D@#$ u-joints!!

[Big_H316]

What is up with these high dollar u-joints that don't last? I've replaced mine for the second time already and it's only at the 143,000 mark. I've seen trucks that have had 3-400,000 miles on them and never touched the universals. I think the problem is that there is not enough grease in the caps. When mine froze up the first time the trunions were almost "welded" to the caps. This time they were ribbed so bad that I'm surprised the driveshaft wasn't loose(having play at the yokes). At $122 a pop ($366 for the rear shaft) they should last longer than 70,000 miles. I have searched and searched and can't find anyone who has aftermarket joints... . much less greaseable joints. I took one of the old joint caps and did finally manage to drill through it and tap it for a zerk fitting but that's a lots of work. When I installed the new u-joints I put extra "marine" grease in the caps... . it's blue and thick like wheel bearing grease. Hopefully these will last a little longer. I just thought I would rant about a high dollar product that doesn't hold up, but then again everything nowadays is expensive and very rarely lasts that long.

 

[MCornwell]

What ever became of the smoking problem?



-Mitch

 

[Big_H316]

Still smokes like a champ. Haven't had time to get that looked at. Hopefully next week sometime... . I think it's an injector problem.

 

[BRayls]

ac/delco 45U 0304 is the joint for the rear shaft (if it is the two piece). that is the heavy duty greasable joint,still waiting on mine to arrive. but was told by the local shop they have zirks in the caps. they also list one for the guys that do not want greasable joints. ohh yeah less than 50 bucks all three joints for the rear shaft.

 

[realsquash]

I have searched and searched and can't find anyone who has aftermarket joints... . much less greaseable joints.

I put aftermarket greasable ones in my truck months ago. Real beefy critters, too. They were all of $19 or so each.



Andy

 

[rbattelle]

I put aftermarket greasable ones in my truck months ago. Real beefy critters, too. They were all of $19 or so each.



Andy

Which ones??? The AC/Delco ones? You can't just leave us hanging like that!!



-Ryan

 

[realsquash]

I've attached some spiffy pix of my installation. My truck has 1480 series ujoints, NAPA/precision part number 351. There are two slight design variations with this joint that I've found. The difference is the raised bumps on the cross near the caps. They are just different enough to prevent installing the cross into the empty yoke in the driveshaft. They were actually $22. 99 each and damned near all the NAPAs I called had them in stock.



As you can see in one of the pix I had to file the inside edge of the hole for one of the caps so the cross would fit through. It's barely anything and it will not compromise the strength of the yoke.



Questions?



Andy

 

[FDavid]

What are the symptoms of the u joints going out? My truck starts to vibrate really bad when slowing down to about 15 mph and less and squeeks on take off. Are those symptoms of u joints failing?



thanx

dave

 

[Mad Bomber]

U Joints

What are the symptoms of the u joints going out? My truck starts to vibrate really bad when slowing down to about 15 mph and less and squeeks on take off. Are those symptoms of u joints failing?



thanx

dave

Sounds like they are dieing fast

 

[FDavid]

Sounds like they are dieing fast

LOL alrighty then. Thanx for the help, thats what I thought it might be. Pretty damn pathetic that the truck doesnt even have 30k miles on it :{

 

[Mad Bomber]

LOL alrighty then. Thanx for the help, thats what I thought it might be. Pretty damn pathetic that the truck doesnt even have 30k miles on it :{

I'd make sure to get the solid one and NOT the greasable type because our trucks have so much torque it will twist them right off.

 

[Casey Balvert]

Andy, let me get this straight, there are two variations of the #351 joint? When ordering how can we be sure that we get the right one? Or do you just go through the stock and pick what you need. Mad Bomber, are you saying the cross drilled spiders will not stand up to a stock engine? Are the drive shafts for the 2WD the same as the 4WD trucks? So many questions. If I can find the proper joints I think I will just replace them. Towing heavy I don't want to take the chance of getting stuck somewhere.



Casey

 

[_Hyde]

Been here done this unfortunately. I went back with the OE part but did add some grease, they are little light on the grease out of the box. Ironically my friend's Excursion had one go out right about the time mine did but his was at 76k vs my 43k, not good for the phord vs Dodge argument. His was inadequate lube as well. He got his part at Auto Zone for $10 and distrubingly enough I got a good deal on mine at $89. He's got power juiced up pretty good so he's probably going to twist it right off since it has the zerk. Next one I replace if a greasable one is available that's what I will be going with. I'm more concerned with lubrication since that is what I've seen as being the problem with these. The torque issue can be minimized by installing the cross where its under compression, not tension, while travelling forward.



Hyde

 

[rbattelle]

ac/delco 45U 0304 is the joint for the rear shaft (if it is the two piece). that is the heavy duty greasable joint,still waiting on mine to arrive. but was told by the local shop they have zirks in the caps. they also list one for the guys that do not want greasable joints. ohh yeah less than 50 bucks all three joints for the rear shaft.

I'll be VERY interested to see if this one fits without modification... I hope it does. If it's a fit I'll order several to keep as spares.

 

[BRayls]

I hope it does their book shows it as the replacement. I am told (from ac)the weakness is caused from the zirk being threaded into the cross ?? we'll see. should be in monday.

 

[rbattelle]

I hope it does their book shows it as the replacement. I am told (from ac)the weakness is caused from the zirk being threaded into the cross ?? we'll see. should be in monday.

I have always been told that the grease fitting in the cross is a source of failure of the joint, and for heavy-duty applications you need to have the fitting in the cap.

 

[realsquash]

There are no non-greasable 1480 ujoints available. There are a lot of 1350 ungreasable ones. I use the Brute Force jobs on my off-road trucks. The greaseable ones are not going to twist off or break or any of that in our trucks. If you have a 1500 lb-ft pulling truck that's a different story.



The only way I know of getting the correct style joint is by looking at them. I have one in the garage, I'll go take a pic and post it.



Andy

 

[realsquash]

I'll be VERY interested to see if this one fits without modification... I hope it does. If it's a fit I'll order several to keep as spares.

That is a generic 1350 series ujoint that millions of vehicles used. Hardly anything uses a 1480. I believe the two-piece rear driveshafts use 1350's on these trucks but I can't verify that because, well, I don't have one



Andy

 

[Mad Bomber]

U Joint's

Mad Bomber, are you saying the cross drilled spiders will not stand up to a stock engine? Are the drive shafts for the 2WD the same as the 4WD trucks?

Casey

I guess to a stock they will BUT our trucks have more torque than a average truck does. If you ever plan on adding more power it WILL be a issue. Do you really want to find out the hard way and in the wrong place in the middle of no where?I belive the drive lines are pretty much the same too.

 

[4xquadrod]

Regrease

I have a buddy that engineers semi trucks, he told me to use joints with no grease fittings and repack the bearings with a heavy synthetic grease. The assembly plants just use a light grease that doesn't hold up well.