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Crankcase blowby bottle

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Resonance is back,need help

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I just changed my oil for the first time today. 2001. 5 4X4 2500. Built 10/2000. (3000MI)I was shocked to see oil dripping from my auto trans cooler lines by the radiator. I also found oil dripping from the front steering parts.

After carefull inspection I found the oil was coming from the plastic breather bottle on the front timing cover. The oil was being blown downwards and rearwards by the cooling fan.

After taking it off and looking at it, I found a very small amount of oil residue in the bottom of the bottle. (1/8 inch deep) It was apparent the oil on the trans lines and suspension parts was coming from the four open holes on the sides of the bottle. It appears the design has the open holes which allow the bottle to "To breath".

This is a piece of junk. A really poor design. I can't believe Cummins would put this on their engine. It's an insult. Does anyone have a fix for this design flaw?

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<font color=blue>Do a search on breather bottle or blow by bottle and you will get alot of threads discusing this very same problem. Also many solutions on previous threads. Geno's actually sells a relocation kit, but its not the only way to go..... I suggest ya read the old threads and decide for yourself.
 
Desert Rat,there is some maintenance involved in h keeping the bottle and your underside clean. Also,it will get better once you engine is broke in completely. Meaning less blowby and cleaning.

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2001 HO 6spd,Quad cab,LWB,4x4,Flame Red,all options except for leather,Westin Brushguard/Push bar,Painless wiring,Radio Shack CB( so what it works},my own designed CB mount,Smittybuilt nerf bars,NW Custom rocker covers,Custom built stainless rocker light bars(more to come)
 
Loose that stinkin bottle. You and the truck will be happier. I did a re-route using 3/4" heater hose, keeping a downward flow, to it's final destination, near the transmission. I also put a "L" shapped pvc fitting on the end to keep the vapors pointing down and away from the truck. Works great and cost all of maybe $15. 00. As Kat stated, do a search on this site and you will find alot of good ideas. You might want to add a bottle at the end, if you are concerned about drips.

Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and oil temp gauges,Edge EZ,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!! I love the smell of diesel in the morning, it reminds me of... . VICTORY !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089604" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>THE SAINTS</font></A>
 
I used clear 3/4" hose and ran it all the way to the rear bumper along the frame. Been that way for 5K miles. Works great, no more sludging up the truck...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
Has anyone tried the Walker Air Sep system. If so, how did it work for your application? It wouold appear to be a good solution for the problem.
 
Not to throw poo on an established product, but I just don't like the idea. One "Mists" the impeller with oil/vapor and feeds it to the combustion process? Now lets think about where this oil/vapor goes. (I'm opperating under the assumption that the crankcase emissions are feed to the intake tract)

1) It hits the impeller, if it vaporizes and leaves a film on the impeller (used oil may have some solid components/contaminants), said residue, as it accummulates could take the impeller out of balance, and result in a worn turbo. (IN THEORY)

2) If said oil and/or vapor get passed the impeller, it is OFF to the cold intercooler core... THE PERFECT PLACE FOR SAID MIST/VAPOR to condense, potentially "fouling" the core of the intercooler with a insulating film of oil/vapor slime that will decrease the efficiency of the intercooler itself.

My lil bro has a rice burning gasser that has a closed crankcase system (good 'ol EPA) and upon removing his intercooler it had a nice layer of gook from 60K of usage.

I'd ask their engineer how they address/mitigate both the aforementioned concerns.

JMHO

Max

[This message has been edited by Mad Max (edited 01-08-2001). ]
 
Originally posted by Mad Max:
Not to throw poo on an established product, but I just don't like the idea. One "Mists" the impeller with oil/vapor and feeds it to the combustion process? Now lets think about where this oil/vapor goes. (I'm opperating under the assumption that the crankcase emissions are feed to the intake tract)

1) It hits the impeller, if it vaporizes and leaves a film on the impeller (used oil may have some solid components/contaminants), said residue, as it accummulates could take the impeller out of balance, and result in a worn turbo. (IN THEORY)

2) If said oil and/or vapor get passed the impeller, it is OFF to the cold intercooler core... THE PERFECT PLACE FOR SAID MIST/VAPOR to condense, potentially "fouling" the core of the intercooler with a insulating film of oil/vapor slime that will decrease the efficiency of the intercooler itself.

My lil bro has a rice burning gasser that has a closed crankcase system (good 'ol EPA) and upon removing his intercooler it had a nice layer of gook from 60K of usage.

I'd ask their engineer how they address/mitigate both the aforementioned concerns.

JMHO

Max

[This message has been edited by Mad Max (edited 01-08-2001). ]

Good points made. I don't like the idea of the "Cooled down" oil mist puddling in the intercooler. #ad


But, someone needs to come up with an idea for a closed system like a gas engine. This would get rid of the blow by problem for good. Also, it would stop any preasure caused oil seal leakage. Any takers? Could be worth a lot of bucks to someone.
 
I say let rip- free and easy - no bottle! My 99 has 68,000 and I have NEVER had a drip on my driveway. Yes, there is a slight film on my steering cross-arm at oil change. Just give it a wipe off and she's good to go. I don't see what the need is for a bottle. There's virtually nothing to catch. I guess some have some major blow-by. Did you break-in the engine at all?
 
I'm with you Highland. Unless you have a real case of the "Drip", don't bother fussing with it. My '99 works hard and long after I turn the key, haven't seen anything more than minor vapor on anything. My cure would be... find yourself a long steady grade out on the freeway somewhere to clean things out. Load that truck or trailer and let her warm up to 195 or 200 degrees at 2450 rpms till reaching the top. I have seen a lot of engines run better after a good honest work out than I have ever seen milling around town at idle. You might be surprised to see the "Drip" disappear with a good warm up. Those temps are not hot for water temperature. Just don't turn the engine off at the top.
 
Believe me. I live in the So. Cal. desert. #ad
Normal daytime temps are about 110 in the summer. I have two big, long, steep hills to climb everyday coming home from work.

Trying to break it in, as I don't tow, on several occasions I have taken the truck up to speed where it won't downshift and then ran it wide open up the hills. #ad
It will do about 80 MPH in overdrive with the converter locked up up these hills. #ad


I ordered the bottle kit from Geno's this week. I will install it this weekend. That should stop the oil mist from screwing up my clean engine compartment.

As I am a neat freak, I would go nuts trying to keep it clean otherwise. #ad


[This message has been edited by Desert Rat One (edited 01-10-2001). ]
 
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