2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cummins Diesel Engine Revealed In Nissan Concept Truck

[JkJohnso87]

<i><b>A Small Cummins?&nbsp; Yes, I know ours is a Ram/Cummins 2500 - 5500 website (soon to be 1500 VM Motari too?), but I thought you would find this press release from Cummins about their 2.8-liter engine in a current Nissan small-size pickup, the Frontier.&nbsp; (Remember, it is the Titan that will receive the Cummins 5.0-liter engine some time in 2015.)&nbsp; Enjoy the press release information.&nbsp; Check out http://www.diseno-art.com/ for more photographs.&nbsp; If you would like to see more, www.pickuptrucks.com has a video about this concept vehicle.&nbsp; Let the rumors begin ... .</b></i></p><p class="MsoNormal"><i><b></b><br/></i></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><b>Concept 2.8L Turbo Diesel Unveiled At Chicago Auto Show
Further Demonstrates Cummins Commitment To Innovation For The Pickup Truck Market</b></u><u><b>#ad
</b></u></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">CHICAGO (Feb. 6, 2014) - Cummins Inc. (NYSE: CMI) and Nissan
(NSANY) unveiled a technical study called the Nissan Frontier Diesel Runner -
Powered by Cummins™ at the Chicago Auto Show. The heart of this vehicle is a
concept 2.8L turbo diesel engine - developed at the Cummins Technical Center in
Columbus, Ind. - that produces approximately 200 hp and over 350 lb-ft of
torque. This concept 2.8L has been matched with a Nissan Frontier Desert Runner
4x2 in a project to evaluate the viability of this package for North America.</p>

<p class="MsoNormal">Cummins has been powering pickup trucks around the world for
over 25 years, with engines including the B3.9, 5.9 and 6.7-liter Turbo
Diesels. The 5.0L V8 Turbo Diesel for the next-generation Nissan Titan and the
ISF2.8, used in markets outside the United States, are the latest production
engines to power the pickup truck market.</p>

<p class="MsoNormal">The custom Nissan Frontier Diesel Runner - Powered by
Cummins on display is one of two trucks specially repowered by Cummins to
demonstrate the latest in diesel capabilities.#ad
<br/></p>

<p class="MsoNormal">"These trucks really highlight modern clean-diesel
engine characteristics, with the durability and power that Cummins customers
have come to depend on," said Dave Crompton, Cummins Vice President and
General Manager - Engine Business. "The Nissan Frontier is a great
platform to demonstrate the potential of a Cummins-powered compact pickup for
the U.S. market, and this project will help to gauge market reaction and
evaluate future plans."</p>

<p class="MsoNormal">In addition to these 2.8L-powered concept trucks and the new
5.0L V8 Turbo Diesel for the next-generation Titan, Cummins, Johnson Matthey
and Nissan have partnered on the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) ATLAS research
project. The cost-shared research program is instrumental in developing new
diesel engine and emissions-control technology to meet future emissions
regulations and demanding fuel-economy requirements while delivering Cummins
performance and durability.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br/></p><p class="MsoNormal"><i>Photos presented by Diseno-art.com.&nbsp; For more photos, check out:&nbsp; http://www.diseno-art.com/</i><br/></p>

 

[JR]

If your using an inertia style controller make sure your levelling the controller out when you install it.
Very elementary I know, but just wanted to throw it out there. Some people do not realize that.

 

[B.G. Smith]

you might want to look at the receptacle for the trailer plug in at the rear of the truck. Sometimes they will corrode up and short some of the wires together, especially at the rear of the receptacle where the wires go in. bg

 

[Cosmo]

If you take a burned out controller and stick it in another truck, does it work or is it actually fried internally?

Check the wiring - I'd look for corrosion causing high resistance, or chafing causing a short to ground/power.

 

[MLee]

Do you have a relay or fuse in the hot line to the controller? If its a relay look for a short as mentioned. And as mentioned try the controller in an other truck, to verify its bad.

 

[RustyJC]

You could be pulling excessive current between the trailer brake and ground pins in the 7-pin connector at the rear of the truck. I had problems with the 7-pin connector getting packed full of road dirt and water, creating a high resistance short between pins. Once I disassembled and cleaned the 7-pin connector and packed it with dielectric grease before reinstalling, I never had another problem.

Rusty

 

[JR]

it still has power to the controller but won't engage the trailer brakes.

Have you checked for power at the 7 pin connector at the back of the truck with a voltmeter? The statement you made about having power to the controller is why I suggested making sure the controller was set up and levelled properly. What about hitting the manual brake slide on the controller, do your brakes work using that?

 

[JkJohnso87]

I thought I had the controller pretty close to level, it is the inertia kind. On a previous controller that quit working I checked for power at the 7 way plug with a test light, didn't have a voltmeter at the time, and there was power there but not much, test light was real dim. I replaced the 7 way plug not too long ago and added a plug in the box with a Curt towing kit. The brakes don't work using the manual slide either. The controller that is in there now displays oc, open connection, all the time, even when there is a trailer plugged in. The pickup is at a shop right now getting front axle seals and a run on the dyno but when I get it back I will try some of your suggestions and see if I can figure it out. I may take one of my old controllers and put it in a friends dodge to see if it works also. Thank you for all the replies, if I find anything I will post it on here.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Just my suggestion, but I'd check the wire plugs behind the driver tire.... the brake feed wire is probably corroded in the connector, and it's losing contact when it gets hot. I've seen a lot of the running light and brake problems come back to there.

 

[JkJohnso87]

I found the problem. I used my continuity tester to test the wires, the wire between the brake controller and the plug behind front driver tire was good but from that plug to the trailer plug had a break in it somewhere. I spliced into the plug behind the tire and ran a new wire back to the trailer plug and tied it in and everything works just fine. The factory wire in the harness must have gotten a hole in it and corroded, I also had another wire right at the trailer plug that did that so I had to splice that one also. Thank you to everyone for their help and advice.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Glad you got it fixed!! Especially if I'm on the road with ya'!! :-laf