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Archived Running rough, throwing codes

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Need help guys, I finally got around to rebuilding the D80 last night. (i blew up the spider gears a few weeks ago. ) anyway, I installed the new spiders, and new clutches (factory LS). Now, this thing is so dang tight that when turning corners, it chirps the tires, like a locked or welded rearend. I dont mind it being a little tighter than stock, but this is crazy! I need to know it I should tear it apart right away and remove a clutch plate, or will it "break in"? Also, I talked to a few people and the general consensous was that my rear originally was put together wrong (clutches) and that I should change it.



here is an example (might have the wrong number of plates, i am just going from memory now)...



IE:

Clutch Plate = +

Clutch Disk = -

Spacer = =

Splined spider gear = *



how it was originally set up...



+

+

+

+

+

-

-

-

+

-

+

-

=

*



My understanding is that it should be installed like this



+

+

-

+

-

+

-

+

-

+

-

+

=

*
 
The original way is the way it was from the factory. The way you put it back together is going to have twice as many friction surfaces as the original. Did you add friction modifier. Did you do about 20 figure 8s to break it in?

Doug
 
drrhoades said:
The original way is the way it was from the factory. The way you put it back together is going to have twice as many friction surfaces as the original. Did you add friction modifier. Did you do about 20 figure 8s to break it in?

Doug



I did add the modifer, but I did not do the figure 8's, I will go do that later and see if that helps. Is there any chance that it will loosen up, or am I going to be screwed and have to take it apart... again? Dont feel like throwing out 4 qts of Amsoil gear oil!
 
From what I've read here I agree w/drrhoades in respect to the figure 8s to distribute the lube and mix the friction modifyer. I've also read that if after the 8s some more modifier may be needed if no improvement is noticed. However, I recommend waiting for a few more "seasoned folks" to reply that have performed similar repairs. I recall someone a while back stating that if things weren't right that doing the 8s could damage things. Not trying to scare you, just trying to help and keep you from having to tear down again and/or worse off find something broken. You'll get it right, keep us posted - good luck.
 
Thanks guys... .



Also, just figured out somthing... . I accidently added a additional clutch disk per side. Not thinking I was comparing the two packs, the new and old, and counting, I must have mixed up and added two disks to the new pack... one per side. so, yeah, tht would also explain why its so damn tight!



Guess i will be tearing it apart and pulling those two disks if ya'll think it wont loosen up! :(
 
I would like to think that I am somewhat "seasoned" seeing as how I work for Dana's Technical Service Department answering questions and working on these axles all day. Alphacowboy check your PM.



Doug



Well I quess that should loosen things up!
 
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The original configuration was done by dodge to allow the rear end to slip a little. the weight of the truck is so much lighter than the trucks that the D80 was originally designed for that it losks up like you are experiencing. If you were to change it back it should work like yu want. If you want it a little tighter arrange the disc somewhere between the two ways.
 
Soak the friction plates in oil prior to assembly, this should help with the break-in and insure thye are lubed in this non-pressurized envirnoment, similar to clutches in a motorcycle.
 
Eric_77 said:
Soak the friction plates in oil prior to assembly, this should help with the break-in and insure thye are lubed in this non-pressurized envirnoment, similar to clutches in a motorcycle.





thats what I was worried about! I forgot to lube them up before I put it all together. Should I try the figure 8 thing to try and get some lube in-between the disks? or should I just tke it apart. I just dont feel like ripping it all apart again. I dont mine it a little aggressive, as it would be nice for offroading, but I dont need to wreck my tires, let along the embarising looks when I turn corners. (chirp, chirp, chirp... . :eek: )
 
The issue with not lubing the clutch packs before install is that the material will destroy itself against one another before the lube has a chance to work itself in there. Now since it has already been run you may be alright and will have only shortened the life alittle.



I quess the question is did you take the extra parts out yet? If you haven't then you should because it will not loosen up.



Once you get everything apart soak the plates and disk in the friction modifier for 20 minutes a piece ( you can stick them all in there as long as there is lube on each surface). Put it back together and do the figure 8's and you should be good to go.



Doug
 
haha, i just called you! but thanks! I havent tore it apart yet. I will do that again tonight :( oh well, dummy me. Gotta learn somehow, i just usually take the hard way :(



thanks again!
 
After you remove the extra plates, reassemble it like youe did (plate/clutch order). Don't add the whole bottle of friction modifier, add it 1 ounce at a time. Go out and do several figure 8's between adding each ounce, you could even drive it a day to work it in.



As for not lubing the plates before install, if my memory serves me the clutches have grooves in them. They would have been lubed enough when the diff was filled. The concern I'd have now is whether or not you compressed the belville washers that provide the spring load against the plate assemblies. It might be worth either comparing them to new ones (or used ones) or just replacing them, they should be fairly cheap.
 
Wish I had read this thread a month ago! Mine grinds and will need to be redone is the order that Alphacowboy said a good one or a combo of the two and what arrangement is the combo?



Jared
 
Wish I had read this thread a month ago! Mine grinds and will need to be redone is the order that Alphacowboy said a good one or a combo of the two and what arrangement is the combo?



Jared



jared, the combo it was zip tied in is the factory setup. If your not wanting an aggressive Limited Slip, leave them be in that order, if you want a more aggressive limited slip, then go for the stack I posted above.
 
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