Cummins response to oil testing...

[betterthanstock]

Many of us have long since been adding stuff to our fuel to make up for what has been removed - now, must we do the same with our engine lubes too?

We may have to. I just remembered there are some oil additives in the marine section. Of course, these additives will damage the 07 particulate filter, but this is the 5. 9 section. And if they discontinue our oils, saying the CJ is good enough, that may be our last alternative, to add some extra zinc -(something)--phosphate, or whatever.

 

[steved]

We may have to. I just remembered there are some oil additives in the marine section. Of course, these additives will damage the 07 particulate filter, but this is the 5. 9 section. And if they discontinue our oils, saying the CJ is good enough, that may be our last alternative, to add some extra zinc -(something)--phosphate, or whatever.

While this sounds like a feasible option, they are also reformulating all the additives to meet the new emissions requirements (2007 compliant). I have a single bottle of diesel lube (power service), which is no longer made.



How many oil additives have you read that DIDN'T have the "2007 compliant" verbage?? I bought a bottle of MMO that 6 months ago stated "not 2007 compliant", now all the bottles are 2007 compliant... so what changed???



See what I mean?? There isn't a surefire way to eliminate the inevitable...



One place to check out that has a very good following on BITOG is Automotive, better gas mileage, oil additives, gasoline additives, fp60, fuel oil additive



steved

 

[AMassaro]

Steved, LCD just came out with a new FP plus fuel additive. I've already got some on order... :-laf

 

[steved]

Steved, LCD just came out with a new FP plus fuel additive. I've already got some on order... :-laf

I saw that... I'm really looking hard at getting a 5-gallon bucket of Amalgamated and trying it...



As for oil additives, I'm not sure I like adding stuff to the oil... I see guys adding rotella to delo, and the like and it makes me cringe...



steved

 

[FourBarR]

All you who are interested in the ci-4 vs cj-4 look at this site i found. hope the link works. www.lubrizol.com/cj-4/pdflibrary/july06place.pdf

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

As for oil additives, I'm not sure I like adding stuff to the oil... I see guys adding rotella to delo, and the like and it makes me cringe...



steved

Probably true with oils from different companies, due to differing refining and additive processes - but if the new stuff is as fully "backward compatible" as we're being told, mixing the CI4 stuff with CJ4 from the SAME company to increase the total additive level for older engines SHOULDN'T be a problem...



At least, that's sort of my own long range plan...

 

[steved]

Probably true with oils from different companies, due to differing refining and additive processes - but if the new stuff is as fully "backward compatible" as we're being told, mixing the CI4 stuff with CJ4 from the SAME company to increase the total additive level for older engines SHOULDN'T be a problem...



At least, that's sort of my own long range plan...

As I noted somewhere... six months ago, it was indicated that mixing CI and CJ Rotella was not recommended by their literature... now that seems to have did a 180 flip and its "ok"... whats the difference?



I know when I first read the Rotella statement I was not too happy because I had over a quart of one or the other (that didn't get changed) hung up in the bypass filter... and they were saying it was a no-no... I want to say the literature even indicated that mixing the two could cause engine damage (maybe the "engine" was actually the emissions portion??)...



Just thought that was odd...



steved

 

[jnelson]

I've used Amsoil, Lucas, Delo, Castrol Tection, Rotella, Rotella Synthetic, Valv. blue, and that abou it. Thats just in my 06. Does anyone really think it matters what oil you use and long as you change it on a regular basis? I used about 5 different oils in my 2001 and ran it for 430,000 miles with no oil related issues.

I can see using the proper oils for the new emissions, but does it really matter what brand?

I dont think so.

 

[AMassaro]

In my application, where I'm getting to a higher horsepower/performance level, I want the BEST protection for when I'm really hard on the engine. I don't care about oci's as I'll change at 5kmiles or less... It's all about performance and protection.

 

[Nate]

Never heard anything about that. The oil I dumped a few weeks ago was a mix of CI and CJ. I had to top off with CJ cause I couldn't find any CI. Oil results came back great with over 10,000 miles on the oil.

As I noted somewhere... six months ago, it was indicated that mixing CI and CJ Rotella was not recommended by their literature... now that seems to have did a 180 flip and its "ok"... whats the difference?



I know when I first read the Rotella statement I was not too happy because I had over a quart of one or the other (that didn't get changed) hung up in the bypass filter... and they were saying it was a no-no... I want to say the literature even indicated that mixing the two could cause engine damage (maybe the "engine" was actually the emissions portion??)...



Just thought that was odd...



steved

 

[steved]

Never heard anything about that. The oil I dumped a few weeks ago was a mix of CI and CJ. I had to top off with CJ cause I couldn't find any CI. Oil results came back great with over 10,000 miles on the oil.

I even read that in one of their "slide show" style bulletins... very similar to the one that claims its ok to mix. The bulletin recommended against mixing the two oils...



steved

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I used Amsoil 15w40 Diesel and Marine for 100k then 5w40 Mobile One Turbo Diesel (100% synthetic) became available at Wally world to I switched to that. Running the best filters Amsoil turns black. I have been told it is not dirty just discolored but I still don't like it to be black. After 10k I will send in a sample. Amsoil always did good when analyzed, however it is not readily available around here. In my humble opinion the best oil is the oil that is best for the turbo bearings. I felt better seeing that it said for use with a turbo on the container of Mobile One 5w40.

 

[rootcanals]

I have a friend in the parts dept at the local dodge dealership. I was told that Mopar just started selling the (Mobile synthetic) for about $130. 00 for 3 gals. It is what the dealerships are being told to put in the Cummins when a customer asks for synthetic oil.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

the best oil is the one that's best for the engine... if it's good for the engine, it's good for the turbo... a blown turbo will set you back a grand or so... a blown engine can set you back ten times that!

 

[Buffalo]

There's a pretty good, long thread going on over at the DTR about the new "CJ Oils". Well worth the read, in my opinion,



Basically, it says that the CJ will work in the older-style engines but, if you are interested in extended oil drain intervals, you had better cut them in half. In other words, for those of us that are changing oil at about the 10,000 mile intervals, you may want to go to 5000 mile intervals.



Some guys that had racing/pulling engines were having premature wearing of the cam lobes & other parts of the engine. They didn't realize that they were using the new CJ until they started having the problems. They have since changed back to the CI-4+ & the problems have dissappeared. Sounds like these new oils are not as rugged as the old formulations, either. Those guys that have racing engines don't generally leave oil in the engine for very long & to have it wear out that early is a bit scary.



There is a good article by John Deere, in the DTR thread, that recommends using ONLY CI-4+ in their engines. Their testing showed that the CJ formulations didn't hold up well enough for them. Apparently, all the oil that JD sells, now, is CI-4+. So, that may be another source for you guys looking for the CI-4+.



Also, some of the smaller motor oil manufacturers, like Schaeffer's, will keep manufacturing the CI-4+ until, at least, 2010.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[amsoilman]

I have posted this elswhere, but I will post it again for those that have not seen this info.



The AMSOIL brand "NEW" 5W-40 CJ-4 oil is a VERY LOW ASH oil 0. 98% sulphated ash(setforth by the EPA) which reduces the TBN to 8. 0 (again setforth by EPA).

Some of the chemicals used in this oil also changes the wear factor, thus in the 4-ball wear test (ASTM D-4172B) this oil shows 0. 44 mm wear scar versus the HDD & MArine 15W-40 at 0. 35 mm. TBN of the HDD & Marine is 12plus.



Is the DEO 5W-40 backwards compatible? Absoluitely. This oil is not a good oil for extended drain intervals, due to the TBN as well as the lower ash content, however if Monitored using Oil Analysis, drain intervals can be extended according to Amsoil Inc.



The HDD & MArine oil IS NOT CJ-4 qualified like the DEO 5W-40 is, so for Diesel engines that DO NOT REQUIRE CJ-4 oils, the HDD & Marine 15W-40 is a better choice, and is less costly to produce & sell. Amsoil will continue to produce the (AME) HDD & Marine 15W-40 until around 2010 as I understand it. Remember, the Engines that require a CJ-4 oil also have Exhaust After treatment devices which have to be addressed, where the engines that require CI-4+ and below do not have these!



Wayne

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

There's a pretty good, long thread going on over at the DTR about the new "CJ Oils". Well worth the read, in my opinion,



Basically, it says that the CJ will work in the older-style engines but, if you are interested in extended oil drain intervals, you had better cut them in half. In other words, for those of us that are changing oil at about the 10,000 mile intervals, you may want to go to 5000 mile intervals.



Some guys that had racing/pulling engines were having premature wearing of the cam lobes & other parts of the engine. They didn't realize that they were using the new CJ until they started having the problems. They have since changed back to the CI-4+ & the problems have dissappeared. Sounds like these new oils are not as rugged as the old formulations, either. Those guys that have racing engines don't generally leave oil in the engine for very long & to have it wear out that early is a bit scary.



There is a good article by John Deere, in the DTR thread, that recommends using ONLY CI-4+ in their engines. Their testing showed that the CJ formulations didn't hold up well enough for them. Apparently, all the oil that JD sells, now, is CI-4+. So, that may be another source for you guys looking for the CI-4+.



Also, some of the smaller motor oil manufacturers, like Schaeffer's, will keep manufacturing the CI-4+ until, at least, 2010.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

GREAT info Joe - and another log on the fire - thanks!

 

[roperteacher]

NOw that I have been looking around... . There seems to be quite a bit of the Mobile 1 Delvac CI4+ oil around... . Auto zone here in town just got a whole load of it. . Was the only CI4+ that wasn't CJ in the whole store. . WOnder why the supply for it is so much greater???