-0188 for $27. 99 on-line. I was told, These are suppose to be the replacement for the spicer joints. Spicer no longer makes this u-joint and sold the specs to Neapco.

 

[machinemover]

Looks like I'm mistaken correct neapco number is 3-0486[/I]