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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Damn Brakes!!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) throttle

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Hi OK I have had it with the brakes on my 99' 2500. No matter what i freekin do they allways have a pull. I have replaced the slides and the bolts twice, tried all sorts of different grease, and no ,matter what I do I allways get one to stick and I develop a damn brake pull. I want a long term solution to this as this truck is driving me up a wall! Does anyone know of a front brake upgrade or better caliper grease or slides that will solve this?????



Thanks, Travis
 
First, make sure your rear brakes are adjusted. I think you have drums in back and if they aren't adjusted right the front pull will be worse.

I replaced the fronts with the EGR setup: rotors, blueprinted calipers, Kevlar pads and steel lines. Used their grease and a 3m disk on angle air grinder to really polish mating surfaces. Also did rear drums with EGR hardware and shoes with oversize wheel cylinders. I have good brakes! The rears even self adjust now. Total was about $1500 to do everything but I can stop with hands loose on the whell from 60+ w/o any real pulling.
 
Cummins360,

Replace all the flex hoses, most likely if you've done everything else you have one that has collapsed internally and is keeping that brake slightly applied even when you have you foot off the brake pedal. While you're there flush all the old brake fluid and do a good belleding job. Been there and this has always done the trick before for me. Good luck.

Mark @ DPPI



After much frustration :{ , it turned out to be the passenger side flex hose on my 98.

I ended up spending $1100. 00 for a $90. 00 repair :--) .



Harry
 
I replaced the flex hoses, but every time I re-lubricate the slides it stops then it will come back and when i take apart the slides one or both of them are stuck. i have just had enough of this, I am probably going to buy EGR calipers or something.
 
get the synthetic grease from EGR, works great and lasts over a year. The area on the calipers needing the clean/lube are the sliding surfaces where caliper assembly comes in contact with mount hardware. Lubing just the pins won't help that much.

I did the EGR upgrade because I needed brakes and the passenger side rotor was ruined. Lot of money but have been running over 3 years and no problems. I have recleaned and lube the brakes once since installing, about a year ago.
 
I had a pull to the drivers side after about half pedal pressure, before and after a brake job. Replaced the passenger caliper ($33) and found metal shaving in the banjo, new one on and stops perfect!
 
I put the larger rear wheel cylinders on and adjusted the rear brakes and it helps alot. Also put on severe duty slotted and drilled front rotors with new severe duty calipers and haven't had a problem since. This has been at least 50k miles ago. Did change the front pads once since then.



I think most of the problem is the amount of heat generated in the front brakes because of the lack of rear braking. The larger rear cylinders help get the rear brakes to actually do something.
 
Buddy of mine made a turnbuckle on his rear proportioning vlve over the axle to add or reduce brake pressure to the rear. had a problem when loaded and had airbags aired to level the truck. truck thinks it was unloaded beacause it was level.
 
I disconnected my ABS and got rear brakes. I have a 99 with the rear wheel ABS system. After having that damn setup disconnect the rear brakes and having my gooseneck push me through an intersection I had it and disconnected the power supply to the abs computer. It no longer cuts loose on emergency stops. To get the dash light to turn off I had to remove the bulb though. Unloaded no trailer it stops a lot better too without the abs. On ice and such it is a lot more predictable too. No more front lock up and rear completely free.



But mine does haul azz to left everytime I hit the brakes. And my front left wheel always has more brake dust on it. I have replaced the calipers, now its time to replace the lines. Stainless braided are the way to go. I have run them for years on my Jeep that has stupid big tires and they work great with none of the collapsing issues of rubber lines.



Does your truck pull when your just going down the road? If it does and the tires are wearing evenly you have alignment issues. I have this problem and what it is, is that the inner knuckles of the front axle were not welded on evenly clocked. Your caster angle http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

is off between the sides of the vehicle. I have not tried to fix it with adjustable ball joints yet but I think that is a major part of the pulling under braking problem. A good alignment shop may be able to set you up with what you need.
 
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I used to have a lot of trouble with this also. One thing I did was to run a file and sand paper on all the sliding surfaces of the calipers and the caliper supports. I then lube it all up with copper anti-sieze and it seems to work pretty well. I use a special high temp brake grease on the pins. I unhooked the linkage on the rear hight sensing valve and zip tied it in the open possision and this helped my braking power a lot. Be carefull with this one though if you run empty. I personally have air bags (thus the problem with the valve) and when I have a full load of fuel in the aux. tank the truck is near it's GVWR of 8,800#.
 
Hi I would like to disconnect the rear abs also but if you disconnected the abs computer then you would have no speedo as the abs comp runs that??????
 
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