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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) cracked 53's need to file complaint

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmission shift change

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A good idea. Should pass it by the TDR folks and see if there is an easy way to accumulate the serial numbers -- not as entries in a thread. Threads are hard to read to get the overall picture in a moment or two.
 
"Cheap Fix" for Cracked 53 Block?

Forrest Nearing said:
parts break... I realize we love the Cummins because it DOESN'T break, but the bottom line is the crack is repairable... and it doesn't cost THAT much to repair... it's not an $8k engine replacement anymore... shouldn't cost as much as a transmission rebop for instance. some guys frag trannies at 150k, some guys go 500k on the original... Forrest



Talk about OPTIMISTIC!?!?

With all the horror stories flying around and all the failed attempts at repairs that fail to last, please feel free to expound upon this low-cost, long-lasting repair method you refer to!!!! I have a cracked 53 shortblock in the back of my shop I would love to salvage for cheap if such a fix indeed exists. Oh yes, I will also be replacing my NV4500 before long due to 3rd gear synchro failure. It will likely cost in the area of $1300. I did get 265000 miles out of the original. I believe if someone were to GIVE you a new shortblock, and all you had to do was buy ONLY the absolutely minimum required parts to swap it into your truck, and IF you are capable of doing the work yourself, then you could do so for less than the $1300 transmission swap. However, a lot of the parts going back into your "new" engine would be only as "new" as they were before the engine work. Not a good deal in my book with the amount of work involved with the rebuild. If you're going to take an engine down far enough to replace the block, the prudent thing to do is replace, at the minimum, parts that normally wear the most. Cummins online shop info is a good source for info on what should be changed out.



Really though - What is the cheap fix for a cracked 53 block that you're talking about?
 
53 block

i have a 53 block. so far so good , just passed 350000 kms. truck is basically stock, except for 4 in ext. and k&n. tows only 3000lb. cargo trailer. i did post the cummins s/b on here several months ago . it details the history of the 53 block. didnt raise much interest at the time. , cummins has a specification for this block, which they give to the foundry to cast the blocks. i understand that the foundry miss read the drawing ,and made the block too thin . if this is correct it would seem that cummins would have a warrenty case against the foundry. unless in order to get a lower price they accepted them without a warrenty. would be interesting to know the answer to that question. another question if cummins sold the engines to d/c with a known defect , even without warrenty seems d/c would have a case against cummins. i wonder if d/c is getting paid from cummins for the defective blocks they are replacing under warrenty ? just trying to think out side the box. :--) :confused: :confused:
 
I say we invade Mexico and round up those responsible. Make em go work for Ford... ... ... ... . maybe that has already been done. Sorry :-laf :-laf



I sweat mine every day
 
TStinson said:
Really though - What is the cheap fix for a cracked 53 block that you're talking about?



do a search on the board, lots of fixes have been listed... even if it costs a few hundred dollars, it's considerably less than a new block. people have been repairing cracked iron heads and blocks for decades...



again, it's a non-structural crack... the block isn't going to fall apart. fix the crack and move on.



Forrest
 
Forrest Nearing said:
do a search on the board, lots of fixes have been listed... even if it costs a few hundred dollars, it's considerably less than a new block. people have been repairing cracked iron heads and blocks for decades...



again, it's a non-structural crack... the block isn't going to fall apart. fix the crack and move on.

Forrest



There are two key parts to my question.

One is cheap, the other is a fix that lasts.

It takes both to address this issue as you are describing it.

I have not seen a fix that lasts, and, is cheap.
 
Can we document the Serial Numbers of these cracked blocks?????

In response to the posting by hammersley on the above topic, I talked with the folks at TDR today.



The following are my words and I feel they summarize the conversation.



The intent of collecting the serial numbers is a nobel undertaking but it cannot be done via the TDR site. The activity may have a negative effect on TDR/Cummins communication lines which, in the long term, would not benefit the members
 
TStinson said:
There are two key parts to my question.

One is cheap, the other is a fix that lasts.

It takes both to address this issue as you are describing it.

I have not seen a fix that lasts, and, is cheap.



I haven't heard of any rational fixes that DIDN'T last... I would imagine that drilling the ends of the crack and slapping JB Weld over it would hold! LOL!



Forrest
 
Forrest Nearing said:
do a search on the board, lots of fixes have been listed... even if it costs a few hundred dollars, it's considerably less than a new block. people have been repairing cracked iron heads and blocks for decades...



again, it's a non-structural crack... the block isn't going to fall apart. fix the crack and move on.



Forrest



Well, I know mine did not crack from rust. So it must be some kind of structure. I personally do not think any repair is going to hold unless you can do the whole side of the block. I seriously doubt the defect is the width of a welding rod. My personal feeling is if you do not fix what caused the crack in the first place I doubt a patch will fix the defect. Whether it is the ribbing that causes stress as Cummins stated to me or a thin casting both are structural.



Dave
 
cracked 53 block

for those who have not seen the cummins report on the problem, here it is.

customers have been complaining of coolant leaks which has

been traced to a visible crack in the cylinder block . the crack is hortizonal and located on the exhaust side of the block below the large cup plugs and behind the turbocharger.

a similar issue was experinced on a few industrial oems in the past using the pre- storm cylinder block. the crack appears hortizonal on the exhaust side below the large cup plugs holes,between 4&5 cylinders. at a piont where the straight section of the block blends into the curve . cracks initiated on the inner wall of the block and grew to the outer wall.

this was traced to a combination of stresses caused by cylinder head assembly loads, cylinder firing pressures, and thermal and residual stresses which are aggrevated by the specific customer application . with the introduction of the storm cylinder block,there has been a rise in similar block cracking in specifically the same area in light duty cycle and automotive applications.



corective action summary.

the high strength version of this storm block refered to as pattern 54 was adopted to address this block cracking . the area under the large cup plugs has been re- designed to incorporate a larger radius in the water jacket and a rubbed core to eleminate the parting line. the wall thickness has been increased from 5. 5 mm to 11. 0 mm

this failure mode has been replicated in a test cell using the old cylinder block. with the high strength block engineering has not been able to duplicate the failure under similar conditions . all thermal cycling tests on the re- designed block have been sucessful.



THIS REPORT FROM CUMMINS DATED 01/19/2000



A NOTE AT THE END READS

THE ORIGIONAL BLOCK HAS BEEN AVAILABLE FOR SERVICE SINCE MARCH 29/ 1998. PRODUCTION IMPLIMENTATION OF PATTERN 54 WILL BE IN PRODUCTION FOR ALL MARKETS STARTING IN APRIL 2000.



HOPE YOU FIND THIS INTERESTING.
 
Cracked Block

I have the cracked block. I thought for certain when I found it that DC would take care of me. I had 87000 miles on the truck at the time. Have gotten no where with Dodge or Daimler Chrysler. Now I know why. They have had problems with this block. I just looked at mine, but after reading all of the comments, I already knew that it would be a #53. Are they all cracking at the same spot. Mine is on the right side behind the oil heater, where the block curves up and away. I am thinking about trying the "Lock n Stitch" repair. If it holds, it will be cheaper than replacing the short block.



Paul
 
cracked blocks, 53

For those who have cracked blocks in CTD engine should contact

the BBB nearest them, or located in you state. There is information

on this in your operator's manual. Also the people who have already

repaired their trucks should raise up and get to work on this.

The first thing is to gather all the threads on this and the bills where

you have repaired the vehicle, also a written estimate as to what

the dealer will charge to replace the engine and then send it to the

BBB. Do some cordinating on this.



The arbitrators who do this work at the BBB are not paid but

do this work on a volunteer basis, or at least when I used to make

claim. Once the award is made both parties have to agree to it

and there is no appeal, even in the courts. They awarded me the

case every time, even though GM had repaired the pump free 2

times previously.



The important thing is to have proof, they need to know that

it is a problem in many vehicles.
 
I just had my 53 block repaired by "Lock 'n Stitch" in Turlock Calif. It took about 6hrs and no leaks in the 100 mile drive home. I talked to the machinist and he said that he had done several, but this was the first auto trans. He said they were usually one tons with standard trans. He felt that the cracks were being caused by the torque on the blocks caused by starting with heavy loads. Said that the way the engine and trans were mounted contributed to the problem.



In reading some of the comments from those with cracked 53, I noted that most have performance enhancements. I have a chip but also an ATS triple disc lock up clutch torque converter. It has a much lower stall, and really hooks up. When the converter locks up, it is immediate with very little slippage. I think that this puts a lot of torque on the block under load.



Lock 'n stitch does mostly heavy commercial equipment. They manufacture the products they use and sell them to machine shops. You can do a search on metal stitching or lock n stitch to find their web site. They claim the repair is permanent. I guess I'll find out.



Paul
 
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