D rated Tires

[CContreras]

Any opinions on running D rated tires on your tow vehicle. My 3500 is SRW and I tow 4-5 times a year with my 27' travel trailer and a moderate load in the bed. Considering the D rated tires because the sidewalls aren't as thick and I am hoping this might soften the ride when not loaded. Considering going to 285/70/17 Nitto, Michelin or Kelly ATs

 

[Grizzly]

If that's all the load you are going to do, why not. I personally will stay with the "E" rated.

 

[Hoefler]

When not towing, just lower the air pressure. Better tire wear and ride. Side wall thickness doesnt necessarily equate to ride quality as far hitting bumps in the road. The heavier side wall keeps the tire from rolling out from under you in curves and turns while loaded. Over inflated tires are just as dangerous as under inflated tires, less traction, less tire contact on the road, uneven tire wear, more app to spin you out in a curve on damp roads, etc. .

 

[BHolm]

Any opinions on running D rated tires on your tow vehicle. My 3500 is SRW and I tow 4-5 times a year with my 27' travel trailer and a moderate load in the bed. Considering the D rated tires because the sidewalls aren't as thick and I am hoping this might soften the ride when not loaded. Considering going to 285/70/17 Nitto, Michelin or Kelly ATs

Just a side note, there is absolutely no truth to the notion that D rated tires have a thinner sidewall than E rated tires. There are a ton of misconceptions about D and E tires, that is just one of them



The ride difference will come from the larger volume tire being able to carry the same load at a lower pressure.



I have run 285 section D rated tires on these trucks since 2003, several hundred thousand miles worth, and never had any problems. I towed commercially with them for years, have had gross loads right around 25k for several cross country trips. I'm not sure I would ever fit Nittos, or Kellys to my vehicles, but I am kind of a tire snob. I like the best I can get, and I am willing to pay for them. Tires are your only link to the roadway, choose carefully!

 

[BMH95]

I've pulled the same size TT around on my 285/70/17 Cooper Discoverer STT's, and have had no issues. My tires shops explained the load rating to me, and re-enforced what the others here are saying. Mine have 3196lbs of weight capacity, with a load index of something like 121 (IIRC). Strangely enough, it's about the same numbers as the stock "e" tires that the truck came from the factory wearing. Run 'em, but get a good tire either way.

 

[DodgeWarlock]

To get even wear(empty or loaded)on our our 01 we have to run higher pressures than a D rate tire will hold. Even when we tried the lower pressure, the ride was not any better but the handling suffered badly as the truck developed a seasick wallow. A lot of people run the D's, and a lot of people will only run E's. Personally, I'll stick with the E's. As for air pressure, the pressure that gives gives the most even wear is usually the safest, since it means the tire is not over or underinflated and has the best contact with the road. Rememeber also that the optimum wear pressure changes with load and driving style.

 

[BHolm]

To get even wear(empty or loaded)on our our 01 we have to run higher pressures than a D rate tire will hold. Even when we tried the lower pressure, the ride was not any better but the handling suffered badly as the truck developed a seasick wallow. A lot of people run the D's, and a lot of people will only run E's. Personally, I'll stick with the E's. As for air pressure, the pressure that gives gives the most even wear is usually the safest, since it means the tire is not over or underinflated and has the best contact with the road. Rememeber also that the optimum wear pressure changes with load and driving style.

Keep in mind that the tire you choose makes a huge difference. Your situation wasn't necessarily caused by the D rating but maybe tire itself, hence the advice to buy good tires. I've never had a problem with uneven wear. I was getting 50k miles from BFG AT KOs, similar results with the Goodyear Wrangler S/A, both 285/70-17D. I run them 65 loaded, and 45 unloaded except for my 600lbs of sand I've done it on twisting mtn roads for years, no wallow, no worries.

 

[DodgeWarlock]

Agreed, about the quality thing. These are the E-rated Spectors(BFG knockoffs) that came on the truck and I would classify them as a cheap tire. And future plans call for replacing these at tax time with something different, but not because I can fault these chinese tires. We have had zero problems out of them. They ride and handle well and have worn about as well as the real BFG's (from what I find on TDR). I would not trade my cheap E-rated tires for any D-rated set. This is not a rag on D-rates. I've had some really good D-rates on prior(non-CTD) trucks and still do. But I would not consider downgrading my tires. When I have 1,000lbs in the bed and 12,000lbs on the ball I like knowing the tires are rated and aired for the load. What do you do if you need more air pressure on your D-rates than 65lbs? At least with the E-rates you can air down to the pressure that works for your combination. My . 02.



P. s. We experienced the same problem on our suburban with Bridgestone commercial grade tires. For the best handling and wear we need more pressure than a D-rate is rated for. It did ride better with lower pressure(unlike the CTD), but it wallowed around like a full size van on P-series tires. Okay, . 03.

 

[DodgeWarlock]

As a side note... All my experience is with 16's. Maybe the shorter stiffer sidewall of your 17's makes a difference. I've talked to very few people with 17's, but only because I was interested in the 16's.

 

[DHuffman]

Read the following thread.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/3rd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/193623-265-70-17-vs-285-70-17-a.html

 

[DodgeWarlock]

Read it. I assume you were refering to the Toyo info that says to run whatever additional pressure necessary to meet required load capacity without exceeding the rated pressure of the new tire. It also states quite clearly in bold red print to never use less than the oem recommended tire pressure. Our 01 shows 65/80. That means that a fully inflated D-rate at 65psi is the bare minimum for the front and only an E-rate at 80psi will qualify on the back. Experience with our current tires shows 75-80/80 gives the best wear and that when front pressures drop into the 65 range they start cupping and wearing the outside edges faster than the center. D-rates may be cheaper, but if they are going to wear out faster I just don't see the value in intentionally downgrading.



I'm not trying to argue that my opinion is the only good one. Just stating what I had learned through my experience which with CTD is limited. We will have put almost 26k on the 01 in our first year. I joined to learn what other people have experienced and bounce thoughts/ideas off those people.

 

[Tomeygun]

after having my nitto 295/70/17 Drated tires, i WILL NEVER EVER put a d rated tire on my truck again... period



They were WAY to squimy in the turns and wore fast I think due to that.



My e-rated 285/75/17 toyos are much better and still 33 inches tall

 

[ParsonsDRW]

I had a set a D rated on my 02 2500. Guy at VIP said there i would notice a difference. I would never ever put a set of D rated on again. Truck is just to heavy for D rated tires. I think that they were Kelly's that i put on.

Ben

 

[BHolm]

Read the following thread.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/3rd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/193623-265-70-17-vs-285-70-17-a.html

Looks just like this thread



It is sheer ignorance to say the D rated tires aren't heavy enough for our trucks. Sorry if that offends but these D vs E threads just get so rediculous. I bet the D Nittos and Kellys were junk, they would be junk if they were E rated too!



It is ALL about the load rating in lbs. The D rated 285/70-17 tire carrys the same load at a lower pressure than the E rated 265/70-17, you give up exactly NOTHING by changing. If you "need" 80 psi to make tires work for you somehow, something else is the issue.



I have yet to see anything on this site that makes a convincing case to make sure you get E tires. Lots of experiences with D's that say they are too squirmy, 90% of those are on what I would consider to be cheapo off brands, what do you expect?



I've done it for years, commercially and personally, hundreds of thousands of miles, not a single problem. I've compared them side by side, same roads, same loads. Just my experience talking but the hysteria over this is just that, unfounded hysteria.



Good Luck

 

[mfburns]

I had michlin 265/75/R16 A/T D rated tires on my 2500, mostly commuter and light towing (18' boat) I had no problems and got over 150,000 out of the tires. I'm not sure there is that much difference if you keep it on the roads and don't overload it. Compare the tire weight's form the manufacturer to see what the difference is. If you don't overload them they should be OK

 

[SBeretz]

I have had the Toyo 285/75 for about 5k. Great snow tire, and all around sloppy conditions. Probably not great in mud, but I didn't buy them for that. I do like the fact they are rated for 3970lbs per tire when aired to 80psi. They hold strong with the toyhauler on the rear of the truck. I think similar D rated tires would have been fine, but I wanted to stick with E's. Scotty

 

[BHolm]

I think going to a bigger tire in an E is pretty smart if you need the capacity. In '03 I bought a SRW and a DRW. 17" truck tires were rare then and sizes very limited. I needed more capacity and at the time DRW was my only option other than maybe going with 19. 5s



The part that bugs me is when guys want to go up a couple sizes, end up with a D, even though it can carry the same load as the smaller E tires, and people try to say the D's are somehow inferior. :-{}

 

[DHuffman]

Read it. I assume you were refering to the Toyo info that says to run whatever additional pressure necessary to meet required load capacity without exceeding the rated pressure of the new tire. It also states quite clearly in bold red print to never use less than the oem recommended tire pressure. Our 01 shows 65/80. That means that a fully inflated D-rate at 65psi is the bare minimum for the front and only an E-rate at 80psi will qualify on the back. Experience with our current tires shows 75-80/80 gives the best wear and that when front pressures drop into the 65 range they start cupping and wearing the outside edges faster than the center. D-rates may be cheaper, but if they are going to wear out faster I just don't see the value in intentionally downgrading.



I'm not trying to argue that my opinion is the only good one. Just stating what I had learned through my experience which with CTD is limited. We will have put almost 26k on the 01 in our first year. I joined to learn what other people have experienced and bounce thoughts/ideas off those people.

I should have said read and understand; not read and jump to conclusions...

The PSI listed on your truck is for THE OEM SIZE TIRE ONLY!!! When you start changing tire sizes, pressures should be adjusted accordingly. If you don't understand, do whatever you want, but don't try and mislead people.



I have put 33,000 miles on my truck and have only had it for nine months... what does that have to do with anything?

 

[BHolm]

I have put 33,000 miles on my truck and have only had it for nine months... what does that have to do with anything?

Yep, wondering that too, my '06 has nearly 90,000.

 

[DodgeWarlock]

I am not trying to mislead anyone. I read the information and it does support you technically. Legally it is pretty hard to misunderstand the bold red print that said to never run lower than the oem recomended pressure. It also said to cut (divide) the rated weight load of the oversize tires by 1. 1. If you offer up evidence it must be able to withstand discussion.



I had not even considered the legalities until after an accident this summer. One of the first things the adjuster inspected on my truck was the tire tread depth, and pressures. I assumed for value. He said for liability. After the Firestone/Explorer debacle they considered it important. I hit a 18-wheeler that backed out in front of me blind, and they were looking for any excuse to get out of the wreck.



As for something else being wrong, I don't know what. The front end was rebuilt shortly after purchase (track bar, ball joints, tie rods and brakes). Steering box and pitman were checked. New alignment. The only variable was the air pressure. Saw the difference in wear in 1200-1500 miles. Rotated tires and raised the air pressure back and tire wear evened back out. Eight months later and no change in tire wear.



The comment about our mileage with this truck was only to disclose my limited experience compared to other members. As with other things I've said you misunderstood my meaning and jumped to the wrong conclusions.



Sorry, if this offended any of you in some way. Nothing can be learned with only one point of view. It was an opinion and the last one I will post on this thread. Discussion is one thing, this is becoming another.