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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked 53 block replacement ???

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As posted in another thread, I am the proud owner of a cracked 53 block :{ . The repair shop is not having much success in fixing it. So it appears that my options are down to either a block replacement or an engine from a 2002 plus write-off. So my questions are:

1) What would be a good block replacement, the 56 block?

2) Will all of the internal and external parts from the 53 fit? VP44 etc.



OR



3) Go for a newer engine replacement from a write-off?

4) How difficult would it be to setup, say an 2003 block that uses the fuel rail?

5) What about the computer and other electronics?

6) Can I use the old trany or do I need to install a 2003 trany?

7) Will the old drive shaft work?

8) Other issues I have not thought of and I am sure there are many.



:(



Thanks.
 
1. There does not seem to be a prevelant problem with the 55 or 56 blocks, unlike with the 53 blocks.



2. In theory, the internals from your old engine should all fit on the new block.



3. Buying a new long block is very expensive, but if you can find a used motor that runs in a junker, that might be good. Just keep your old engine for parts.



4. Never done a conversion, but I can imagine that it would be a lot of work
 
snowracer69 said:
I have a 55 block that has a crack so shoot for the 56 i guess. I Just discovered my crack Today this sucks. Denis





Is the crack in the same place as the 53's?. I believe your 55 is the first I have heard of. How many miles?. Sorry for the aggrevation you are about to go through.



Dave
 
I'm replying for Denis.



Yes, it appears to be in the same spot on the block as the 53s. Passenger side, behind/below the transmission cooler. He says it's running horizontally along the block and is about 2" long. He's losing a quite a bit of water out of it when he runs the pickup hard. I'll get to see it Saturday, so will report more then.



Josh
 
I'm currently replacing the 53 with a 56. Everything will swap but you have to watch the electronics. In my case, i have a cps wich means i need to use the crank with the tone ring. My new long block came with the wrong crank so i had to do a swap. Depending on milage you will want to replace all your sensors and since it is all out you might as well deal with your transmission and if you are 4x4 what about that transfer case. The list goes on and that money tree in the back yard is looking mighty bare.

I feel your pain, every epoxy repair i tried did not work for long. If money is a concern try the stich method some have had success with it.
 
snowracer69 said:
I'm replying for Denis.



Yes, it appears to be in the same spot on the block as the 53s. Passenger side, behind/below the transmission cooler. He says it's running horizontally along the block and is about 2" long. He's losing a quite a bit of water out of it when he runs the pickup hard. I'll get to see it Saturday, so will report more then.



Josh



Sooooo. Any more information on this 55?.



Dave
 
Holzarbeiter said:
I'm currently replacing the 53 with a 56. Everything will swap but you have to watch the electronics. In my case, i have a cps wich means i need to use the crank with the tone ring. My new long block came with the wrong crank so i had to do a swap. Depending on milage you will want to replace all your sensors and since it is all out you might as well deal with your transmission and if you are 4x4 what about that transfer case. The list goes on and that money tree in the back yard is looking mighty bare.

I feel your pain, every epoxy repair i tried did not work for long. If money is a concern try the stich method some have had success with it.

How everything down your way holding up since all the trouble? So far so good with the replacement here?
 
TSRAM,

I should be back on the road by Monday. Had the transmission redone by a good local guy who through in a couple of his own goodies, bought Goerend triple TQ along with upgraded shift lever (Dave is a great guy), Mach 1. 6 Injectors are on the way, DSS is here and waiting for the install, and the new transmission temp gauge just needs to get hooked up.

I hope the VP44 will be up to the task since it has 130000 on it. If there is anything else you can think that i should do now let me know.



To all cracked 53 owners;

I know it is though once you have been diagnosed with the fatal crack. I thought long and hard about trading in and getting a new one. I will have a new powerplant with the goodies i want, a transmission that should hold up to the power and give me many years of reliable service and no payments. Yes it will end up costing me 5 to 6 grand once its all done but that still beads 5 years of payments as far as I'm concerned.

Good luck to all you fellow 53 owners.
 
The only more I have to report on Denis' 55 block is that I looked at it last week when I was home and there is no doubt it's a crack in the same place as the 53's and that it is definitely a 55 block.



He's still not sure what he's gonna do with it and just keeps pouring water in and driving it... hard! No reason to stop gettin' on it now...
 
Holzarbeiter,

after reading this thread, looking at your location and talking to my buddy john yesterday- i put it all together.

good luck with your new block and mods.

he told me about your transmission upgrades. if they hold i will have the same done to mine.

i have known john g. for over 20 years. it's a small world.
 
I finally had to go the reman block route. Anyone know anything about replacement part numbers? I posted this question on the Cummins powermaster web site.



The part number on the replacement short block is 3935936. There are NO markings on the block but it was manufactured in Mexico.
 
Hey can, Haliburton area here, how much was the reman block ? Mine hasn't cracked yet but I am keeping my options open as to what to do IF it does.



Kirk
 
kah68 said:
Hey can, Haliburton area here, how much was the reman block ? Mine hasn't cracked yet but I am keeping my options open as to what to do IF it does.



Kirk

Cost was about 12K Canadian, re and re, labour and fluids. Also included some dollars for the original repair attempts. Short block was listed as 6800, less taxes.
 
How about using a 12 valve block? When the STORM block came out (#53) everyone liked the reinforcement ribs, etc. Now it turns out the reliable old 12 valve block may be "safer. " I just happen to have a 12 valve block laying around, too. Gee, you could bore it . 040", new pistons, end up with a few more cubes.
 
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