2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission D60 repair in progress...a few ?s

[Clinton]

I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints, u joints, and hopefully both seals on the front D60 axle. I ordered my parts and a couple of tools from Dan 'the gear man' at Quad 4x4. Dan told me the diff on my axle would likely come right out for the driver's side seal, but it doesn't want to budge. Here's a couple of questions:



1. Anybody have any hints for getting the diff out of the housing short of buying a case spreader?



2. One of the little bolts holding the vacuum shift motor on the axle tube sheered off below the head. I was able to pull the motor no problem and I've got a good 6 mm or so of bolt to grab on to, but I don't want to lose anymore and break it flush to the tube. I'm thinking penetrant, heat, and careful use of the vice grips. Anybody have any hints for getting that bolt out? What kind of bolt (material-wise) should I replace it with? What I mean is will a grade 8 bolt's plating be dissimilar to the axle tube material and cause it to seize again?



3. Should I clean and paint the knuckles?



Thanks.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Want the diff out? Rent a spreader. It's by far the easiest method of removal. If it falls out, it has lost all of the bearing preload. Usually, I can rotated an old one out with a small prybar and rotating one wheel with the other on the ground. You must be careful to not overspread the case and a dial indicator on the housing is a must.



Regarding the bolt, spray a penetrating spray in there, grab on really, really tight with vice grips, apply a little pressure, then use a small, blunt pungh to tap the end of the bolt. This will usually work. If not, don't fight it, center punch it and drill it out.



Painting the knuckles is not required, but I agree, it's looks much, much better. I would do it just for the looks and lack of rust color. But you don't have to.



Dave

 

[JPittinger]

Any suggestions for where to rent a spreader? I have to rebearing a Dana70.

Thx, JJ

 

[Fishin Guide]

Locally, our general rental yards usually have them. Some auto/ specialty stores also rent tools.



I can't stress enough to not overspread the housing. You'll need the spreader to set the preload on the new bearings anyway. If you are reusing the ring and pinion (not disturbing the pinion, take a backlash reading with you dial indicator and note it. I like to check the gear pattern at this time as well in order to get a baseline.



Then you can assemble it around these specs.



Dave

 

[ndurbin]

I just recently pulled my differential out and put it back in. It came out with alittle encouragement from a pry bar but a case spreader would have been better putting it back in than the method we used.



I'd replace all 4 of the bolts that hold the vaccuum motor on with grade 8's and put alittle anti-seize on them when going back together. As for getting the broken stud out there are several ways, but try soaking it down acouple times well before you try to pull it out with some WD40 or something similar, then use the vise grips on the stud. If that doesn't work try using heat.



Nathan

 

[Dane]

Broken bolts

I've had the best results using Kroil penetrating oil and then welding a washer to the bolt. The heat of welding seems to help break the rust bond.



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[Clinton]

Well... I'm thinking I'll just do the ball joints and u joints and take it to the local 4x4 shop for the alignment and let them do the seals. I could do the passenger's side, but then my seal installer would be used and I wouldn't feel right about returning it to Quad 4x4. I'm in a small town and renting a spreader would require a trip to at least Santa Fe or more likely Albuquerque which would delay the task.



I did get a good tip from a guy at the local 4x4 shop. He said, 'I bet you've got it up on two jack stands at the outside ends of the tube. ' I said, 'yep. ' He went on to say that that can put the diff under enough compression to keep it from coming out. I tried jacking the case and a couple of other points to relieve the stress, but it was still tight in the case. That tells me it'll be a pain to get back in and seated. Oh well, learn something new all the time. Thanks for the help.