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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) crap, that starter contact thing doesn't give you any warning

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) friction modifier

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP 44 dead

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On a '98 it's the only relay there. The other would have been for the fuel heater relay in earlier trucks. In '98 that was moved to the PDC.

Kim
 
Ack! My starter quit about a half hour ago. Ran for three days like the batteries were dying, but I've been on a job all week, and it always eventually started, so I hadn't brought it in yet for testing.



Then, tonight I start it up and notice a metallic clang to the normal rattle, but since I had my exhaust modified yesterday, I assume that's it. WRONG.



Not until ten minutes later, when I notice smoke coming out of the hood and I try to shut the motor off, do I find the truth. Starter won't quit, I fumble for a crescent wrench and get the batteries disconnected. Smoke pours out of the nipple at the base of the starter.



My question: what else did I fry? Starter ran for 10 straight minutes.
 
I have been reading this thread and now it has me wondering about my starter. I have 54000 miles on my truck, at what mileage does it require replacing the contacts? I realize that it depends on how many starts you have but in general terms how many miles mean bad contacts? Thanks
 
It's all about the number of starts, not mileage. Mine went out at approx 55,000 miles. My best guess was about 4,500 starts (2 per day - to and from work, 5 days per week, plus 4 per day avg weekend, etc... )
 
I believe contact life has a lot to do with the condition of the batteries. If one battery goes bad it will still crank but the lower battery power seems to accelerate the contact wear/arcing. It seems the average contacts usually give up between 100k-150k. I just had one customer tell me he is replacing his origional contacts at 240,000mi. I asked him about his batteries and he told me he has replaced them both every fourth year religiously since he bought the truck new.



And you're right Scott. I have yet to hear of anyone wearing out the Super Contacts. I'm sure they will, eventually.



Larry
 
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What needs to be replaced when you get the click... click... . vroom?? First time it happened was about a month ago and I was a good 150 miles from anytown. It's getting to the point now where it does it almost everyday.
 
Nate,



It's time to order the contact kit from LarryB. If the starter sticks you may burn up your fuel solenoid.
 
LarryB said:
I believe contact life has a lot to do with the condition of the batteries. If one battery goes bad it will still crank but the lower battery power seems to accelerate the contact wear/arcing.





I replaced mine before having problems but they were badly worn, probably just about ready to do the old hang-up routine, and your right, one of my batteries was DEAD! :eek:



Scott
 
I changed them out today... Was getting to the point where it took 3-4 tries to get the starter to turn.



Is there supposed to be an o ring on both the bolts? Cause mine only had on on the battery connection stud.



Is the battery connection contact supposed to be the same thinkness as the other? Mine was maybe 1/32" thick.



I'd like to meat the guy that tightened those 3 bolts holding the starter on... Holy crap they were tight. I thought I was going to break my wrench!
 
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I've had something similar. At first I thought my batteries were going south on me. It would click, I'd wait a few seconds, and it would start. It doesn't happen all the time, sometimes a few weeks between occurances. Is this the contacts telling me they need replacing?
 
Nate said:
I changed them out today... Was getting to the point where it took 3-4 tries to get the starter to turn.



Is there supposed to be an o ring on both the bolts? Cause mine only had on on the battery connection stud.



Is the battery connection contact supposed to be the same thinkness as the other? Mine was maybe 1/32" thick.



I'd like to meat the guy that tightened those 3 bolts holding the starter on... Holy crap they were tight. I thought I was going to break my wrench!



I don't know about the o-ring... its been a while since I've done mine(have installed several sets on my truck and others.



One side always seems to wear much worse than the others- I'll replace both sides and throw the old ones in the toolbox as spares. Since I had an extra kit in the toolbox from this, I saved a friend from being stranded a few months back. His was getting very hard to start, and the contact was paperthin. I actually wore one contact down to nothing once, and had to make a contact out of copper pipe to get home(McGyver style :-laf )



IIRC from reading my shop manual yesterday, the bolts should be torqued to 50 ft/lbs. HTH.
 
"Is this the contacts telling me they need replacing?"

Yes AMink, order new contacts ASAP.

My story turned out OK, turned the key and waited a few seconds until the starter caught. I went in the house did a quick search on TDR and confirmed my suspicions then got on the phone and ordered the new heavy duty contacts and plunger. I parked the truck until it was fixed. Just like everyone else, one contact was paper thin and the other one was like new. My friend at a dealership said he had never heard of this problem! That's because the dealers don't sell solenoid parts they only sell new complete starters. The savings on this one will pay your TDR membership for the next 10 years.
 
Nate said:
Starter is back in. Seems to crank slower for some reason though. Maybe it's just me though.



My old starter had begun to turn slower- it turned out it was the brushes were worn- and they finally shorted out completely, leaving me stranded. Its something to check while you're in there. Another point, is to make sure the contacts are good and flat- you don't want them to be cocked in there.







After buying a new starter, this thing spins the ole cummins over so fast it sounds like its going to hurt it! :eek: It does start much quicker now. :D Oo.
 
Ah wish I new that, cause I don't feel like pulling the starter back out now. Are the brushes replaceable as well? I'd rather do that then pay $500 for a starter.
 
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Yep, you can replace the brushes as well. Either set requires a little soldering. I had not replaced the contacts at 200k, but it was starting like the battery was dead. Already had the contacts and ordered the brush and plate kit. Installed both and everything works great.



Thomas
 
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