Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cummins Oil Pan...Will it CLEAR???

[EagleEye]

I am looking at replacing the leaking oil pan gasket.



I can take it to the local dealer who will do the job exactly like it is spelled out in the manual. That being: separate the engine and transmission (including prop shafts, etc) and lifting engine to clear crossmember (which includes removing a host of other items). It would be covered under warranty, and no out of pocket expense. Only thing is, I don't trust them that far into the truck.



I was looking, and it appears as if you could get enough clearance by simply leaving the rear trans mount connected, loosening the front mounts, and raising the front of the engine either by cherry picker or jack under crankshaft. HAS ANYONE HAD SUCCESS DOING IT THIS WAY??? It would be alot easier and I will probably try it in the morning, but if there is ANYONE who can tell me it is a definite NO-GO, then that would help.



Like I said, it appears as if you could gain the needed clearance, but the pan is rather close to the frame crossmember. Kinda a tossup on the judgement call. ANY INPUT???



Thanks.

 

[EagleEye]

And what about sealant???

I have been also debating on what type of dressing to put on the stock Cummins oil pan gasket.



I can use GaskaCinch which is a contact cement type,



Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket which is a brown brush on type,



Hylomar which is the purple or blue stuff and non hardening,



Black or Blue RTV which works without a gasket.



I have had good luck with all, but don't want to do this again soon. The GaskaCinch works well on close fit applications, Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket works well on water pumps, and I try and avoid RTV cause it seems to lose it's hold under extreme oil and heat, just seems to become unstuck from the metal after extended periods. Hylomar is interesting, but havn't had an extreme test of the stuff on anything i have yet.



Any likes or dislikes, personal experience, etc would be helpful.



Please don't wait to respond, this project will probably happen today 032703 after I finish my night shift or maybe tomorrow.



ANY input greatly appreciated.

 

[Sticks]

What you may run into is the oil collection unit in the bottom of the pan is going to require you to lift the engine so the lower part of the pan where the drain plug is will need to clear the cross member by 1-2". The pan may need to "drop" straight down and not tilt down and slide out.



I haven't done one on our trucks yet, but several cars that I have done needs the extreme clearance. One car required us to unbolt the motor mounts, hook up the hoist, then remove the entire front sub frame... such fun.



Be careful!

 

[EagleEye]

What about...

How about raising engine just a bit and removing the pickup? Is it accessable with a small amount of clearance? Or does it take alot of clearance to get in there?

 

[Sticks]

I'm not sure. Even to get in there to work, you will still need at least enough room to get your arm in, and god help you if you drop something in the pan.



Have you ever pulled a fuel pump assembly out of a tank? You have the collection pipe, and at the bottom, there will be a screen or something of the like. It has to go to the bottom of the lowest part of the pan to collect the oil. Depending on the design of the CTD, it may be 3/4 the size of the bottom of the pan where the drain plug is at. This is why you won't be able to tilt and slide. The shallow part of the pan will have to drop below the collection unit before you will be able to do any horizontal movement.



Hopefully someone with a shop book will chime in here and let you know.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Done it before... The trans MUST be removed to get the oil pan out. It's not that big of a job, just take it to a place that is familiar with the truck. Dodge is usually pretty good with this sort of thing, so you might want to think about taking it to another dealership.



As for sealing it, I never use any RTV or silicone. Just make sure everything is clean, and it will not leak when you torque the bolts down.

 

[illflem]

I'm with Evan, I never use any gasket goop unless there is no gasket.

Some 12 valve folks have reported tilting the engine, dropping the pan then removing the pickup tube though the open space to allow the pan to clear. Seems like a hassle to me, easier to drop the trans.

 

[TowPro]

Not sure I would put a jack under the crank shaft.

Originally posted by EagleEye

I am looking at replacing the leaking oil pan gasket.



raising the front of the engine either by cherry picker or jack under crankshaft. ANY INPUT???



Thanks.

 

[Udaloy]

Although it may be too late, I highly recommend Ultra Copper which is an RTV type sealer. I've used it on 5 or 6 engine rebuilds, albeit not diesels, with great success.



I even used it to stop an exhaust header from leaking until I could get to it over the weekend. The header gasket broke leaving a 1/4'' gap between it and the head. I stuffed some ultra copper in there and it held for three days under all that heat. that's pretty good in my book.

 

[JBHale]

I recommend a little silicon , but only at the gear housing to block and rear seal to block connections. That fills in the line between the two. That is the only silicon we use on the pan area, also you can use Misty or gasket tack to hold the gasket to pan. 18ft lbs pan bolts and suction tube.

 

[A Johnson]

If you are bent on using silicone I prefer the Cummins 3 Bond. I normally do put a dab of silicone on the parting line where the front gear housing and the rear seal housing contact the block, as the factory also does this. Most important is to get all the old gasket off. My . 01 Cent



A Johnson



Edit: JB I guess I need to do a better job of reading before I shoot my mouth off... Good Job.

 

[EagleEye]

Thanks for the input...

Raised the engine to about the limit. Placed cut 2x4's under the engine mounts as an additional safety precaution. Definitely had enough space to remove the pickup tube, but alas, just not enough heigth to clear the trans. Live and learn.



I decided to wait and temporarily buttoned it up for the night to keep the dust/dirt out, and let the oil drain down the sides of the block.



Tomorrow, I plan to replace the gasket by simply cleaning mating surfaces well, and slipping the gasket between the pan and the block. Evan, I wish you didn't say to use anything. I rather respect your opinion, and now I am torn between using sealant (like the tsb info states) or not.



I would still welcome opinions on what has worked for others as far as sealing goes. I/m still swaying in that direction because the original gasket looks like a real proper install, and all bolts were properly torqued, but I still had a leak.



By the way, lifting the engine seems ALOT easier than moving the trans back. Done that a few times and it is a pain!



Comments and suggestions always welcomed, and Thanks!

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Well, you can use come RTV, but I don't recommend it, regardless of what the TSB says. I have done LOTS of oil pans on B and C series engines, and never once used silicone. Never once had a comeback due to a leak either...



If it makes you feel more secure about not having a leak, go ahead and use some sealant. BUT... Be sure to let it dry overnight before putting any oil in the engine. Uncured silicone breaks down real easy when it comes in contact with oil.