Cummins Part Numbers - KDP Tab

[Ben Rumson]

CUMMINS PART NUMBERS

CM 3918673 $19. 57 Timing Cover Gasket

CM 3804899 $26. 89 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal

CM 3900257 $1. 60 Dowel Pin

CU 3823494 $10. 22 Silver Three Bond RTV Silicone Adhesive/Sealant (3oz)





DODGE PART NUMBER

04429257 $ ? Dowel Pin





NEW BOLT

Original bolt is ¾ inches long.

Longer bolt to secure Tab = 8m x 1. 25 x 25mm

Get hardened bolt Grade 8 (goldish iridescent color)

Dimension of above bolt = 8m (diameter) x 1. 25 (thread count) x 25mm (length)

Torque new bolt to 18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds) and use Thread lock.





CHECK OTHER BOLTS INSIDE TIMING COVER

Camshaft Torque Plate (through the 3 holes in the Camshaft Gear)

Oil Pump Gear Plate (lower left gear - 7 o'clock position)

Torque bolts inside Timing Cover to 18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds) and use Thread lock.





TIMING/GEAR COVER BOLTS (OUTSIDE)

18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds).

 

[Extreme1]

Thanks!

Mine dies in @ weeks...

 

[pwknapp]

Had to replace the front cover seal before knowing about the KDP. When replacing the cover bolts add some some "star" lock washers and they will not loosen over time. Just my . 02

 

[Deezul1]

Good info and part #s. Dont really need grade 8 bolt when torqued to 22ft lbs with no stress on it.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Good additional information - thanks.



lock washers for cover

standard grade bolt sufficient for 22 foot-pounds



Side Note: My killer pin had worked it's way out almost 3/16 inch. Wish I had a digital camera to show you. I doubt the Jig method would have worked because the counter sunk bolt probably would hit the side of the KDP before becoming fully inserted. This being the case, I would have needed to pull the cover (new gasket and new oil seal) to hammer the pin back in before continuing.



All other bolts inside the cover were tight. As a precaution, I removed each of them (one at a time), dried both the bolt and the hole (Q-Tip), and applied red thread lock before reinstalling and retorquing.



Additionally, I had a heck of a time getting the new seal into the cover - even using the metal installation tool. One side would inevitably go in and the other would pop up. No matter how evenly/horizontaly I tried to tap it into place, it would not get an even or "level" start into the timing cover (full circumfrence of the new seal going in at the same time).



Solution: Because the front-most edge of the seal flange is free-hanging (not used as part of the sealing surface) once the seal is installed, I used my Dremel Tool, with a stone grinding wheel, to slightly bevel the inner edge of the front-most edge of the flange. This allowed the sharp edge of the oil seal a chance to work it's way into the hole instead of rocking back and forth and not catch edge to edge with the timing cover flange.



I hope this makes sense. If it doesn't now, it will once you have your cover off and try inserting your new seal. If your seal doesn't go right in, consider beveling the inner edge of the flange like I did. Any questions, please write.

 

[Oliver88]

Standard grade bolt. Good. I was worried about mine since that's what I put in. It's only holding the tab. No pressure.

Greg

 

[Deezul1]

My shop manual says to install seal from inside of cover when possible and the hole is tapered inside. I used my drill press for an arbor press to press the seal into the cover and it worked slick.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Wish I would have thought of the Drill Press route. It would have saved me about an hour of farting around.