Archived crank gear

[stone4x4]

crank gear HELP

truck is a 1992 dodge CTD 5 speed 4x4 with 300K on the clock

had a bolt back out of the timing case

it took a tooth off the cam gear and crank gear and stoped the gears but the crank turned 90* off breaking or shearing the crank key/dowl pin#@$%!

i know how to get the crank out

is thers any way to pull the crank gear off without removing the crank

and any one have a goog deal on the gears?

i am in a fix it is my work truck

Thanks,Stone

 

[bmoeller]

Never had them off of a Cummins before, but you might need to heat things up to remove the gears. Cam anyways.

 

[kenny61]

i would call the dealer / parts guys and see if they sell a crank gear. if they dont then you know the gear don't come off. If they do you can get the gear since you need a new one any way and figure out how its attached

 

[stone4x4]

i know the gears come off i've had to buy a crank for a 4bt before

i'm just trying to find out if it can be done in the block

 

[kenny61]

according to the srvice manual it just slides off after unbolting the cam gear. so yes you should be able to take it off with out removing the engine. but since you said it rotated on the key it might be wedged on now requiring a puller or prying so it would depend on what you can fit in there to get it off. on a side note depending on how far out of whack everythiing got you may have had piston to valve contact... .

 

[stone4x4]

thanks for the help but i think the only way is the torch:-laf

 

[kenny61]

I would be careful with the torch and try to talk to an "expert" the crank probably has some type of heat treating to it to make it harder and keep it from twisting if it gets to hot from the torch I believe it would effect the hardness.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The valves most likely hit the pistons and they are “tweaked” so you should remove the head and do a valve job. While doing that, upgrade to the newer head gasket, Cummins #3283335. You should pull the camshaft because the gear presses onto the snout of the cam and if you try to heat the gear enough to slip it onto the cam, it may likely crack at the webs between the hub and the gear portions. If the cam slides back, it can dislodge the soft plug at the back of the cam hole in the block, and then you will get a major leak into the bell housing area. To remove the cam, you need to remove the rockers and pushrods (keep them in order). The lifters can be held up with ½” diameter wooden dowels and a30”+ length of 2” exhaust pipe as backup so they can't fall off. Cut slits in the ends of the dowels lengthwise and chamfer the ends a bit to get them into the tops of the lifters and to hold there. The crank gear presses onto the crank and has a round dowel to index it. I haven't tried pressing on a new one, but you should be able to do it using the bolt holes in the front end of the crank. If you just hit the gear with a hammer and piece of pipe, you risk cracking the thrust area of the block. When you reassemble, clean the bolts and holes and loctite the gear case retaining bolts that are inside the case. Also, use a tab or other method to positively retain the “killer” dowel pin that indexes the gear case. The pin is just above the cam gear, inside the gear case, and near the fan hub.