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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked Block Repaired - Break-In Recomendations

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear end leaking

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pac Brake

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My truck is finally back from the shop. About a month ago, I noticed a slight smell of coolant and couldn't trace the leak. After pressure testing my block, a 2" crack was found on the passenger side between two of the freeze plugs (FYI... 111,000 miles). I thought I was totally down and out... the dealer wanted me to spend major bucks to replace the engine. There was no way I was going to accept their response to swap the engine, especially since I expected to get 300,000+ miles out of my Cummins. In the end, after many phone calls, I was able to get Cummins to warranty the block... they basically provided a new (improved to resist this problem) short block and I had to supply $ for the labor. Unfortunate that I experienced the problem but, I'm happy with the end result... defintiely disappointed with Dodge's response.



Cutting to the chase...



What break-in process should I follow? I know it's better to load the truck for break-in (i. e. loaded break-in would be ~5K miles... . unloaded break-in period could be ~20K miles). Just looking for recomendations of what to do or not to do, so I don't hurt my investment.



Thanks in Adavance!
 
just vary the rpms, and run it hard. that is all i have ever done and heard to do. and change the fluids after a few hundred miles.
 
I went through the same thing. Asked the Cummins mechanic about break in or any special instructions. His reply was nothing special and no break in required. I have driven it the same as I did before the 53 cracked although the 3500 mile round trip to Northern CA. towing the 5ver probably helped seat everything. I would not use synthetic oil for the first 10k miles though.



Dave
 
Hollywud - what'd it cost for the labor? Seems like you got a good Cummins place, to cover it after the 100k. I would expect DC to balk at anything over 100,001 miles
 
Thanks for the advice so far!!! Everyone has summed up my plans so far... vary RPM's (total PITA on the highway)... planed on changing the oil @ 500 miles... stick my trailer behind it for a few weeks of back and forth to work driving.



Regarding synthetic oil, Cummins states on their website that it is acceptable after break-in. The only issue is that they give a break-in range anywheres from 5K to 20K, depending on the load the truck is driven with. I was running Amsoil before the block was replaced and am now running "dino" oil with the rebuilt block. As soon as I can, I want to switch back to Amsoil.



All the above is pretty much standard afair on everthing I've ever owned... from bikes to cars. Race cars we pretty much just pound the living daylights out of the engine right off the bat... never want a failure during a race (besides the fact that we're rebuilding constantly).



I don't think it was the fact that I found the correct shop to warranty the block at 111,000 miles... . I received this right from Cummins direct (I did the leg work). The shop I used only services commercial vehicles (i. e. my Ram was the smallest thing in their garage) and I was hooked up by a friend who has a dealer/repair license... otherwise they would never have worked on my truck. Grand total I paid ~$5400... that's ~$700 for parts (serpentine belt, water pump, oil pump, thermostat, oil, filter, etc) + ~$4700 for labor.



All in all, I'm super happy with my "new" truck... stinks that I had to shell out over $5K but it's better than what the dealer wanted ($14K to swap the engine).
 
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