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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Crancase Vent Tube

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission swap 4.10s for 3.54

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I am wondering where & what parts you all use on your 24V engines to relocate the crankcase vent tube. Thanks



Jack
 
There is a thread that explained the relocation of CCV to valve cover. I ,like a lot of others, just extended the vent line down to the sway bar sans the puke bottle.

All you need is a barbed/barbed 3/4" fitting and about 18" of heater hose.

It sure helps keep the engine bay cleaner. Mike
 
I used a piece of chrome tube from a broken chair in the junk and a USED piece of 3/4 heater hose from the trash barrel. Works fine. Total cost... nothing.



Steve
 
Ya mine is nothing special. just some cool looking blue hose a clamp

and a plastic synch strap and it was done. Just a couple of minutes.

Just make sure there are no kinks in it anywhere.



Pete
 
I ran mine down the DS of the frame with 8 feet of hose to a big hole in the frame right above the cross member. Left the bottle on the end of the hose. I figure with the rust issues here in the midwest I will at least save one side of the frame from rusting out. :-laf No more drips in the driveway! Or oil clogged rad! It only took me 2 bottles of Super clean to get the rad oil free. #@$%!
 
fj40charles said:
Do you sell this kit to TDR members directly? Why use ebay if you don't have to?

When I first came out with the idea of machineing up these parts for sale I actualy did offer the kit here in the classifyeds and it was thrown out because they don't take "commercial" adds there. Also most of the TDR feedback here on this were offers on just about what the parts cost me to say nothing of the machining time :-{} . Rarely does any one try to dicker your starting bid on E-bay. IF, I see a interest in them at this price I will eventualy set a Buy It Now price. With a feed back score of 99. 8 on over a Thousand sales, The wife and I very much enjoy working E-bay. Check the feed back comments, Nearly every one has their items "in Hand" 3 days after they pay for it ;) .
 
Dunno WHY some try to make such an easy fix so expensive and complex solution:



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Extend the hose down to the front swaybar, drill a few extra holes in the bottle for improved venting, cover bottle with an old sock for absorbency of oily vapors, secure to swaybar with wire ties - 10 minutes, an old sock you change when you change the oil - DONE!



NAHHhhh - let's do it the harder, expensive and more complex way instead... .
 
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Pretty cool for down & dirty however, I like mine better!



After screwing around with several different renditions over a period of a few years, I settled on something I like very much.



I sourced several different pre-formed 3/4" dia. heater core hoses from NAPA. Together with a few 3/4" couplers, I cut the hoses as required to effectively extend my breather hose to about the middle of the open horizontal square tube on my 1st gen. DSS. The end of the hose is wrapped with a layer of oil absorbant matting wire-tied to the hose periphery. A periodic glance inside the opposite end of the DSS tube with a flashlight dictates when the matting needs to be changed.



:D
 
Walt,



Nice engineering job Looks Like that will work as well.....



But I like my cleaner looking valve cover... . Now I don't have the bottle on it but one could if they wanted..... But the Ram head cap cover looks awsome here



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EricBu12 said:
Walt,



Nice engineering job Looks Like that will work as well.....



But I like my cleaner looking valve cover... . Now I don't have the bottle on it but one could if they wanted..... But the Ram head cap cover looks awsome here



Eric, Its your vented VC that gave me the idea for putting it up through the filler cap in the first place. NOW, you can about stand that RAM on its nose and it won't puke oil like it was coming out of a hose :-laf . To me, its little things like that, that warrent a bit more effort on the subject. And your right about the looks department, "Looks" AND practicality, your hook up -can not- be beat!
 
My 98 1/2, I made the sink trap. Out the gear cover, elbowed it up to almost touches hood, then down below the frame. No noticable oil spots anymore.
 
Did mine this weekend,(as well as a rad flush)---not as nice as some methods mentioned above,but i just extended the hose down to the outside of the frame below the drivers side intercoolerboot,right under the washer bottle to the frame. Just have to take a quick glance every now and then to check for the odd drip,maybe do what Gary suggested with the sock---we'll see ;) . Reguards,DW
 
jjordan1 said:
I complained to my dealer & they have a notice out to fix @ NO CHARGE. Check w\ dealer first!

From what I understand quite alot of stuff on the right side of the engine has to be removed and replaced for a new vented side panel. Years ago, I made up my mind that unless it was SERIOUS engine work, NO ONE with questionable mechanical skills will EVER touch one of my vehicles again!

When someone has possitive results from a dealer mechanic, I find that remarkable and inspirering. :D
 
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