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Crummy Trailer Tires

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I 70 closed west of Denver

Got a leak

Does any tire mfg. make an LT rated 205/75 R14?

I am fed up with the quality and limitations of ST rated tires from

brands G & C.

I have a 19' Ski Nautique on a dual axle trailer. Boat weighs 2450.

The original Goodyears wore out very quickly and seemed to attract nails. (no tread separation though)

I replaced the G's with a set of Carlyle's last August. On our first

"long" trip of the year (Lake Powell) the tread on the right rear

tire came of while pulling into a gas station. These tires are so new that they still have the whiskers on them!!!

:mad: A friend of mine has had two tread separations and major

trailer damage with these same tires. While having the tire replaced, I noticed many other trailers in the parking lot all with

the same problem. TREAD SEPARATION (both G's & C's)

I asked the manager what gives? His response "trailer tires just

don't hold up". (I know about proper inflation and the ST vs P & LT ratings rationale that the tire mfg's rely on)

We can put a man on the moon & have cars race around INDY

at 220 mph. AND NO ONE CAN MAKE A QUALITY TRAILER TIRE?
 
Originally posted by WatsonJ

Does any tire mfg. make an LT rated 205/75 R14?

I am fed up with the quality and limitations of ST rated tires from

brands G & C.

I have a 19' Ski Nautique on a dual axle trailer. Boat weighs 2450.

The original Goodyears wore out very quickly and seemed to attract nails. (no tread separation though)

I replaced the G's with a set of Carlyle's last August. On our first

"long" trip of the year (Lake Powell) the tread on the right rear

tire came of while pulling into a gas station. These tires are so new that they still have the whiskers on them!!!

:mad: A friend of mine has had two tread separations and major

trailer damage with these same tires. While having the tire replaced, I noticed many other trailers in the parking lot all with

the same problem. TREAD SEPARATION (both G's & C's)

I asked the manager what gives? His response "trailer tires just

don't hold up". (I know about proper inflation and the ST vs P & LT ratings rationale that the tire mfg's rely on)

We can put a man on the moon & have cars race around INDY

at 220 mph. AND NO ONE CAN MAKE A QUALITY TRAILER TIRE?
One the trailer tires have stronger side wall to keep flexing down flex will make heat. Lt not recommended for trailer as flex is more for comfort (ride). Air psi and alignment could cause tire to go in no time also speed temp,nails etc. Lol Ron in Metro Louisville KY:-{} :confused:
 
The 5th wheel we have came with a set of Generals on it. We have over 4500 miles on these tires. I use 303 protectant on them and they are covered when not in use for several weeks. So far they still appear new with no visible defects. I do not know what they have for your situation but it does not cost anything to check them out.



Dave
 
I put LT195/75 R14 (6 ply rating) Kirkland tires from Costco on my V/M tandem boat trailer. I have a 20' Reinell runabout that weighs somewhere around 3000#. The trailer originally came with some kind of bias ply, generic, made in Taiwan crap trailer tires. I have had the Kirklands on for three years now and have had no problems, even towing in 100+ degree heat.



I have Carlisle radial trailer tires on my atv flatbed trailer. They have just as much sidewall sway as any other tire. They seem to be wearing pretty quickly also.
 
It seems that a lot of ST tires really are crap. Brand doesn't matter.



I had a Carlisle 225/75 R15 explode last year. Another one developed a "hen egg" on the sidewall.



I changed to 16 inch wheels and put 245/75 R16 light truck Michelin tires on my fifth wheel. I don't have tire problems anymore.



I don't buy the stiffer side wall agrument. It might matter when the tire is barely large enough for the camper and it is running over 90% of its capacity all the time. How much more would it cost the manufactuters to put good adequately sized tires on a camper.



My Michelins have 80 pounds of air, and are running at about 65% of their rated capacity. In a hard 90 degree twisting turn the sidewalls do not flex, the tire just scoots. They look much better in a tight turn than the Carlisles did.



My recommendation is to get the largest light truck tire that will fit your wheels. Check the air pressure before every trip and forget about having tire problems.



I don't plan to ever own another ST tire.



Bobby
 
DavidC:

Tell me about this 303 protectant stuff. A trailer is a lot to polish and I ain't as young as I used to be. Just a lot of work and am looking for an "easy way" to take care of the trailer (yea I'm lazy). Stuff is sure expensive but guess it would be worth it if it works as well as they claim.

Do you have to put it on and then rub off like wax or polish or is it just sprayed or rubbed on?

How long have you used it?

How often do you have to apply it?

Does it seem to work as well as advertised?

Anyone else with first hand experience with 303 protectant?

Thanks
 
I'm not impressed with ST tires either. Goodyear used to claim that their Marathon ST trailer tires were designed to resist the aging effects of UV rays which damage trailer tires with age regardless of miles pulled. I read GY's dubious claim when I was replacing the GY Marathons with cracked sidewalls on my Airstream that was less than five years old at the time.



I've never experienced a blow out with an ST tire, I'm usually careful about inflation and walk-around inspections whenever I stop, but I've heard and read lots of bad stories from many trailer pullers who have.



I use LT235/75R-15 Michelins on my TT but they are not ideal. I can see the carcasses shift sideways in a hard turn. I'd like to upgrade to 16" wheels and tires and use real light truck tires but don't think I can fit them under the body. I wish tire manufacturers had not stopped manufacturing the old-fashioned 700R-15 tires. GY probably killed that market by offering new Marathons to trailer manufacturers at deep discounts.



Harvey
 
Oo. Thanks all

1. I do the walk around inspection at every stop, looking at the

tires and checking axle temps, 50 psi etc... (This is Arizona)

2. The boat trailer is stored in our garage.

3. I use 303 protectant on the tires & upholstery. You can find

it in Marine stores, but I buy mine by the gallon from Overton's

(much better product than Armor-all) IMHO.

4. I noticed in the Sunday Sears adds, that Michelin makes an

XC LT4 in 195/75 R14. I'm going to see if they make one in

205. I'm also going to check the weight capacity.

5. I've never heard of Dayton's.

6. I went to the Sea Ray dealer yesterday to check out what

OEM tires came with their product. Every trailer on the lot

except one, had Goodyear Marathon's. One triple axle trailer

had "DURO'S"?????

7. Unfortunatly, I now have 4 "new" Carlysle's on my trailer and

I will have to use them despite having no confidence in them. :(
 
Originally posted by HBarlow



I use LT235/75R-15 Michelins on my TT but they are not ideal. I can see the carcasses shift sideways in a hard turn.



Harvey



I run Michelin XPS steel/steel (9. 5X16. 5R) radials on a 6K-plus equipment trailer. Those sidewalls also visibly flex on a hard turn. It will probably happen with any brand.
 
Originally posted by Matt Shumaker

I run Michelin XPS steel/steel (9. 5X16. 5R) radials on a 6K-plus equipment trailer. Those sidewalls also visibly flex on a hard turn. It will probably happen with any brand.



Matt:



I appreciate that info. It's good to know. I was assuming that XPS ribs or other tough steel-belted truck tires would not roll on the rims under the side forces of backing a TT at a right angle into a parking spot. I hadn't really thought the issue through. The fact is I have never seen an XPS Rib or equivalent on a TT engaged in a sharp, right angle backing maneuver. I would have been real disappointed and felt pretty foolish if I had invested a small fortune in 16" wheels and XPS Ribs.



If you ask the right question or start the right discussion, a TDR member will provide an answer!



Harvey
 
I've owned a few tandem axle trailers and found the easiest way to make a tire fail is to make a lot of sharp turns (backing up to nearly jack-knife then completing the turn really aids the process). Take a look at a tandem setup during a tight turn and you will notice the sidewalls of one flexed to the max in one direction while the sidewalls of the one behind it is flexed in the other direction. I have found that by making a conscience effort to make more gradual turns in parking lots, boat ramps, etc that my trailer tires last a lot longer.
 
Originally posted by GAmes

I've owned a few tandem axle trailers and found the easiest way to make a tire fail is to make a lot of sharp turns (backing up to nearly jack-knife then completing the turn really aids the process). Take a look at a tandem setup during a tight turn and you will notice the sidewalls of one flexed to the max in one direction while the sidewalls of the one behind it is flexed in the other direction. I have found that by making a conscience effort to make more gradual turns in parking lots, boat ramps, etc that my trailer tires last a lot longer.

Games,



I've observed the situation you described. I know you are correct but sometimes it can't be avoided. When I'm home I either park my trailer on a back yard pad behind my garage (exposed to weather) or in my shop building, behind one of my rentals. In both cases I have to back down a narrow residential side-street and make a right angle turn. One through a 10' gate, the other through a 10' by 10' shop door opening. Neither allows gentle turns. If it weren't for high air pressure the tires might pull loose from the rims!



Harvey
 
I too have had problems. Rather than just visually inspecting the tires, I recommend putting on a glove and running your hand around the tread to feel for a bulge developing.



You might try Green Ball Towmaster.
 
GreenBall Tires

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

I too have had problems. Rather than just visually inspecting the tires, I recommend putting on a glove and running your hand around the tread to feel for a bulge developing.



You might try Green Ball Towmaster.



Joe's right. The "touch" inspection is critical. Make sureyou wear a thin glove, not a heavy leather work glove! A photographic inspection glove is just right. I just use my hand, carefully.



I had a set of Greenball Tow Masters on my 27 foot TT. I kept them exactly 151 miles. One of the four wouldn't hold air above 15 lbs overnight. Even inflated, they made the trailer dance. Carlisle radial tires were an improvement.



Also, when I have to maneuver our equipment trailer around sharp turns in the yard, I use a forklift. I lift the trailer tongue high enough that the front axle is barely touching the ground, which really cuts down on sidewall flex problems. Something not mentioned, though, is that when you get major sidewall flex on sharp turns, you also risk bending the rim or, worse yet, the spindle.
 
Originally posted by CROW

DavidC:

Tell me about this 303 protectant stuff. A trailer is a lot to polish and I ain't as young as I used to be. Just a lot of work and am looking for an "easy way" to take care of the trailer (yea I'm lazy). Stuff is sure expensive but guess it would be worth it if it works as well as they claim.

Do you have to put it on and then rub off like wax or polish or is it just sprayed or rubbed on?

How long have you used it?

How often do you have to apply it?

Does it seem to work as well as advertised?

Anyone else with first hand experience with 303 protectant?

Thanks



I buy the 303 protectant at Camping world by the gallon(it is somewhere around 50. 00). Use it every 5 weeks or so. I bought one of those tire dressing applicators at Pep Boys. Just spray it on, wipe the entire sidewall of tire, let it sit for about 15 mins. soaking in then you can wipe off the excess. I have been using it for about 3-4 years. If you get any excess on rims or paint it cleans right off with a rag and will not harm anything. I also clean the wheel wells and then spray the wells with 303, gives back that black that was there when new. I have also been using this stuff on the original 70 roadrunner vinyl top, it is amazing to see the top suck this stuff in.



Dave
 
Here is my experience with tires. My 5W came with Carlisle ST205 - 75R15 Load Range C. Coming back from the mountains,one of them exploded and ripped out the bottom of my trailer and trashed the side. I looked into Goodyear for the Marathon tires, but couldnt find them. I wound up getting the Tow-Master tires, and according to the salesman, they are the same as the Marathon:confused:



I wound up with four ST225 - 75R15 Load Range D. According to them, this would be a better tire for the 5W. He was telling me that a lot has to do with the load range, and going to a taller tire it would help with the tire not running so hot because of more tread surface with the taller tire.



In looking at the information on my 5W the GVWR is 7000 lbs, the UVW is 5180 lbs. The tire size that is supposed to come with my 5W is the ST205 - 75R15. The ST225 size starts with a 5W with a GVWR of 10400lbs. and an UVW of 6780 lbs. This tire carries through to another 5W with a UVW of 6950. In a different model of 5W this ST225 tire is even on a 5W with a GVWR of 12160 and an UVW of 9330. (Maybe a three axle 5W).



If this size tire is rated for a trailer that heavy, I should be fine with it on my 28' er. When I got my traler fixed there was a toy hauler in for the same reason. An exploding Carlisle tire.



I wont ever get Carlisle tires again.



We are leaving for Arkansas next week and the exploding tire thing is still in the back of my mind. Proper tire pressure is a must!! I am no tire expert but this is what I have.



Jim
 
A thought

Harvey,



If you are on your own property and know you have to make some tight turns would it be feasable to put a layer of sand down to cut down the friction on the tires? Or maybe get the surface wet?
 
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