2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dana 70 rear end.

[PVanderlugt]

Hello all, truck in signature below.

Bought truck 3 years ago, no limited slip in back, ended up having one put in after first winter season. Not too happy with installer, don't want to go back.

After install, rear axle seals leaking, drained axle, sealed axle and put Amsoil back in (had Mobil 1 for 1000 miles ) Ever since then never quiet right.

Seems to bind most of the time, (not always) in turns, specially to the right. Tires are well worn now and it is a lot more noticable then a year ago. Almost impossible to make a turn and accelerate without breaking rear end loose.

Amsoil was supposed to not need additive, added some more anyway and tried to see if better, it is not.

Probably have 5 times required amount of additive in there and still binds.

Checked drag on clutches per manual, 125 ft/lbs, seems a little high, but within limits (30-200 ft/lbs heck of a range)

Local 4wd place wants $350 to inspect,does not replace/restack cluches, only replace whole unit.

Have factory manual, have some questions.

If I would pull unit out myself, redo/stack cluches would I need to re-shim the gears??(afraid of that one)

Any special tools required for this job? Have normal tools and decent mechanic skills, doable ? Any different way to stack clutches then manual? Where to buy clutches? Any comments or suggestions?



Pete



PS, would it be posible that with the fast move to Amsoil (1000 MIles)

that with the full synthetic oil it never did break in very well and this could be part of problem?

 

[BDaugherty]

It would be very easy for you to remove the differential and inspect it. In fact, depending on what limited slip you had installed, it could be very easy to take apart. The factory Dodge D70 limited slip is a Powr-Loc. It's super easy to take apart and put back together. Also, if it's too agressive, you can easily restack the clutches to make it more civilized. On a Dana 70 differential, the shims for setting backlash are between the carrier bearings and the differential carries so that all you have to do is remove the carrier and split it in half by unbolting it. I rebuilt one a couple years ago and the directions said the soak the clutches and steels in friction modifier over night prior to assembly. I didn't do that. If you want it to be more civil, restack it so that there is less clutch to steel contact by putting two clutches together instead of having a steel between them. That way you end up with the same overall thickness, but less surface area for friction. If you don't have a powr-lock, I don't really know what to tell you. I've only taken apart trac-locs, powr-locs, and some full lockers.

 

[B KIRK]

What kind of limited slip was installed?

Dana/Spicer Powr-Lok is factory in a 70 series.

If it is a Powr-Lok, you can remove it and reinstall/restack the clutches without having to reset any shims on the carrier bearings.

HERE is a link to a page that shows how to stack the clutches to different torque ratings.



Randy's ring & pinion is a good place to buy the clutches.



If a locker like a Detroit was installed, none of this applies.

They are not adjustable.



Since some trucks come with synthetic fluid from the factory, I doubt that has anything to do with your problem.



Brad

 

[B KIRK]

BDaugherty, looks like I was typing at the same time as you.

Sorry about that.



Brad

 

[PVanderlugt]

Thanks guy's it is the factory powr-lock that was installed. Makes me feel a little better that I don't have to mess with the shims.
Any special tools required to do this?? Kinda looking foreward to this project now.
Pete