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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cruise surge wont go away

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) oil sensor location 96'

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New VP - lope question

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My cruise control has surged since day 1. It surged when I just had a superchip programmer. And I got rid of that and now have big "150" injectors and a bleeder valve inline with the vacuum line going to the cruise and it seems to help but its definitely not cured. Should I put the bleeder valve on the fire wall instead of right at the cruise diaphram or what. Or am I just screwed and the ecm is going to always penalize me for not being stock? :(
 
the injectors are causing it,the cruise was calibrated for the stock HP. if you increase the HP, the cruise basically overcompensates and overshoots the speed and then chops the throttle. this drops the speed below the setpoint and the whole thing repeats. the needle valve should be right at the servo if it even has it. I know the manuals' cruise is electronic but am not sure about the autos in that year.
 
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I tried em all. Restrict vacuum with the wd-40 red spray tube, install needle valve at firewall location. What finally got it fixed was to pull out the Banks otto mind and put in an Edge comp. Works great now with needle valve wide open and comp on 3X3. :)
 
PLeavitt said:
I tried em all. Restrict vacuum with the wd-40 red spray tube, install needle valve at firewall location. What finally got it fixed was to pull out the Banks otto mind and put in an Edge comp. Works great now with needle valve wide open and comp on 3X3. :)

Another $500 to fix my cruise?Maybe if I had a better turbo to handle that kind of fuel. I've already killed two hx40s trying a comp even on 3x3 I bend shafts. BTW did you already have tow mirrors when you converted to the 03s or heated power mirrors like I've got?Thanks everybody for the input!
 
No, My truck came used with the big west coast style tow mirrors. You know the kind that if you hit the large support bracket you waste the door.
 
I realise that this thread is old, but my truck has recently started doing the same thing. I set the cruise on the highway and I can watch the boost guage go from 11 to 16 psi boost as if I were pressing and releasing the accelerator. This happens on flat land, with no wind or obstacles. I can actually feel the truck accelerating and slowing. I have good fuel pressure, and the VP-44 is functioning fine. This is not only extremely annoying, but it has to be wasting alot of fuel!



The cruise kicked out on me completely the other day, I was doing about 70 mph when I kicked it off, when I hit resume it didn't work, I turned it off and on again and it still would not work, the light indicating "cruise" in the odometer window still came on leading me to believe that this is not a fuse problem (I couldn't find any fuse labeled for the cruise anyway) I pulled over, shut the truck off and checked the wires under the hood. The thing is when I turned the truck back on the brake light stayed on. I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine who said if the brake light is on the cruise will not work at all. I checked all electric brake connections and found nothing.



I drove the truck about 400 miles without cruise, when I stopped to get fuel I again wiggled a couple of the connections. When I got back in the truck the brake light was off and the cruise started working. I drove maybe another 200 miles without a problem. Then I had to kick it off again and the same damn thing happened! No brake light on, but no cruise just like before. I didn't stop this time I just carried on without the cruise. Pulling back into town I tried it again just for the hell of it, and sure enough it worked. I'm totally lost on this, would it be a cruise problem? Or a brake problem? I just replaced all the brakes a couple of months ago and they are functioning well. I'm sorry this post is so long, I just wanted to completely explain my problem in case someone has experienced and solved this problem. Thanks.
 
When the brake pedal is depressed it disengages the cruise control. Next time this happens stick upyour toe under the brake pedal and lift up. If the brake light goes out and the control works you have found the problem.

Adjust the switch.
 
I tried lifting the brake padal once, and I also tried moving some of the under dash wires with my toe, nothing seemed to work. I have had no problems the last couple of days with the cruise (except for the damn surging) or the brake light coming on. I'm wondering if it could be because I was in some really thick fog? I had alot of ice build-up on the front of the truck, and on the front diff. when the problem was occuring. I'm hoping that this may have been the cause, as trouble shooting Intermittent problems like this is a major pain in the ***. Thanks alot for the input guys, I'm going to check for vacuum leaks to see if that may be what's causing the surging. If not I'll have my buddy hook up his dodge scan tool to find any possible codes.
 
Pushing the brake light switch plunger in too hard makes it stick in. The cure requires removing the switch, it apart so you can pull the plunger back out, putting it back together and re-installing carefully.



Taking it apart takes some care and a bit of fiddling with a knife blade as I recall.



I did this and didn't have to buy a new switch.
 
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