Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Crankshaft positioning sensor

[CDenton]

Hey guys. I have done this in the past but it has been a few years, could somebody refresh me as to location, steps and what tools are going to be required to replace this? I just can't quite recall. Thanks.

 

[Joe Mc]

It's been a few years for me too, but as I recall: remove the started and it's right there. Best if the engine is warm so the part can wiggle out once you unfasten it. Don't try to turn it out it will break for sure, just wiggle a little then try to pull out, push in, pull out repeat till it comes out. Regular hand tools - disconnect batteries.

 

[Sticks]

Once you get the CPS out, take a small screwdriver and try to wiggle the tone wheel (DON'T FORCE IT!) Your finger is better if you have long skinny ones. Rotate the engine 180* and repeat.

Inspect the face of the old CPS for any scratches or scoring. If the CPS is damaged on the face, your tone wheel may be coming loose = bad juju.

 

[BK]

just came in from doing mine...

need to remove neg cables from the batteries.

need to remove starter, need a 10mm box wrench,
( I found the "I-Force wrench" from Craftsman worked Great , just long enough (longer than a standard box-combo wrench) but short enough to fit in, and then the GearWrench flex head 10mm helped in making it easier the rest of the way and more so for the top bolt. ) (no need to remove the cables from the starter)

I think it was a 10mm for the bolt that holds the bracket to the block for the CPS (CKP in the FSM). just used a socket and 3/8 drive for that bolt.

Mine wouldn't wiggle for anything, broke the leg of the sensor with the electrical contacts in it.
I took the bracket off from the sensor.
Drowned the sensor / block with PBlaster, and went off and found a cheapo short / thin open end wrench I had , was close but was too small, so took the dremel with a cut off abrasive blade and made the U of the open end the right size to fit on the Square sections of the sensor that the bracket engages too.
That did the trick, lots of good meat to bite into with the open end and was able to start it rotating and wiggling and pulling and it slowly came out.

I tried with all sorts of pliers to no avail, that modified wrench is a keeper now for that sensor for me.

The new one was real tight going it even with oil on it. Felt like I would have to beat it in. I felt in the hole and there was a lip of rust on the outer edge of the block hole/sleeve for the sensor.
I took some 220 wet/dry sand paper and cleaned it up, new sensor went in nice after that. twisted in nice and easy.

I put some contact grease into the sockets on the connector on the wireloom, and reinserted the connector. .

Put the truck back together, cleared the codes, test drive, and so far soo good.