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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) cracked manifold

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Don's new Mach 3.8's

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil Change Question

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Well it has finally happened to me. When checking the oil thes AM I noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold right in the middle on top, not spitting fumes yet but just a matter of time. Now I am thinking about the ATS three piece for the 1996 12 valve. How difficult is the job? What is the going price, manifols, gaskets, bolts, etc. Do they come drilled for a pyrometer probe? What are the do's and don'ts of tapping cast iron?

jbrowne :confused:
 
check out the guys at hytech turbo they sell an exhaust manifold it comes pre drilled for the pyro and i think it runs around $430 i am getting one tommarow and will be installing it tomarrow night if you want here is their web address www.htturbo.com ill let you know how hard it was when i get mine done
 
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cahammer said:
check out the guys at hytech turbo they sell an exhaust manifold it comes pre drilled for the pyro and i think it runs around $430 i am getting one tommarow and will be installing it tomarrow night if you want here is their web address www.htturbo.com ill let you know how hard it was when i get mine done

Comes assembled. My cup of tea. :D
 
When I put my ATS it was harder than everyone said it would be. I bolted the center section to the old manifold, then I hammered the outboard sections on one at a time using the flange face as a template. I stopped hammering when I was able bring them into alignment with a set of bolts. A fully assembled manifold would be much easier.
 
Mine went together pretty easy. Put the outer ends in the freezer. Center section was put on a spare tire in direct sunlight. Lots of anti-seize. Went surprisingly easy. :D
 
Yes I did. The freezer trick is one that I picked up from here. :D HIGHLY recommend it.



Used the stock manifold as a general guide. It was shrunk enough that it was off a fair amount. I loosely bolted the center section so I could start the bolts on the rest. I did have to pull it off once to make an adjustment. Drove it in a tad to far. After that, I put the gaskets in place and bolted it up. Had to use the rubber mallet to make a few corrections, but it didn't take much.
 
Freeze the ends w liquid co2 (wear some gloves for safety and it should slip right together with a tap or two from the mallet). Hint a CO2 fire ext. would work. I have a 20 lb. CO2 cylinder that I test a/c expansion valves with. . No need to go this high end.



It will also chill a soda pop in a flash on a hot day. Oo.



If the manifold is coated use some sharp drills and take your time not to chip the coating or it might start flaking.



The coater that I use prefers that I drill and tap first, then have the ceramic "power coat" applied.

I asked them how they coat it without filling up the threads or did they chase it with a tap afterward, they grinned and replied "their secret" anyhow no one complains flaking coating.



Its a great mod and far better than stock.



Good luck

Andy
 
Cooker said:
Actually is appears the opposite is true. They went down in price from $460 to $410. The $595 was for one that was ceramic coated and assembled.



Oh, you are right. I didn't read it that close. Was rushing a bit this morning. :rolleyes:
 
Andy Redmond said:
I asked them how they coat it without filling up the threads or did they chase it with a tap afterward, they grinned and replied "their secret" anyhow no one complains flaking coating.



They plug the hole when they spray it and remove the plug before they cure it.
 
Ordered my ATS this AM

Ordered the three piece this AM, should be here Thursday and with all the good info from my TDR friends I don't antisipate any problems. Thanks Gang!!! Will keep you posted.

jbrowne
 
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