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Dana 80 broken

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Long time no see! I haven’t modified or had a problem with my truck in years and faded away from the forum. Good to see many of the same members still posting.

My Dad sent me these pictures of his 2001 3500, auto, disc brake, rear axle.
Now I have so many questions...
Over tight bearings/lack of lube led heat, to hub nut coming loose, to bearing destruction, to axle breaking?

^regardless, 2001-2001 disc brake axles are hard to find and expensive. What axle housings will swap in?
Will disc brake hub bolt on to 3500 drum axle?
Will 3500 disc hub bolt onto 2500 disc axle?
Are V-8, V-10, D80 housings the same?

I’m taking a trip from SoCal to Big Bend/Del Rio, so if you know of an axle along the I-10 corridor I’d appreciate the info.


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Just for clarification... Are you wanting to swap in a rear disc 80 in the place of a drum 80? If so, dont bother. Not only is it not worth it but it also requires some brake component swapping as well. The Dana 80 rear drums are not weak, but do require making sure they remain adjusted by not letting the star adjuster get corroded. If corrosion is a problem where you live then the 2nd gen discs will corrode and stick on you anyways.

The image of discs being superior is more a marketing scheme...
 
I am a FIRM believer having rear disk brakes on a 2nd gen. My 01 brakes were great even before upgrading to 3rd gen fronts and all new EBC Rotors and pads. Braking is insane!

My 98 had drums, did all the upgrades with bigger wheel cylinders and removing the proportioning valve. Brakes were better but NOT good.
 
The early 2nd gens had smaller weaker brakes. 2000 on up were the better brakes and all manual transmission 2500, and all 3500, had the larger brakes.
My 2500 has the same brakes as the 3500 came with. And my stock style brakes will bring this 4 ton truck to a very abrupt stop if I need it to.
That said, the hydroboost system health is directly related to the performance of the brakes too. So a struggling hydroboost system will result in a weak braking system forcing the driver to exert more pedal pressure. Keeping the PS clean and run synthetic is important.....but most people never even bother to look at the PS fluid.
 
"but most people never even bother to look at the PS fluid."

So true!!! In 2001 I started using Valvoline Synthetic on my 98 and then changed to AMZ/OIL and now using that in my 01 Sport.
 
I don't have the specs in front of me, but I think the axle shafts are the same on the D80 duallies… a quick measure of overall length and a quick comparison would tell you if they'll swap. I think they're all 35 spline. As for what caused that, I'd say lack of quality lubricant. The wear in the races points to it running roughly for quite a while, dictating a lack of oil. That's a pretty serious failure, and should have given quite a bit of warning.
 
During my travels I found a used axle from a “running & driving” truck in El Paso. If they were driving it, they were crabbing down the road with 1/2” of toe out on the drivers side
Dads bringing it to a frame & axle shop in Fresno today to see if it can be straightened...

JMcCoy, yes the housing was torn up, zero threads remaining on stub for wheel bearing/hub nut to attach to.
Katoom, I wasn’t looking for disc upgrade, just compatible parts to get dads truck back on the road.

I’ll be doing installation so lube and bearing clearance will be correct.
 
There are people out there that can rebuild that axle while on the truck. Talk with some trucking co for information or try this https://www.unitedaxle.com/
Funny you posted that...
Junk yard axle housing was bent beyond being able to be straightened. Searching harder for options I found Axle Al in Ontario, CA. They were able to cut off spindle, turn axle tube, press in new spindle.

Bent axle sent back, axle repair was cheapest than used axle, dads on road and happy.
 
Funny you posted that...
Junk yard axle housing was bent beyond being able to be straightened. Searching harder for options I found Axle Al in Ontario, CA. They were able to cut off spindle, turn axle tube, press in new spindle.

Bent axle sent back, axle repair was cheapest than used axle, dads on road and happy.

It's great to hear you got good results from an axle surgeon. I've heard about pros like that. It takes some serious skill to be able to repair a spindle so badly destroyed, as your dads was and to be able to do it on the truck without removing the entire differential. wow. Comon that's total rock star performance and skill.

Agree with other posts on this thread, keep an eye on your oil level. An axle shaft does not suddenly shear off for no reason. It's blue and weakened from heat. It must have given some warning noise and grinding. The failed bearing caused the axle shaft to heat up.
 
I would be leery of doing such axle repairs while its still on the truck because axle alignment is critical for bearing wear and longevity. For this reason, when doing anything extensive which involves removing or moving bearing surfaces then its best to remove the differential and all internal components and use a jig to assure everything remains aligned. In a pinch if you're stranded on the road is acceptable but certainly not what I'd suggest as normal...
 
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