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My cruise was very irratic, I went to the dealer for a reflash (dumb move). Now I only get 10 mpg when towing, and the cruise is still the same. I would like to know if anyone is using a high idler with a auto to help with this, or if anyone has found a cure for this problem? I obviously do not need a high idler in FL, but will do what ever it takes to get my cruise back.
 
I had a problem with Cruise Control, didn't want to release or set Dealer (?) kept saying was ring in column. Turned out to be the control buttons on steering wheel. Maybe not you problem but... ...
 
Mine will set ok, it just won't hold steady speed. The boost will swing + or- 10 LBS. I tried reducing the vacuum to the servo, that helped a little. I hate going back to the dealer, no telling what they will do next.
 
You did not say if it was stable with the inj & banks then started acting up or has been surging since they were added?????.
 
thouse-sorry to hear about the flash f up. Take it back and demand they return programming to how it was - if they give you any lip tell them to check the sticker the Tech "should" have placed under the hood telling what the previous "before re-flash" programming was and restore it. Most often the Techs think we (stupid) owners shouldn't know about the sticker and don't even put one on. A reflash is supposed to be selective items and most often the tech just wipes it out and restores and updated version - usually this = something missing and mileage is the pits-sound about right so far. I'll stop now but, do read on cause the fix below is most likely what you need. It really pisses me off that you took it to them complaining about the inconsistent cruise and they re-f up'd you cruise module.



Anyway, we have about the same truck (minus 4WD). I just replaced the cruise servo-DC part number (off of invoice) 04669977, list price $67. 50. They had it in stock, I was in to have the hitch & hood recalls done, so I got it. Just installed it this weekend - putzing arround it took about 2 1/2 hours. I do mean putzing arround - I took out both batteries and cleaned them up real good yada yada. It works like a charm now - just like it used to. It helps to have the shop manual. There is a ton of stuff on the TDR if you go to search and type "servo" you will probably get a million hits.



I have a problem replacing faulty factory parts with more not improved parts that will eventually fail, but we are at the mercy of DC and for the 70 bucks and 2. 5 hours I'll do it on an annual basis if I have to, to keep the cruise working.



A suggestion for the future - before you give it to a dealer/let them touch your truck ask here to see what's been done in the past. This site is THE BOMB! Sorry for the long post. Hope things work out for you.
 
Originally posted by thouse

Mine will set ok, it just won't hold steady speed. The boost will swing + or- 10 LBS. I tried reducing the vacuum to the servo, that helped a little. I hate going back to the dealer, no telling what they will do next.



The SM says to hold a steady speed and turn the C/C on and off at least 15 times.



i've found this procedure almost always gets the C/C to settle down.



Fest3er
 
It is fair unloaded, but when towing it starts to hunt. It worked great prior to the mod's. I did not tow anything for several months, so it may be something else.
 
Well, after a lot of reading and several phone calls, I answered my own question. It is a conflict with the Banks system. They have known about it , but don't say anything unless confronted. I would not recommend installing a Banks kit if you have cruise, until they come up with a fix.
 
I feel I need to step in here and correct some misinformation laid out by Joe Mc.



1)The sticker he mentioned does not have the previous software version part number on it. It is the new software part number and is required to be put over the old p/n label by federal law.



2)Relashes are not selective. It is an automated process with the DRBIII and the MDS2. The MDS2 looks for the current software version and replaces it with the most recent version available at the time of the flash.



3)You cannot reflash a computer to an earlier software revision. This would be a violation of Federal emmisions law which is why this option is not available on the MDS2.



Don't mean to step on your toe Joe, but that's the way it is. I worked in Chrysler dealerships as a tech for 12 years before going to an independent repair facility. Take it easy on the techs at the dealership. Most of the screw ups ar DC's. They give the techs very little in the way of training or support when it comes to the Cummins regardless of what propaganda they may distribute.

The Germans coming on board just made it worse.

Also remember that after you have bombed you truck you are asking the onboard computers to work with conditions which are not with in the programmed operating parameters.



Remember the mantra:

I am my own warranty station.



Thouse, glad to see you got to the source of the problem.



End of tirade.
 
Originally posted by Paul Herioux

I feel I need to step in here and correct some misinformation laid out by Joe Mc.



1)The sticker he mentioned does not have the previous software version part number on it. It is the new software part number and is required to be put over the old p/n label by federal law.



2)Relashes are not selective. It is an automated process with the DRBIII and the MDS2. The MDS2 looks for the current software version and replaces it with the most recent version available at the time of the flash.



3)You cannot reflash a computer to an earlier software revision. This would be a violation of Federal emmisions law which is why this option is not available on the MDS2.



Don't mean to step on your toe Joe, but that's the way it is. I worked in Chrysler dealerships as a tech for 12 years before going to an independent repair facility. Take it easy on the techs at the dealership. Most of the screw ups ar DC's. They give the techs very little in the way of training or support when it comes to the Cummins regardless of what propaganda they may distribute.

The Germans coming on board just made it worse.

Also remember that after you have bombed you truck you are asking the onboard computers to work with conditions which are not with in the programmed operating parameters.



Remember the mantra:

I am my own warranty station.



Thouse, glad to see you got to the source of the problem.



End of tirade.



I stand corrected and graciously conducted I might add. ;) I was re-communicating information I read on previous posts - apparently incorrect. I did comment that there are a few techs that make a bad name for good ones.
 
Nothing to do with Banks.



Mine did that from day one, and each mod I did, it got worse.



It is in the cruise, your mods just make it lightning responsive.
 
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