Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked 53 fix idea?? questions

[tractorface]

No My 53 is still in good shape for now but since I have seen so many threads on the problem I have been thinking about a possible solution. Seems tpo me the best fixes I have seen are done using high $$$ special epoxies. I know that you also need to drill both ends of the crack so... ... ... . If you drill and tap both ends of the crack and load up everything with a fancy high tech epoxy could you then bolt a "patch plate" over the repair area using the threaded holes. Seems to me that the plate would help make a nice strong leak free sandwich> Just thinking out loud.



A friend of my fathers owns a machine shop and says he has never had any trouble having blocks or heads welded. Now granted he sends them out to be welded a certain way and that won't save you anything but the cost of the block and at that point most would feel better with a different block but... ... ...



Anyway just trying to be ready in case my number comes up

 

[Monstar]

Has anyone tried lacing these blocks. Works great on older motors... .

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

While it is certainly disappointing to have an engine with a cracked block, in the case of the 53 blocks, it seems the greatest REAL problem/effect, is limited to coolent leakage - which a good brand aftermarket sealer added to the coolent SHOULD take care of. More intensive fixes such as a thorough cleaning around the crack area, and then application if a covering patch with a good epoxy such as JB Weld is a good idea as well - end drilling/plugging of the crack may or may not be beneficial, depending on location and technique used...



Actual welding of a crack might require the block to be totally stripped down, welded with the appropriate materials, then stress-relieved in an oven to avoid later cracks caused by the welding process itself...

 

[Supermod56]

You can TIG weld cast iron, difficult but possible, that is after you remove the engine!! Like Gary said, if I had to do it I would completely disassemble the motor before I did it, then have the main saddles/bores checked/honed. Easier to get another block. I have repaired blocks in the past with JB Weld, works pretty good!



Tom

 

[SBall]

As a prophylactic measure, I think I'll go to the auto parts store and buy about 37 tubes of JB Weld and trowel it on the crack-prone area BEFORE IT CRACKS! :-laf

 

[tractorface]

Hmmm

I have been thinking the same thing :-laf Only trouble is I know my curiosity would lead me to chisel it of at some point just to see if it worked

 

[Holzarbeiter]

Since I'm one of the 53 owners with the cracked block :{ I have been researching this problem for some time now. I have found a product that is called IRONTITE. It is a chemical additive that will ceramic coat the cooling system, it is supposed to prevent rust, seal cracks and sepage on cast iron. Has been used in marine and and heavy duty applications. IRONTITE can be used with no ill effects on the other cooling system components. I have not used this product to date since i'm still trying to locate some, I will post with some results as soon as possible.

To all 53 owners, I would treat your engine with some kind of sealant, once you joined the ranks of the crack, thinks are not pretty. Cummins has changed its approach to this issue and even with some help it will still be an expensive repair, never mind the fact that your truck will be down for some time.

 

[Timbeaux38]

on what part of the block are most of the cracks located?

 

[Holzarbeiter]

Behind the heat exchanger on the passenger side