cranked for 3 min after Fuel Filter change

[Fiver]

For the record, my used filters have never been all that dirty, just sort of off color. I've been changing them at about 10k. Also for the record, would be nice to know how many have experienced injector contamination following priming the canister with fresh fuel. Anybody out there?

 

[lschultz]

INJECTOR CONTAMINATION from changing fuel filter??Son has close to 100000 on his 99 and I have 51000 on 2000. We change fuel filters every 10000 and no problems. This is what we do. Drain fuel,wipe out bottom of canister(never been anything in it),fill canister 2/3 full with fresh filtered diesel,put new filter in,torque cap,turn key on to cycle lift pump,turn key back on to bump starter,let it cycle through(30-40 secs)then start truck. Son has done this probably 10 times and me 5. Worked every time!

 

[Fiver]

Ischultz, please pardon my ignorance, but how do you filter the fresh fuel? Seems like the best of both worlds if we knew how to do this.

 

[LSMITH]

Filtering the fresh fuel is as easy as letting the lift pump fill the can with the filter installed. It is designed to do it, it likes to do it, and will not hurt a thing. On the 00 and up trucks with the housing with the big plastic lid you can make a hose to go onto the injection pump schraeder valve and the other end into a can or bucket. I have seen one of these made by JohnRV4, it is as slick as can be. When you get fuel with no bubbles coming out of the hose disconnect it. For the 00 and older with the aluminum filter head just loosen the plug closest to the center and bump the starter, tighten when you get fuel out. It really can't get much simpler.

 

[lschultz]

Fiver-Around here most of the diesel you get at a station runs through some sort of a filter so its clean fuel. Me-I store my diesel in a 55 gal. drum for my tractor. When we change filters we pump(has filter on it that takes out water too) just enough out to fill canister 2/3 full(more it we can get it in). So far we've had no problems.

 

[Snow man]

This is one area where my booster pump is very nice,after i change the filter, I simply crack the line on the VP44,since i have the rays banjos on it,and move the power wire on the relay from #87,to 87a-which is hot with relay not energized,with my drain pan under the truck, ilet the booster pump run about 10 seconmds,it will push all the air right thru the filter housing,after its all fule,tighten the line up,slip the connector back onto terminal 87,then fire it up. The first time did this,i forgot to move the fuel pump terminal back to 87,and when the relay energized,when it startedmthe booster pump shut off,I watched my fp guage go into vacuum,it was reading -4 at idle,i quickly shut down,and hooked it up right,I know for sure now if my booster pump quits,i cannot drive the truck,at all,it blocks fuel flow.

 

[pwr2tow]

Do not use ATF. It has friction modifiers in it that can ruin the vp44 pump. The mechanical pumps were fine to use it in but the vp has tighter clearances and tolerances, and todays ATF is formulated different than yesteryears ATF. Like stated before the ATF is not designed to burn and can leave trace elements in the piston rings.



I have noticed on my truck if the engine engages or starts and shuts down right away, the bump the starter does not work for turning the lift pump on. I have to allow the truck to sit for awhile before I can bump the starter and the lift pump will run. To confirm this Try this on your truck, run the engine for a while then shut it off and bump the starter, the lift pump should not run.



I think the best way to prime the filter and get air out of the system after a filter change is to use a air nozzle in the fuel filler with a rag stuffed around it and pressureize the system then open the bleeder on top of the filter houseing or open the drain on the filter houseing.



Ron

 

[azcummins]

Ron-

thanks for the heads up. I guess I could always change the FF @ the pump and then jump use the high flow truck pumps to fill the canister! :--)